Good to know. Thx Tut.. and also for the info on the Exhaust fitment Tut and also Stewie for the sounds via IG.

Np! I'll work on getting a fly by soon with it. U may be able to hear it will see.

For a street driven s2k, is the OEM Radiator, OEM t-sat, and SPAL fan included with the kit sufficient? Trying to gather accessory parts for when the kit arrives... and for a drop in Deatschwerks DW 200 fuel pump, OEM wiring sufficent?

with the low mount turbo configuration and your setup i dont see why not. The spal fans should be able to bleed off that heat in a hurry. I see your going with a 200lph so not shooting for the stars? And your just stretting it with some boost?

the DW200 was on my car from the s/c i used... its pretty much a walbro 255lph...

Cooling, yes. Pump, not sure.

Back to the creep issues.

I am running the 3576 gen2 .82ar with an open dump. My downpipe was modified to fit better and the recirc was cut out. You can see straight through my exhaust from dump v-band all the way to where it curves by the axle. It then splits to complete a dual 3" exhaust. The exhaust is extremely non restrictive. As such, creep is very evident on my setup. With no disc, I've seen it go up to 18psi on the 7psi spring. With the disc, the highest I've seen is 13-16psi. I have not yet revved it all the way to 8000 as the creep is getting to be too much.

I have a couple of thoughts to correct the issue on the exhaust side of things.

1.) Recirculate the dump tube. My theory is that the flow coming from the wastegate into the flow of the downpipe will not only create a bit of turbulence slowing down the exhaust flow, but the exhaust flow coming by the dump tube will act as a scavenging/venturi effect to help pull the flow from the wastegate. Thus allowing the wastegate to become more efficient.

2.) Go to a smaller .63ar to create a restriction in the exhaust and give more priority to the wastegate.

I never installed the ptuning air filter as it looked too small for the system. I installed a 7" velocity stack and filter instead. It's almost the size of the engine. A bit crazy, but I wanted it to breathe. By installing the ptuning filter, I may be able to choke the compressor a bit and reduce the amount of pressure I'm seeing. This concerns me a bit as It may cause CHRA problems if it is too restrictive, but that is likely a non issue to worry about.

My 3576 choice could just flow too well with the large turbine and the smaller compressor as well. I may not ever be able to control the creep with the design of the system, but I'm open to any other ideas someone may have.

The flange size is different than what's on the manifold. It's possible, but you'd have to cut the flange off the manifold and open the hole for the larger size.

There is finally a solution to the vibration issues that accompany this kit from the engine mount design. I'd venture to say that the vibration isn't as bad as most aftermarket mounts (save Vibratechnics) but for me it was unbearable coming from factory mounts. My defrost vent, A/C panel, side mirrors, and various other interior rattles were driving me insane. As soon as I fixed one, another would show it's face. It was to the point that I was seriously considering a sidewinder manifold setup to be free from the nonsense. But that in itself presents heat issues and other complications. Give up one flaw and gain others as they say.

Well, RAIN H8R and I have been bouncing ideas back and forth about how to solve this issue, or at least make it better. The first attempt was made by myself, as I was desperate to come up with a solution. I removed the mount and drilled a total of four 7/32" holes. You can see the holes and their location here...

Attachment 155422

I drove around on that for a couple of months and it was better, but still not enough. Id say it wasn't worth drilling just the holes alone honestly now that I think of it. Dustin then decided to drill holes in his mount, but in a different location using a 3/8" drill. This was his result.

Attachment 155423

He seemed to have the same feelings about his modification as I did about mine. Better, but not significant enough. So the idea was suggested to cut some of the insert away from the middle where the two halves meet by Dustin. Again, It was driving me nuts so I took mine back out and commenced to cutting my mount. I decided to take 1/8" off each half as seen here...

Attachment 155424

You can see the difference in sizing here...

Attachment 155425

This is with one insert in. The scribe mark you see on the aluminum housing is where the original uncut inserts sat.

Attachment 155426

Not the best of pictures, but this shows the gap created by cutting the inserts with both of them reinstalled. I decided that while I had it out, I would add two holes to the bottom and one hole at the top in 1/4" sizing as can be seen here.

Attachment 155427

The results...night and day difference. Granted it has been in the mid 70s to mid 80's since I did the modification, but it idles at near stock smoothness now. Under acceleration it feels better too, but not as big of a difference as it does at idle. That wasn't my area of concern though. Steady cruise and idle was where the vibration issue needed to be addressed. I had a passenger that rode with me prior to the modification comment on how much of a difference it made too.

If I had to do it over, I would cut the insert first and not drill the holes. I believe the compression of the inserts is the most significant area of concern. The holes MAY have helped, but they could always be added later if needed, plus it would be easier now that your insert would be shorter. Use grease when assembling the inserts, as it makes the job much easier. Hope this helps some of those who can't live with the vibration like me.

Now on to this pesky boost creep issue! :banghead:

Thank you for all of your hard work on this Ryan!