Rich Idle and ticking from Timing Chain area
05-16-2012, 11:58 AM
#11
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If you blasted the worm geart it should have gotten better right away. The other thing is the TCT issue is generally related to engine temp and rpm as well, essentially it's inconsistent until it slowly gets much worse. If this started rather suddenly it's probably not the normal TCT issue everyone gets.
05-16-2012, 02:59 PM
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On the drive home from work just now, I noticed that the noise is only there during light load or while engine braking. when I give it gas to accelerate the noise goes away.
05-16-2012, 03:40 PM
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The TCT is partially oil pressure driven, partially spring driven. The oil pressure being the variable factor of course.
With that said, generally it's of course quieter during anytime that higher oil pressure is being made. It's worst at idle.
Also, as oil get's hotter it's viscosity changes and it becomes thinner, as a result it sometimes becomes too thin to the point of flowing through the TCT worm gear too easily. Mobil 1 oil is notorious for this issue and for causing TCT issues as a result. Changing oil will instantly provide SOME improvements in just about every situation. Even a new batch of Mobil 1 will better perform than an old batch but a better oil such as a good Group V (group 5) such as Motul 6100 will outperform it hands down.
There's serious issues in a engine that can appear to be masked under load as well though, issues like bearing failures of internal parts sometimes sound worst at idle where they're free to rattle around, under load they are held tightly against a wall surface and thus are quieter. This holds true until it gets worse at which point they rattle/knock regardless.
If it's a serious internal issue chances are it will sound worst at a cold start in the morning where the tolerances of the bearings and such are loose until the heat swells them from the engine warming up. If THIS is the case I'd be much more concerned for you.
TCT issues are worse as temp increases generally, if THIS is the case for you I'd be much less concerned as it's probably TCT related rather than serious internal failure.
Either way have a look at things with the valve cover off. Cylinder #1 is right behind the timing chain so perhaps it SOUNDED like it was the timing chain area but really is a cracked valve/spring/retainer on cylinder #1 or something of that nature. A stuck valve can be looked at visually and by pressing down on them one by one, if they move and return they're probably fine or at least not horrible. Don't tap them with a hammer....you can drop the c-clip on accident by doing that, I've heard of it happening many times.
With that said, generally it's of course quieter during anytime that higher oil pressure is being made. It's worst at idle.
Also, as oil get's hotter it's viscosity changes and it becomes thinner, as a result it sometimes becomes too thin to the point of flowing through the TCT worm gear too easily. Mobil 1 oil is notorious for this issue and for causing TCT issues as a result. Changing oil will instantly provide SOME improvements in just about every situation. Even a new batch of Mobil 1 will better perform than an old batch but a better oil such as a good Group V (group 5) such as Motul 6100 will outperform it hands down.
There's serious issues in a engine that can appear to be masked under load as well though, issues like bearing failures of internal parts sometimes sound worst at idle where they're free to rattle around, under load they are held tightly against a wall surface and thus are quieter. This holds true until it gets worse at which point they rattle/knock regardless.
If it's a serious internal issue chances are it will sound worst at a cold start in the morning where the tolerances of the bearings and such are loose until the heat swells them from the engine warming up. If THIS is the case I'd be much more concerned for you.
TCT issues are worse as temp increases generally, if THIS is the case for you I'd be much less concerned as it's probably TCT related rather than serious internal failure.
Either way have a look at things with the valve cover off. Cylinder #1 is right behind the timing chain so perhaps it SOUNDED like it was the timing chain area but really is a cracked valve/spring/retainer on cylinder #1 or something of that nature. A stuck valve can be looked at visually and by pressing down on them one by one, if they move and return they're probably fine or at least not horrible. Don't tap them with a hammer....you can drop the c-clip on accident by doing that, I've heard of it happening many times.
05-16-2012, 05:15 PM
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The sound is actually more frequent when warm. At cold start it's not as bad. While cold the noise isn't there at idle, but if I raise the rpms I can get it to make the noise.
05-17-2012, 03:27 AM
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