OK, I am SATISFIED.
06-17-2014, 11:24 PM
#11
Damn guy you're suuuuper anal with your tune. You're making it sound like this dude destroyed your tune and you're complaining about AFs with differences of .4-.5. Relax and let him fix these minor issues you have. I could understand being pissed about a car bucking or AFs in the 10-12s while cruising but what you posted seems so minor and can easily be fixed. Let the guy make a couple small changes to make the AF where you want it and don't get so wrapped around the AF staying pinned down to the tenth of a reading. 13s while going uphill aren't bad and also, 14 at idle isn't bad either lol. It depends on the injectors and fuel sometimes but a modded car doesn't always want what a stock car wants I.E. 14.7 idle.
06-18-2014, 01:08 AM
#12
It does not sound that bad to me. How is your mpg? I average 20mpg. Is your o2 feedback on? My car is at 14-15 air fuel when cruzing. But this is only with very very little load just to maintain a constant speed on a completely flat road and when at -10 vacuum. When there is a slight hill and I get close to 0 vacuum or and vacuum under -10 it will go into high 12's lows 13s for air fuel. My id1000s also idle in the high 13s. When my tuner tried to make them idle leaner into the 14s the car would just not idle right and would misfire. My car runs strong and has no problem with in the past 30,000 miles of being turboed.
It seems like your needs to be street tuned to get everything working perfectly but I'm pretty sure your issue #2 is normal. And over all it does not sound that bad.
It seems like your needs to be street tuned to get everything working perfectly but I'm pretty sure your issue #2 is normal. And over all it does not sound that bad.
06-18-2014, 04:57 AM
#13
It does sound like the tune, but what fuel pump are you running?
There's a whole section in the Haltech software for "transient throttle settings" which is where he needs to put time in to fix your issues when lightly coming on and off of throttle. The best way for him to do that is for you to be driving and him to be on his laptop in the passenger seat tuning it.
You need to have him check that you are set to use wideband feedback and that your target AFR's on your non-VTEC map are set correctly. As you mentioned, everything in the lower cruising RPM range should be 14.5-14.7 or so. Also make sure that he has the VTEC transition settings set up correctly. My first tune the tuner forgot to set up the conditions for switching to VTEC so it was only based on RPM. No matter how easy I was driving the car, as soon as I hit that RPM the tune switched over to the VTEC map and started running rich. On my next visit he fixed that and set up conditions for throttle position and MAP sensor pressure that had to be met before it would kick over to the VTEC map. It is NOT "normal" to drop into the 10's when cruising and applying light throttle corrections to maintain a speed. Its also easily possible to adjust the tune to get the car to average 14.7 at cruise and idle.
I know your feels Vader. I was very particular about the tune on my car as well. I knew how well the car COULD drive, and anything short of what I wanted/expected was unacceptable. Luckily I (eventually) found an excellent tuner who listened to my input and put up with my anal retentiveness. Its hard to find this caliber of a tuner that also has the knowledge of our engine and the tuning platform you chose. If you aren't happy with it, try your best to get it fixed. It may cost more money; people don't like to work for free... But if this guy can't give you what you want out of the car then you may just have to do what I did and cut your losses and start looking for another tuner. Great tuners are out there... You may have to drive a good distance to get to them, but they're out there.
There's a whole section in the Haltech software for "transient throttle settings" which is where he needs to put time in to fix your issues when lightly coming on and off of throttle. The best way for him to do that is for you to be driving and him to be on his laptop in the passenger seat tuning it.
You need to have him check that you are set to use wideband feedback and that your target AFR's on your non-VTEC map are set correctly. As you mentioned, everything in the lower cruising RPM range should be 14.5-14.7 or so. Also make sure that he has the VTEC transition settings set up correctly. My first tune the tuner forgot to set up the conditions for switching to VTEC so it was only based on RPM. No matter how easy I was driving the car, as soon as I hit that RPM the tune switched over to the VTEC map and started running rich. On my next visit he fixed that and set up conditions for throttle position and MAP sensor pressure that had to be met before it would kick over to the VTEC map. It is NOT "normal" to drop into the 10's when cruising and applying light throttle corrections to maintain a speed. Its also easily possible to adjust the tune to get the car to average 14.7 at cruise and idle.
I know your feels Vader. I was very particular about the tune on my car as well. I knew how well the car COULD drive, and anything short of what I wanted/expected was unacceptable. Luckily I (eventually) found an excellent tuner who listened to my input and put up with my anal retentiveness. Its hard to find this caliber of a tuner that also has the knowledge of our engine and the tuning platform you chose. If you aren't happy with it, try your best to get it fixed. It may cost more money; people don't like to work for free... But if this guy can't give you what you want out of the car then you may just have to do what I did and cut your losses and start looking for another tuner. Great tuners are out there... You may have to drive a good distance to get to them, but they're out there.
06-18-2014, 06:58 AM
#14
It does not sound that bad to me. How is your mpg? I average 20mpg. Is your o2 feedback on? My car is at 14-15 air fuel when cruzing. But this is only with very very little load just to maintain a constant speed on a completely flat road and when at -10 vacuum. When there is a slight hill and I get close to 0 vacuum or and vacuum under -10 it will go into high 12's lows 13s for air fuel. My id1000s also idle in the high 13s. When my tuner tried to make them idle leaner into the 14s the car would just not idle right and would misfire. My car runs strong and has no problem with in the past 30,000 miles of being turboed.
It seems like your needs to be street tuned to get everything working perfectly but I'm pretty sure your issue #2 is normal. And over all it does not sound that bad.
It seems like your needs to be street tuned to get everything working perfectly but I'm pretty sure your issue #2 is normal. And over all it does not sound that bad.
06-18-2014, 07:07 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Tuner called me last night and is making time for me to come in and fix the issues so I am cool with it. He called me at home at 8 and their shop closes at 5 and offered to come to my house or work to street tune out the problems. I was upset because just creeping around stop and go was smelly, burbly, labored and boggy. But he seems like a good guy, offered to fix, all is well.
I understand how some might think I am nitpicking, but you'd just have to drive the car. In way too many situations under very little load either under 30 mph or just cruising on the highway, you can feel it sputter and buck a little, you see the afr go very rich, and it bogs, stinks and sputters. It is probably something minor to adjust in the tune, but it is affecting way too much of the driving. And I could be happy with getting 20mpg on the highway, but some people at my power level get 30 on good tunes. If I drove like a maniac I would be happy because when you are on it, it is just fine, but I baby this car most of the time and then put the hammer down when aggression hits. I drive in the right lane with the cruise on most of the time.
Everyone said ditch the Emanage and go full standalone because it is so much better. Well $3000 later it is way worse, I just want it ironed out and the tuner assures me it will be, so I am cool with it. Maybe I am just a whiner but I think a good tune is one you should not notice the idiosyncrasies and I notice this current version 80% of the time I am driving it.
I think if he were in the car with me driving I could simulate everything in about a five minute span and if he can see the situation on the laptop he can figure out what is the problem. Come Monday, if all is well afterwards I will be the first guy to recommend him. His shop seems very busy and things can get screwed up, but if he is willing to make it right, I won't complain. I give the guy thumbs up for taking the time with me. Everybody is capable of missing something once in a while, if he fixes it I have nothing bad to say.
I'd like it to feel like a stock car with more power for my daily duties, and I am saving for a Cayman and I want anyone who might be a buyer for the car in the future to feel like it is perfect when they drive it. If I drove it right now as an interested party, I would think something is seriously wrong with the car when it is just a fueling issue.
On a side note though, does anyone know what causes the hunting idle? It does not do this every time I start it, only about half the time, but when cold I get to the light about a mile from my house and the idle is going up-down-up-down-up-down and people look at me like the car is a POS. That is an open loop deal,right?
I understand how some might think I am nitpicking, but you'd just have to drive the car. In way too many situations under very little load either under 30 mph or just cruising on the highway, you can feel it sputter and buck a little, you see the afr go very rich, and it bogs, stinks and sputters. It is probably something minor to adjust in the tune, but it is affecting way too much of the driving. And I could be happy with getting 20mpg on the highway, but some people at my power level get 30 on good tunes. If I drove like a maniac I would be happy because when you are on it, it is just fine, but I baby this car most of the time and then put the hammer down when aggression hits. I drive in the right lane with the cruise on most of the time.
Everyone said ditch the Emanage and go full standalone because it is so much better. Well $3000 later it is way worse, I just want it ironed out and the tuner assures me it will be, so I am cool with it. Maybe I am just a whiner but I think a good tune is one you should not notice the idiosyncrasies and I notice this current version 80% of the time I am driving it.
I think if he were in the car with me driving I could simulate everything in about a five minute span and if he can see the situation on the laptop he can figure out what is the problem. Come Monday, if all is well afterwards I will be the first guy to recommend him. His shop seems very busy and things can get screwed up, but if he is willing to make it right, I won't complain. I give the guy thumbs up for taking the time with me. Everybody is capable of missing something once in a while, if he fixes it I have nothing bad to say.
I'd like it to feel like a stock car with more power for my daily duties, and I am saving for a Cayman and I want anyone who might be a buyer for the car in the future to feel like it is perfect when they drive it. If I drove it right now as an interested party, I would think something is seriously wrong with the car when it is just a fueling issue.
On a side note though, does anyone know what causes the hunting idle? It does not do this every time I start it, only about half the time, but when cold I get to the light about a mile from my house and the idle is going up-down-up-down-up-down and people look at me like the car is a POS. That is an open loop deal,right?
06-18-2014, 07:55 AM
#16
I understand how some might think I am nitpicking, but you'd just have to drive the car. In way too many situations under very little load either under 30 mph or just cruising on the highway, you can feel it sputter and buck a little, you see the afr go very rich, and it bogs, stinks and sputters. It is probably something minor to adjust in the tune, but it is affecting way too much of the driving. And I could be happy with getting 20mpg on the highway, but some people at my power level get 30 on good tunes. If I drove like a maniac I would be happy because when you are on it, it is just fine, but I baby this car most of the time and then put the hammer down when aggression hits. I drive in the right lane with the cruise on most of the time.
Everyone said ditch the Emanage and go full standalone because it is so much better. Well $3000 later it is way worse, I just want it ironed out and the tuner assures me it will be, so I am cool with it. Maybe I am just a whiner but I think a good tune is one you should not notice the idiosyncrasies and I notice this current version 80% of the time I am driving it.
On a side note though, does anyone know what causes the hunting idle? It does not do this every time I start it, only about half the time, but when cold I get to the light about a mile from my house and the idle is going up-down-up-down-up-down and people look at me like the car is a POS.
Anything from injector latency being off, VE tables, compensations, etc.
06-18-2014, 09:10 AM
#17
Originally Posted by riceball777' timestamp='1403082536' post='23207821
It does not sound that bad to me. How is your mpg? I average 20mpg. Is your o2 feedback on? My car is at 14-15 air fuel when cruzing. But this is only with very very little load just to maintain a constant speed on a completely flat road and when at -10 vacuum. When there is a slight hill and I get close to 0 vacuum or and vacuum under -10 it will go into high 12's lows 13s for air fuel. My id1000s also idle in the high 13s. When my tuner tried to make them idle leaner into the 14s the car would just not idle right and would misfire. My car runs strong and has no problem with in the past 30,000 miles of being turboed.
It seems like your needs to be street tuned to get everything working perfectly but I'm pretty sure your issue #2 is normal. And over all it does not sound that bad.
It seems like your needs to be street tuned to get everything working perfectly but I'm pretty sure your issue #2 is normal. And over all it does not sound that bad.
My ID1000 and emanage combo idle like stock.
06-18-2014, 11:04 AM
#19
