Sup everyone. I sold the Boosted s2000 last summer. A buddy of mine I was with that picked up a 02 AP1. This was the motor that WAS inside the car. From what I know the original owner explained that the rear main seal went bad and leaked oil, and cylinder #2 went.

Taking apart the motor I found this beautiful sight.

Can anyone chime in. Cylinder 2 is scored, looks like oil starvation lead to a very hot bearing if you look at the crank shaft aswell.


Questions:
1. Is the block still salvageable?
2. Will this need a new crank.
3. If the block is salvageable how to fix it and what pistons to run for boost.

I checked the head its looking fine. I'm looking to get this built up to a boost monster, but before I spend another dollar i must know if the block and crank will need replacing.

Also suggestions from everyone about springs, double springs, valves, pistons, etc whats the smarted way to go with this to safely handle 500-600hp

 

you could resleeve the block, im not sure about the crank.

 

Typically when a bearing gets burned on the crank, its just the material from the bearing that's left on the crank journal. The only thing thst usually needs done is have the crank resurfaced and it'll be good to go. Typically when they resurface the crank bearing surfaces, it doesn't removed any material from the crank, but just removes the bearing residue left over that's stuck to the crank. They usually just use a type of emery cloth sandpaper for this procedure.

 

ok that's promising news... What do you think the smartest route to go with the block? Last time i took apart a motor was 6 years ago...

What im thinking to do is build and balance this thing to 10,000 rpm and shoot for that in a gt40...
random thoughts

 

Any thoughts guys?

 

Cp pistons, pauter rods,benson sleeves. Theres tons setups to look at on here, to decide what route to go.

 

oh yeah thats for shure, I'm for shure going to sleeve this motor, and thinking about througing it in my 95 m3

ill prob be sending it out somewhere soon to get this thing cleaned up and sleeved.

 

Or use the Mahle pistons, I think you can buy them OD and bore the OEM block.

 

I believe they require a different wrist pin than stock and he'd need aftermarket rods as well.

This is just my opinion, but the price difference is negligible enough to just go all out. Again that is just my opinion.

 

Yeah, you are right. Thought he wanted to use real rods since you discussed sleeves.

Want to stress the FRM cylinders and find the limit, sponsor me anyone?
I bet Mahle pistons, good rods and stock block will be a beast to a decent price.