Hi All, had some troubles with my car this weekend looking for some feedback on where to go next before I start buying/swapping parts.

Background info:
Car is a 2001 Ap1 with approx 48k miles.
I bought it used and it already had the Comptech Supercharger installed.
Was told that the kit was installed by the Honda dealership and installed when the car was brand new.
Supercharger is an original non aftercooled N1000 kit using only the ESM and fuel pressure regulator for "tuning".
Only other mods are High flow cat and Exhaust.
Car is a garage queen, only driven during the summer weekends, and in storage for winter (New England)

More Recently:
I had some misfire/bogging issues back in 2013. This was solved at a shop who has done work for me in the past. They replaced all 4 injectors, new plugs, and did a valve adjustment which fixed the problems. Car ran fine for the past 2 years until now.

A few weeks back I got a CEL that came on randomly while cruising. It cleared itself and went away, i assumed this was emissions or gas cap related. I also began to notice some rough idle on cold start. You could hear popping in the exhaust more than ususal, and the motor would stumble a bit until warmed up. I dont drive it that often so I didnt think anything of it. One day after a drive I could smell fuel, popped the hood and saw that I started to develop a leak in the braided fuel line from the aftermarket FPR. This weekend took out the FPR and replaced the line with a new braided hose. I checked the internals for any debris, and made sure everything was clean. I did not touch the adjustment screw to change the settings. Upon restart the rough idle was worse. I took a short trip and the CEL came back. I limped to Autozone and scanned the codes and got this:

P0301, 0302, 0303, 0304, 1399,0300, All Misfire codes.

I spent a few hours on Sunday reading the "Misfire Thread" with no definite direction. Also this a is a modified car so I don't think the same rules apply.
I'm assuming this is fuel related since that was the last thing I touched, but have concerns there is a separate issue that was just made worse. Do the aftermarket FPRs with these kits go bad over time? Should i buy a new one and see if that goes away? The fact that the injectors are new and the valve adjustment was done 3k miles ago can I rule those out? I have gone through at least 3-4 tanks of gas this summer, so I don's think its bad fuel.

Looking for some insight or other things to troubleshoot before I start throwing parts at this trying to solve the problem.

Thanks!

 

The one time I had the same issue it was actually from a clogged FPR, but I have a 2006 with the returnless system, and the FPR is in the fuel tank. It got clogged with some kind of greenish rustish looking substance. The end result was I was getting higher fuel pressures and had to keep adjusting my injector times till they hit a cut off and would then give a misfire code. I cleaned out my FPR, I set my injector times back to normal, and the car hasn't misfired since. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on your FPR?

 

They can go bad and comptech will rebuild one for 150 I believe. Was the new braided line you got the same diameter as the original one?

 

To answer questions:

1 - No, I don't have a gauge on it. When I had the injectors replaced the shop I used put a temp gauge on, and "reset" the FPR per the original Comptech manual.I have not touched it prior to replacing the hose. As part of this Im considering buying a new FPR, fuel rail, and pressure gauge setup.

2 - That's good to know, although for that price I could buy a brand new unit most likely. Yes the hose is the same size. I bought a 6ft piece of braided AN hose and cut to length, reusing the old fittings. I brought the old one to the parts store to match it up before doing anything.

My master plan is upgrade the kit entirely and go to the new KraftWerks kit. I want to at least get this up and running again so I can enjoy the car until I have cash saved for a new kit.

 

do you have a wideband?

 

no wideband, or any gauges whatsoever. I know i probably should, but these kits run very low boost and I thought they were pretty much plug and play. Car has run strong for 48k miles in its current state.

 

no you need a wideband very important. the rrfpr is very inconsistent and requires periodic adjustment to keep air/fuel ratio in safe zone my guess is the pressure has dropped. they are a bad design the piston is prone to sticking and the aluminum seat get small dents from fuel pressure giving the fuel an easy path to the tank. you can take them apart and hammer it flat grease the piston and restore the pressure but best to get an e manage or standalone with proper sized injectors read up and educate yourself its in your best interest. that way you don't hurt your motor

 

Just updating in case others come across this. Turned out to be a bad injector.

 

still need a wideband i have had the stainless piston in the rrfpr stick and if i hadn't had the wideband it would have run lean. the previous owner ran the car for over 50k miles with no gauges and detonated the f20c to death due to the rrfpr the car now has an f22c . just sayin

 

I agree, I basically needed to repair it so the car was drive-able again. Its going in storage this weekend for the winter. If all goes according to plan next spring it will be getting a new S/C, EMS, and all the supporting mods.