bluemetals2k

What numbers did you dyno with the tvs900 vs the mp62 sot blower? Happen to have a dyno overlay?!? Sorry if I missed it in another thread. Your posting so many...lol

wadzii

If it drives fine the afr at part throttle can vary quite a bit and not make any difference.

the bypass open or closed shouldnt make any difference in the tune, with haltech all that matters is manifold pressure. open/closed loop shouldnt make any difference, if you use it, you get the tune spot on then turn on closed loop. Closed loop is not there to make up for a shit tune.

s2000Junky

If im not mistake, vader said the car doesn’t run fine, it stutters, which at 17afr it would for sure. That’s annoying.

Why would the bypass valve not make a difference, if you’re getting boost in an area of the fuel curve the tuner can’t seem to isolate and tune properly, how is that not effecting anything?? Boost and no boost effects the fuel tune. So go around it, change when the boost comes in... move the threshold, isolate a different part of the tune that you can pinpoint. It may be preferd to pinpoint it as is, but sometimes you have to get creative if after 2 attempts it isnt being isolated in its current state.

The point is the tune isnt spot on and the tuner can’t seem to get it there... so looking at open/closed loop transition should be part of the conversation to explore as one of the tools to resolve.

In my experience, all of these things need to be in alignment, calibrated right to work together to create a seamless and reliable tune. Maybe they are and the tuner is just inept. But im giving the benefit of the doubt and offering up some of what I think are pertinent aspects that can effect the symptoms being described.

What is your solution to this problem wazii?

vader1

Tuner seems to agree open/closed loop transition needs to be tinkered with. You know, I don't get the sense he does not know what he is doing, I get the sense his shop is overbooked, he is overworked and is trying to get everything done without enough time.

It is not stuttering or buck when lean, it would do that when it was rich, but the rich correction now switched to lean. If I could drive it all the time with my foot to the floor it would be super smooth, but needs work when you do an aprubt transintion to heavy throttle, it blips lean then goes to where it should and takes off, and then the light throttle lean condition. Fix those two and the long cranking time and it would pretty much be there.

Bluemetals, dynoing was fairly unsuccessful because it made about 300 at ~6800 rpm and then goes flat, wont take any more timing or fuel. It has done this on a few different dynos with different tuners since I have had the kit. You don't feel it from behind the wheel,if you did not dyno you'd never know, but you see it clearly on the graph. It will hit about 300whp at around 6800-7000 rpm and not go higher even though it still revs to 9k. But it looks like if it made power like anyone else with this roots system in a straight line it would end up in the 330-340 range on the TVS. I am pulling my hair out with the flat line though. I have replaced cat, coils,plugs, gap, sensors, injectors. Fuel pressure seems to be there, oil pressure, etc. For some reason some unique malady with my machine is causing the car to get backed up at either that RPM or power level.

Have ruled out valve float or spark blow out because you can not feel anything, valve float would be really strange at only 300hp, and plugs and gaps have been tried to death. Tuner suspects exhaust restriction, but can't see anything on my stock exhuast or find anybody who believes it is so clogged it wont make more than 300 but gonna try that next anyway because I like to throw away money. VTEC engages, but I am going to check that next top make sure it is staying engaged. I don't think my valve clearance is off. Compression is perfect, leakdown just fine. PWR intercooler is supposed to be good to well over 400hp and on the hottest days is cool to the touch after a long drive..

But I can not answer the question, does power stop building/boost starts climbing :

a) because of timing retard from something causing knock

or

b) because there is a restricion in the valve train or exhaust that the boost is backing up.

If anyone finds the answer for me I will give them a jillion dollars and they win S2000 genius of the century. It is not tune related.

Tuner claims if I can find out what is causing it to start knocking, there should be plenty of timing and fuel to add back in. Before it falls flat it looks like 340whp, where the old MP62 looked like 315whp before going flat so I do think this blower allows for more power due to efficiency. Whether it is worth the $2k and fiddling around for SOT kit owners I guess that is up to them, but I think it will make more power at the same boost level. If it could go higher than 340, won't know until I can track down this bug. I'd be very happy with 330whp and a safe smooth tune. I want to get it sorted out because I am not getting the full potential of what I paid for and I plan to sell the car in a couple years and don't want to pass the mystery on to someone else.

I guess I need to make a list of things that would make the car knock at high rpm and try to check them off but

carbon (don't think so, will try some more cleaning product just for giggles)
exhaust restriction (don't think so but trying that next)
valvetrain restriction (can't possible imagine what it would be unless VTEC is disengaging at 7000)
poor gas (93 octane every time, should take more timing)
high intake temps (not seeing it on the computer)

then I start to run out of ideas. It is pretty much a babied low miler and that makes it even more frustrating. When on boost, man is that blower smooth, I just love it, but something in the car is keeping it from full potential.