flanders

Yes oem is just a pressure switch and you can run without it and loose the dash light function, there is no temp sensor though but I guess it was a typo
Depending on the pressure sensor you are using you might want to use a hose and mount it somewhere on the chassis.
Big bulky pressure sensors mounted directly on the engine is very likely to snap off right at the threads due to vibrations.

markforrester99

Thats right the OEM oil pressure switch as far as i know only connects to the dashboard. I've had mine disconnected for ages and just left the SPA gauge connected in its place. I'm pretty sure the SPA sender is 1/8 bsp and so is the hole in the block for the OEM sensor. I cant remember any issues fitting it and its been leak free for a good couple of years.

har-vey

How big is the spa pressure sensor? and have you wired it into your AEM also?

spdracerut

Well, I removed the donut when I put on the oil cooler. So in everyday driving, my oil temps are pretty much where the thermostat temp is set. Unfortunately, I have the 170F thermostat because I didn't know the 200F existed. I highly recommend the 200F thermostat. Use as big of lines and low pressure drop fittings (gentle bends) as possible to minimize pressure drop in the system.

If you mount in the wheel arch area, make sure you make an airflow path. Many many cars use this location, 911s, BMWs, Evo, etc. You can probably buy the wheel well louver from one of those cars and hack it into the S2k wheel well liner.

har-vey

Undecided as to keep or remove the heat exchanger now. If i don't run an additional sandwich plate for sensors (replace oem pressure sensor and run temp into the sump) i don't need to remove it but it would make it easier to do an oil service.

Think i may run with it for the now and see how the temperatures run.

yamahaSHO

I removed mine years ago. I ran a 200F thermostat, but I had a hard time getting the oil temp to 200F on the street unless I just kept wrapping the motor out, but then it would quickly drop. On my new oil cooler setup, I just put a high flow 180F thermostat and will not worry since I mostly track the car.

riceball777

in my opinion the oem oil cooler is very very inefficient at cooling the oil compared to a real air to air oil cooler. There will be no issues if you take out the oem oil cooler. I run the putning turbo kit which requires you to take out out the oem oil cooler due to clearance issues with the turbo. I run the ptuning air to air oil cooler and the oil is way cooler than with the oem oil cooler .

har-vey

The only reason i would keep it is to help warm the oil if im honest.

Possibly remove it and run a 200F oil cooler?

har-vey

If your car NA or are you boosted? What temp are you seeing on the motorway?

markforrester99

The mocal thermostats don't work particularly well. They allow oil through the cooler all the time regardless of its position. When the oil gets too hot the thermostat just forces all the oil to go through the cooler instead of it bypassing.

A turbo will also keep oil temperatures higher because it will get alot of extra heat from the exhaust housing.

If the cars not a daily drive and you take it easy when its warming up then ditching the OEM cooler will make not much difference but if you drive the car daily the ability to heat the oil up quickly is well worth it. The OEM cooler plate has a bypass built into it so at very high revs it has very little cooling effect but as soon as you come off the gas like on a cool down lap on a trackday it does remove the heat quite quickly. The problem is that it wont prevent the heat getting up to the high levels.