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-   -   Replacing the center cross member (https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-forced-induction-142/replacing-center-cross-member-886535/)

ghettocrxsi 08-01-2011 05:56 PM

Yes I have replaced them on crashed cars, if you go to airgas you can buy spot weld drill bits.

siadam 08-01-2011 06:41 PM


Originally Posted by ghettocrxsi (Post 20837471)
Yes I have replaced them on crashed cars, if you go to airgas you can buy spot weld drill bits.

I've heard of em, but it's always a big deal to get down there before they close, I'm a 9-5 guy.

I picked up a couple good dewalt metal bits. So that shouldn't be an issue I'm hoping.

Gonna start on it tomorrow.


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passmans2kny 08-01-2011 07:50 PM

use some cutting lube so u dont dull the new bits u just got, good luck i wanna see how it comes out :thumbup:

ghettocrxsi 08-01-2011 11:29 PM

The spot welds are not too deep so they drill out pretty easy.

siadam 08-03-2011 07:47 AM


Originally Posted by ghettocrxsi (Post 20838174)
The spot welds are not too deep so they drill out pretty easy.


Yea I noticed that.

I drilled them out on one side.

Did the ones on top, and the 5 or so on each side, and the thing didn't budge. I'm going to stop and pickup a one size bigger drill bit, I'm thinking I didn't go big enough.

If it still doesn't come out, I'll just saw-zaw the center, then bend it back/forth.

passmans2kny 08-03-2011 08:11 AM

spot welds on the bottom?

Soul Coughing 08-03-2011 08:36 AM

Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?

siadam 08-03-2011 08:57 AM


Originally Posted by Soul Coughing (Post 20843138)
Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?


I'm not sure what your asking. The bracket that attaches to the frame rail is going to be removed, then I am putting a 6x6", 1/8th" steel plate to cover the area where the bracket was on either side, then running a 2" piece of tubing between those plates that was actually a subframe support off a mustang.

B/c it's round and not square, I'll gain some clearance, and I might drop it down an inch or 2 depending on the clearance between the tube and the power steering rack.

I actually thought about getting some lag bolts and making it a bolt in affair, so it was easily removed for pulling the motor or whatever instead of spot welding it back.

Soul Coughing 08-03-2011 11:46 AM


Originally Posted by siadam (Post 20843210)

Originally Posted by Soul Coughing' timestamp='1312389417' post='20843138
Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?


I'm not sure what your asking. The bracket that attaches to the frame rail is going to be removed, then I am putting a 6x6", 1/8th" steel plate to cover the area where the bracket was on either side, then running a 2" piece of tubing between those plates that was actually a subframe support off a mustang.

B/c it's round and not square, I'll gain some clearance, and I might drop it down an inch or 2 depending on the clearance between the tube and the power steering rack.

I actually thought about getting some lag bolts and making it a bolt in affair, so it was easily removed for pulling the motor or whatever instead of spot welding it back.

I was just curious where you were going to relocate the support to. Sounds like you'll reinstall it correctly, i just didn't want you to lose an important reinforcement. :hello:

siadam 08-03-2011 01:09 PM


Originally Posted by Soul Coughing (Post 20843934)

Originally Posted by siadam' timestamp='1312390659' post='20843210
[quote name='Soul Coughing' timestamp='1312389417' post='20843138']
Do you just use a smaller piece of tubing for the rail, or move the lower? If you've ever looked at the location of the rail, its on the other side of the frame that connects the upper control arms to the frame. I hope you're keeping this rail in the same location, or you'll hurt torsional rigidity, especially when turning!

Otherwise, i'd love to see pics of this. Do you spot weld in the new bar?


I'm not sure what your asking. The bracket that attaches to the frame rail is going to be removed, then I am putting a 6x6", 1/8th" steel plate to cover the area where the bracket was on either side, then running a 2" piece of tubing between those plates that was actually a subframe support off a mustang.

B/c it's round and not square, I'll gain some clearance, and I might drop it down an inch or 2 depending on the clearance between the tube and the power steering rack.

I actually thought about getting some lag bolts and making it a bolt in affair, so it was easily removed for pulling the motor or whatever instead of spot welding it back.

I was just curious where you were going to relocate the support to. Sounds like you'll reinstall it correctly, i just didn't want you to lose an important reinforcement. :hello:
[/quote]

Yea, no way I'd leave it out. Unless it was a drag car, (maybe). I intend to drive this on the street, corner carve it and the like.

I have a feeling this will be even more strong than what the factory had.


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