Question about GTX3076r stock turbo.
#1
Question about GTX3076r stock turbo.
Hello guys.
I am currently searching for all the possible routes to go turbocharged with a GTX3076r turbo.
My plan is to reach 450-480bhp , something that is achievable at boosts around 0.9 bar if I'm not mistaken?
I want to retain the daily character of my car, that's why I went for this turbo.
Question is, do I have to modify anything in the engine head or keep it stock to reach those numbers? I was thinking of installing new Ferrea Competition Plus valves to avoid valve drop and probably some Toda 80lbs springs, everything else could be kept stock, maybe some new oem ap2 retainers and a new oem head gasket too. Or do you think I should just keep everything stock and install only the new retainers and head gasket? Excuse me if those questions are stupid, I am not really mechanically minded.
Engine has approximately 62.000 miles.
Thanks in advance.
I am currently searching for all the possible routes to go turbocharged with a GTX3076r turbo.
My plan is to reach 450-480bhp , something that is achievable at boosts around 0.9 bar if I'm not mistaken?
I want to retain the daily character of my car, that's why I went for this turbo.
Question is, do I have to modify anything in the engine head or keep it stock to reach those numbers? I was thinking of installing new Ferrea Competition Plus valves to avoid valve drop and probably some Toda 80lbs springs, everything else could be kept stock, maybe some new oem ap2 retainers and a new oem head gasket too. Or do you think I should just keep everything stock and install only the new retainers and head gasket? Excuse me if those questions are stupid, I am not really mechanically minded.
Engine has approximately 62.000 miles.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Assuming ur Ap1 (that's good mileage for one to!)
Have someone that is mechanically minded do a valve lash, while ur in there do a good inspection of the retainers.
Your saying you want daily driver, so also assuming she won't be harped on to bad. Just don't do full throttle shift/mis a gear should be good imo.
You could do all the head work, to me i say just be really religious about your maintenance. Only harp on it when conditions are right and you have the supporting mods working in sync.
Have someone that is mechanically minded do a valve lash, while ur in there do a good inspection of the retainers.
Your saying you want daily driver, so also assuming she won't be harped on to bad. Just don't do full throttle shift/mis a gear should be good imo.
You could do all the head work, to me i say just be really religious about your maintenance. Only harp on it when conditions are right and you have the supporting mods working in sync.
#4
.9 bar is about right for that HP goal. Depending on Fuel (93 or e85) and ign timing. either way it will about around the same PSI at that HP.
Keep the motor stock and add in valve springs and retainers. I recommend supertech 80lb springs since I have had great experience with them at a very similar setup that you ask about.
I recommend going with aftermarket valve springs since it offers better piece of mind for over rev situations vs oem springs. If you are already doing the work to change out the retainers then you should just do the springs while you are there (and new oem valve seals). also, all of this can be changed while keeping the head on the car. either use compressed air in the cylinder or a nylon rope (I have done it both ways and both have worked great). I recommend a competent mechanic to do this work.
never mix match springs and retainers. only use oem retainers on oem spring and use the supplied retainers for aftermarket springs.
Keep the motor stock and add in valve springs and retainers. I recommend supertech 80lb springs since I have had great experience with them at a very similar setup that you ask about.
I recommend going with aftermarket valve springs since it offers better piece of mind for over rev situations vs oem springs. If you are already doing the work to change out the retainers then you should just do the springs while you are there (and new oem valve seals). also, all of this can be changed while keeping the head on the car. either use compressed air in the cylinder or a nylon rope (I have done it both ways and both have worked great). I recommend a competent mechanic to do this work.
never mix match springs and retainers. only use oem retainers on oem spring and use the supplied retainers for aftermarket springs.
#5
Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it.
I am worried about valve drop that's why I was intending to upgrade OEM valves with Ferrea Comp Plus.
Car is not in for work yet, trying to take the best decision so as to proceed.
Also If I am not mistaken , AFK-S2K, toda valve springs are designed to work with OEM retainers.
I am worried about valve drop that's why I was intending to upgrade OEM valves with Ferrea Comp Plus.
Car is not in for work yet, trying to take the best decision so as to proceed.
Also If I am not mistaken , AFK-S2K, toda valve springs are designed to work with OEM retainers.
#6
Thanks for your input guys, I really appreciate it.
I am worried about valve drop that's why I was intending to upgrade OEM valves with Ferrea Comp Plus.
Car is not in for work yet, trying to take the best decision so as to proceed.
Also If I am not mistaken , AFK-S2K, toda valve springs are designed to work with OEM retainers.
I am worried about valve drop that's why I was intending to upgrade OEM valves with Ferrea Comp Plus.
Car is not in for work yet, trying to take the best decision so as to proceed.
Also If I am not mistaken , AFK-S2K, toda valve springs are designed to work with OEM retainers.
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