Novi 1200 CT-E Kit Contact With Front Cross Beam
 

Hey guys,

I have a 2007 Honda S2000 with a CT-Engineering supercharger kit with a novi 1200 blower. I'm having a contact issue with the blower & the front portion of the cross member, only under situations with a lot of front loading (braking or quick accel let-off). This causes a rattle/vibration under those front loading situations. There is no contact when the car is static, but the clearance is very small (~2 mm) and a lot less than what is shown in the picture below.

I've rechecked all bolts mounting the blower & mounting bracket to the engine & I have brand new OEM engine mounts, so I don't think those are factors at this point. Have other folks run into this same issue and have a solution?

**not a photo of my setup. It is a screengrab from a novi1000 setup and the clocking of the blower seems incorrect. Purely using the photo for reference**

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...87f7ffe553.png

Looks like an old novi 1000 to me not a 1200. On those old kits it requires you to bend the lip of the cross member just under the oil return line to provide clearance there, however not under the blower itself. It doesn't looked clocked properly based on the picture. That volute should be parallel with the cross member not pointing up at an angle.

I should have mentioned that the photo is not of my setup. It is a screengrab from a novi1000 setup and the clocking does seem incorrect. Purely used the photo for reference. Apologies for the confusion.

I've bent the aft portion of the cross beam to clear the oil drain hose, but the instructions do not mention the forward portion.

Ahh ok. Well then, that really only leaves the motor mounts sagging, or the sub frame is tweaked somehow. Possibly the bushings/steel inserts that hold the blower mounting plate are all clapped out/worn and its causing blower to be sagging/misaligned in some way. Not sure what else it could be other then the blower isn't clocked perfectly. There isn't much room, but if you have a coupler and hose clamp oriented poorly, it may be rubbing on the cross member, rather then the blower itself. Look at things carefully. About all I got for you. Good luck.

I do have spoon rigid collars, but lowering the subframe by the thickness of that collar still doesn't clear the beam by that much. I'll recheck the metal bushing to see if it's fully seated in the mounting bracket holes. That seems more likely the culprit. Thanks for the tip.

I had the same problem a few years ago. How long has yours been installed? After about 25k miles (really guessing here) I found that the bottom bushings were embedding themselves in the back side of the mounting bracket, causing the whole blower assembly to sag. I was able to find some washers at the hardware store that had exact matching diameter as the bushings, and was able to re-position the assembly. It worked really well, until about another 25k miles later, the corner of the mounting bracket broke at the pulley arm tensioner bolt. Whether that's related to bushing problem is debatable. So I finally had someone I know at work mill an entire new bracket. Moral of the story is, these parts seem to wear out after a few thousand miles. Or at least that has been my experience.

Oh and while we're on the subject, has anyone been able to get ahold of ct-engineering? I want to replace the silicone couplers and the pulley wheel. I have left 3 voice mails, and a few other times the VM box was full. I wrote them about 3 emails asking for specific part numbers. They just will not get back to me. Anyone have a name/extension that works?

Its been my experience in the past that they are almost always hard to get a hold of, but you will eventually if you keep at it each day. They seem to be bad at returning calls, so you sort of have to catch them at the phone when you call.

Silicone couplers can be found anywhere. Order off ebay, Amazon or where ever. 3" is the diameter If I recall. Blower pulley? Or idle/tension pulley?

Yes I realize silicone couplers are all over. I like the ones CT makes because they are thin walled. The couplers are the biggest pita as far as getting everything taken apart and back together again. A typical (1/4"?) thick wall would make this even less pleasurable. I may have found a site with thin-walled couplers but I will have to go back and check... fixing the car and heckling CT is not priority right now, as I have better (fun) things to work on. And sorry, I was referring to the idler/tensioner pulley. It is simple enough to buy a matching bearing, but they fuse it right into the pulley plastic. I'm not messing around with grinding/heating/whatever to replace it, so they sort of require you buy the whole wheel. Luckily they don't force you to buy the arm as well.