S2-3456789-K's SOS Supercharger Build
03-26-2016, 09:01 AM
#1
S2-3456789-K's SOS Supercharger Build
Contents
Post #1: General Overview & Results
Post #2: Pre-S/C (Supporting) Mods
Post #3: S/C Install
Hi everyone,
I've been lurking on the FI forum for quite some time, and I've contemplated which direction to take for building my car as most of you also have.
I have had my current MY04 daily driver since 2010, and I just passed the 100k milestone before winter. My goals are to have 350-400 whp, maintain the linear power band that I enjoy in the stock S2000, and also remain highly reliable such that I can continue to daily drive the car for most of the year. I decided not to go with a turbo setup, although the SOS kit was quite attractive. Last summer, one of the local members "LBPS2K06" let me check out and drive his AP2 KW v2 S/C car, and it really reinforced my decision to go with a S/C setup. I've always disagreed with KW's cogged belt design, and after multiple threads surfaced about KW's reliability/QC issues, I decided to take advantage of the SOS end-of-year sale, and purchased the SOS 1200 kit (4" pulley) w/ racing HX.
Before putting the S2000 away for the winter, I completed a few mods to prepare for the S/C install:
Fuel pump - AEM 320 LPH
Header - PLM w/ test pipe
Injectors - ID1000
Other mods:
Competition Clutch Stage 2 (clutch delay valve removed)
AEM Series 2 EMS (F/W -02v02)
J's Racing 60rs
I'm using this thread to document & comment on my build. I plan on tuning myself, so hopefully this thread will be useful for others looking to install/tune a similar S/C setup.
Packaging of SOS Kit:
Kit arrived in 2 packages - one for the supercharger, and the other for everything else. Everything was neatly packaged, and most items were broken out into separate boxes and bags that were conveniently labeled. When I received the kit, I knew I wouldn't have a chance to work on it for a few months, but I did check all the parts against the bill of materials, and everything checked out, so I don't expect to be missing anything. Great job by SOS.
Instructions:
So far, I've been very impressed with the instructions. Parts are clearly identified for each step. Detailed instructions are given where needed, and there are plenty of supporting pictures. You can tell SOS has put quite a bit of thought and effort into making the instructions user-friendly.
First Impression:
The car feels great! Even though I have not taken it to redline yet, the linearity of the power increase is awesome. The throttle response is instant, especially if you down-shift where you normally would. I don't really think there's much additional noise, but you can definitely hear it venting under decel from above ~5k rpm. The whistle/whine is something I've already grown to love, and even the "coffee grinder" noise at idle is growing on me.
Virtual Dyno (VD) Results:
I've been using VD to help me tune ever since I got my AEM installed/tuned/dyno'd initially. *DISCLAIMER* I do not use VD to claim I made ### whp; however, I do use it to make comparisons. Having said that, I have taken a lot of time to convince myself that using VD is repeatable, and I've correlated the data to my actual dyno results (Dynapack). I always do my VD pulls on the same section of the same road, on a spring/fall morning.
[attachment=94516:2016-05-06_SCrev1a_compare.jpg]
I took the car up to 7000 rpm for the first time, and to be honest, I stopped because I chickened out
The blue line was my last virtual dyno, after PLM header install (and slightly more aggressive timing overall). Green line was before PLM install.
A couple of things I've noticed:
- I did not change the VTEC engagement point, but VTEC seems to come on ~100 rpm later. Not sure if this is due to adding the VTEC mounting plate that ports oil to the supercharger. Maybe that introduces a delay? If my theory is correct, then the delay is time based, such that if I did a pull in a higher gear, the time delay would stay the same while the rpm delay would be less.
- When VTEC engages, the AFR spikes more than it did as an NA car. I plan to increase the VTEC fuel trim (step increase in fuel), and adjusting the fuel map to maintain the desired AFR after VTEC engagement.
- I still have to clean up the AFR a bit - I'm targeting ~12-11.5 above VTEC, and ~13-12.5 below VTEC.
- The noise signature is somewhat different, but not much higher than it was as NA. I think I have some room to extract more power, but that'll come after I'm brave enough to hit redline.
- If I extrapolate boost & whp, I think I'll end up at around 8-9 psi, 360-370 whp at 8100-8200 rpm.
Post #1: General Overview & Results
Post #2: Pre-S/C (Supporting) Mods
Post #3: S/C Install
Hi everyone,
I've been lurking on the FI forum for quite some time, and I've contemplated which direction to take for building my car as most of you also have.
I have had my current MY04 daily driver since 2010, and I just passed the 100k milestone before winter. My goals are to have 350-400 whp, maintain the linear power band that I enjoy in the stock S2000, and also remain highly reliable such that I can continue to daily drive the car for most of the year. I decided not to go with a turbo setup, although the SOS kit was quite attractive. Last summer, one of the local members "LBPS2K06" let me check out and drive his AP2 KW v2 S/C car, and it really reinforced my decision to go with a S/C setup. I've always disagreed with KW's cogged belt design, and after multiple threads surfaced about KW's reliability/QC issues, I decided to take advantage of the SOS end-of-year sale, and purchased the SOS 1200 kit (4" pulley) w/ racing HX.
Before putting the S2000 away for the winter, I completed a few mods to prepare for the S/C install:
Fuel pump - AEM 320 LPH
Header - PLM w/ test pipe
Injectors - ID1000
Other mods:
Competition Clutch Stage 2 (clutch delay valve removed)
AEM Series 2 EMS (F/W -02v02)
J's Racing 60rs
I'm using this thread to document & comment on my build. I plan on tuning myself, so hopefully this thread will be useful for others looking to install/tune a similar S/C setup.
Packaging of SOS Kit:
Kit arrived in 2 packages - one for the supercharger, and the other for everything else. Everything was neatly packaged, and most items were broken out into separate boxes and bags that were conveniently labeled. When I received the kit, I knew I wouldn't have a chance to work on it for a few months, but I did check all the parts against the bill of materials, and everything checked out, so I don't expect to be missing anything. Great job by SOS.
Instructions:
So far, I've been very impressed with the instructions. Parts are clearly identified for each step. Detailed instructions are given where needed, and there are plenty of supporting pictures. You can tell SOS has put quite a bit of thought and effort into making the instructions user-friendly.
First Impression:
The car feels great! Even though I have not taken it to redline yet, the linearity of the power increase is awesome. The throttle response is instant, especially if you down-shift where you normally would. I don't really think there's much additional noise, but you can definitely hear it venting under decel from above ~5k rpm. The whistle/whine is something I've already grown to love, and even the "coffee grinder" noise at idle is growing on me.
Virtual Dyno (VD) Results:
I've been using VD to help me tune ever since I got my AEM installed/tuned/dyno'd initially. *DISCLAIMER* I do not use VD to claim I made ### whp; however, I do use it to make comparisons. Having said that, I have taken a lot of time to convince myself that using VD is repeatable, and I've correlated the data to my actual dyno results (Dynapack). I always do my VD pulls on the same section of the same road, on a spring/fall morning.
[attachment=94516:2016-05-06_SCrev1a_compare.jpg]
I took the car up to 7000 rpm for the first time, and to be honest, I stopped because I chickened out
The blue line was my last virtual dyno, after PLM header install (and slightly more aggressive timing overall). Green line was before PLM install.
A couple of things I've noticed:
- I did not change the VTEC engagement point, but VTEC seems to come on ~100 rpm later. Not sure if this is due to adding the VTEC mounting plate that ports oil to the supercharger. Maybe that introduces a delay? If my theory is correct, then the delay is time based, such that if I did a pull in a higher gear, the time delay would stay the same while the rpm delay would be less.
- When VTEC engages, the AFR spikes more than it did as an NA car. I plan to increase the VTEC fuel trim (step increase in fuel), and adjusting the fuel map to maintain the desired AFR after VTEC engagement.
- I still have to clean up the AFR a bit - I'm targeting ~12-11.5 above VTEC, and ~13-12.5 below VTEC.
- The noise signature is somewhat different, but not much higher than it was as NA. I think I have some room to extract more power, but that'll come after I'm brave enough to hit redline.
- If I extrapolate boost & whp, I think I'll end up at around 8-9 psi, 360-370 whp at 8100-8200 rpm.
03-26-2016, 09:01 AM
#2
Reserved for pre-S/C mods...
6/13/15 - Fuel Pump install.
I removed the plastic piece behind the roll hoops to access the fuel pump. It's definitely a squeeze and difficult to see, but if you can get an overhead shot of what you're working on, it's not too bad. I think it was 3 screws to remove a cover piece. Then, you'll find 8 bolts, 2 hoses, and an electrical plug to disassemble.
[attachment=93135:fuel_tank.JPG]
The pump assembly should pull right out. Be careful after you get about half of it out that there's a level sensor and fuel filter near the bottom. You don't want to damage these pieces.
[attachment=93136:fuel_pump_out.JPG]
There's a clip at the bottom of the pump that fixes the pump to the assembly. Take that off, loosen the hose clamps on the pump outlet, and disconnect the wiring to the pump. I chose the AEM 320 lph pump, and it's pretty much a drop-in replacement.
[attachment=93137:fuel_pump_cmp.JPG]
I used the original fuel filter & wire connector. Putting the pump back into the assembly was straightforward, and dropping the assembly back into the fuel tank was also not a big deal, as long as you be careful with the level sensor and filter.
[attachment=93138:fuel_pump_new.JPG]
3/19/16 - Removed stock injectors & installed ID1000's.
Easy install, especially with the pnp connectors. I'm not really a fan of them - they bunch up and that area ends up being more messy. After verifying that the injectors work, and the adjustments I had made in the tune were good, I will go back and cut the wires, take the connectors out, and solder them to the ID1000 connectors. I think it'll be much cleaner that way, and you take out a potential failure point.
Here's a picture showing how to access the injectors. I tried to point out every areas where a bolt should be taken out or a hose should be disconnected. After doing that, you should be able to lift up the fuel rail. The injectors should either lift off of their seats or slide off the fuel rail. You may have a bit of fuel spill out from the rail.
[attachment=92972
re_disassembly.JPG]
After you take the OEM injectors out, it's important that you take off the rubber grommets and re-use them for the new injectors. You can put them on the new injectors, or seat them on the manifold (I found that to be easier). Then, slide each new injector into the fuel rail. This part may require some patients, as you do not want to damage the o-rings. Last thing to remember is to put the 3 washers on the 3 rods that the fuel rail is bolted to, as the rail needs slightly more clearance with the new injectors installed.
[attachment=92973:injectors_new_old.JPG]
10/25/15 - PLM header install.
I've seen mixed reviews about the PLM header; however, it's been more good than bad. I decided to give it a try. The welds look decent, and overall quality is pretty outstanding for the cost.
[attachment=93139lm_weld1.JPG] [attachment=93140lm_weld2.JPG] [attachment=93141lm_weld3.JPG]
[attachment=93142lm_oem_cmp.JPG]
It was a bit tough to get one of the bolts off of the heatshield attached to the OEM header, but other than that, it was easy to remove the OEM header. Getting the PLM header in place was tougher, as there's less clearance. After trying several entry angles, the one that worked was starting with the collector end pointed towards the driver side. You can see the clearance against one of the motor mounts when installed. I've confirmed that it doesn't rub or rattle when driving.
[attachment=93144:clearance.JPG]
Here are a couple of final shots of the install. The OEM heatshield that protects the battery & AC lines still fits over the PLM header.
[attachment=93143lm_loose.JPG] [attachment=93145lm_final2.JPG]
6/13/15 - Fuel Pump install.
I removed the plastic piece behind the roll hoops to access the fuel pump. It's definitely a squeeze and difficult to see, but if you can get an overhead shot of what you're working on, it's not too bad. I think it was 3 screws to remove a cover piece. Then, you'll find 8 bolts, 2 hoses, and an electrical plug to disassemble.
[attachment=93135:fuel_tank.JPG]
The pump assembly should pull right out. Be careful after you get about half of it out that there's a level sensor and fuel filter near the bottom. You don't want to damage these pieces.
[attachment=93136:fuel_pump_out.JPG]
There's a clip at the bottom of the pump that fixes the pump to the assembly. Take that off, loosen the hose clamps on the pump outlet, and disconnect the wiring to the pump. I chose the AEM 320 lph pump, and it's pretty much a drop-in replacement.
[attachment=93137:fuel_pump_cmp.JPG]
I used the original fuel filter & wire connector. Putting the pump back into the assembly was straightforward, and dropping the assembly back into the fuel tank was also not a big deal, as long as you be careful with the level sensor and filter.
[attachment=93138:fuel_pump_new.JPG]
3/19/16 - Removed stock injectors & installed ID1000's.
Easy install, especially with the pnp connectors. I'm not really a fan of them - they bunch up and that area ends up being more messy. After verifying that the injectors work, and the adjustments I had made in the tune were good, I will go back and cut the wires, take the connectors out, and solder them to the ID1000 connectors. I think it'll be much cleaner that way, and you take out a potential failure point.
Here's a picture showing how to access the injectors. I tried to point out every areas where a bolt should be taken out or a hose should be disconnected. After doing that, you should be able to lift up the fuel rail. The injectors should either lift off of their seats or slide off the fuel rail. You may have a bit of fuel spill out from the rail.
[attachment=92972
re_disassembly.JPG]After you take the OEM injectors out, it's important that you take off the rubber grommets and re-use them for the new injectors. You can put them on the new injectors, or seat them on the manifold (I found that to be easier). Then, slide each new injector into the fuel rail. This part may require some patients, as you do not want to damage the o-rings. Last thing to remember is to put the 3 washers on the 3 rods that the fuel rail is bolted to, as the rail needs slightly more clearance with the new injectors installed.
[attachment=92973:injectors_new_old.JPG]
10/25/15 - PLM header install.
I've seen mixed reviews about the PLM header; however, it's been more good than bad. I decided to give it a try. The welds look decent, and overall quality is pretty outstanding for the cost.
[attachment=93139
lm_weld1.JPG] [attachment=93140lm_weld2.JPG] [attachment=93141lm_weld3.JPG][attachment=93142
lm_oem_cmp.JPG]It was a bit tough to get one of the bolts off of the heatshield attached to the OEM header, but other than that, it was easy to remove the OEM header. Getting the PLM header in place was tougher, as there's less clearance. After trying several entry angles, the one that worked was starting with the collector end pointed towards the driver side. You can see the clearance against one of the motor mounts when installed. I've confirmed that it doesn't rub or rattle when driving.
[attachment=93144:clearance.JPG]
Here are a couple of final shots of the install. The OEM heatshield that protects the battery & AC lines still fits over the PLM header.
[attachment=93143
lm_loose.JPG] [attachment=93145lm_final2.JPG]
03-26-2016, 09:03 AM
#3
Reserved for S/C install...
3/30/16 - Removed crank pulley, and installed SOS crank pulley & adaptor.
With Rob's (LBPS2K06) help, we broke the crank bolt loose in 5-10 minutes!
1) Put a 10"-12" bar on the crank bolt removal tool, and rest it against a rigid structure.
2) Use a 3/4"-drive breaker bar (48") and impact socket on the bolt. Depending on the bar & socket, it may be easier access to use an extension piece such that the bar ends up between the radiator fan and the cross-member.
3) Give a couple of quick jolts, and the bolt should break loose.
I put the SOS crank pulley on first, and then put the adaptor over it. You should be able to put the adaptor on the crank pulley first, since there's plenty of clearance - no shaving/cutting required.
4/2/16 - Removed front bumper, air control valve, air pump, air pump relay, etc.
To remove the air control valve, remove the 2 bolts holding it in place, the vacuum hose, and the air hose. I capped it with a PuddyMod blank piece. It was recommended in several other threads.
[attachment=93132:air_ctrl_vlv.JPG] [attachment=93133:air_ctrl_vlv_capped.JPG]
Removing the air pump and the relay was pretty simple. I think it was 4 bolts (2 for the air pump bracket, and 2 for the relay). The pump inlet pipes to the air intake, and the outlet pipes to the air control valve. All of that can come out. The vacuum hoses that run from the manifold to the air control valve solenoid, vacuum tank, and air control valve can also be removed. On the electrical side, I taped up the connectors and zip tied them out of the way.
[attachment=93134:air_pump.JPG]
4/10/16 - Mounted the supercharger.
The mounting brackets are easy to assemble and install. There's one on the VTEC solenoid side, and one on the alternator side. After that, the mounting plate gets installed on the supercharger, and the oil inlet/outlet adapters are installed, or re-positioned, since they shipped attached to the supercharger. At this point, the instruction gives you an idea for the orientation of the charger "cover" (painted black) with respect to the rest of the unit. I was worried that I wouldn't have it lined up quite right just based on the pictures shown, but I found that it's possible to adjust once you assemble the mounting plate onto the brackets.
[attachment=93465:sos_brackets.JPG] [attachment=93466:sos_plate.JPG]
Putting the serpentine belt back on was a bit of a pain, especially with a new belt that has less slack. Putting the charger belt on was a breeze, and the tensioner on the idle gear is easy to adjust. I made the mistake of not loosening the nut on the idle gear prior to adjusting the tensioner - that will only cause the tensioner bolt to move, not the gear!
[attachment=93467:sos_mounted1.JPG] [attachment=93468:sos_mounted2.JPG]
4/16/16 - Installed heat exchanger & water pump.
Since I've had experience taking the front bumper off, I thought installing the heat exchanger would be easy. It only has 3 mounting points, but it turned out to be a huge PITA trying to line it up and fasten the bolts. In hindsight, it may have helped to remove the plastic shroud between the bumper and radiator and fasten the 2 top mounting bolts from above.
[attachment=93693:heat_exchanger.JPG]
Since I took out the air pump, I had a lot of room to work with, so I mounted the water pump slightly differently from what was instructed. I think it's pretty clean, and hopefully, it'll turn out to work well. It looks like the 06-08 kit comes with some different hardware for mounting the water pump, which looks like a good option for owners of earlier models who have removed the air pump. Wiring the pump back to the interior fuse box was straight forward, although, I wish SOS had provided a thicker wire.
[attachment=93694:water_pump.JPG]
4/17/16 - Installed aftercooler.
This part isn't too bad, but requires some patience. It helps to get the water hoses lined up. The return line should be trimmed to the correct length (basically it should come up to the compressor outlet). I found that the feed line can be trimmed at the coupler end (near the water pump). With the water hoses connected, it's easiest to couple the aftercooler to the compressor outlet, then rotate it towards the intake manifold.
I'm using the Turbosmart Dual Port BOV with the lightest spring (blue, I think). And since I took out the air pump, I went to pick up a 1/4" NPT plug to plug the air port on the bottom of the aftercooler.
[attachment=94089:aftercooler.JPG]
5/1/16 - First fire.
I adjusted the aftercooler, and it sits closer to the throttle body now. There's about a half inch clearance between the aftercooler body and the alternator mounting bolt. I plugged the 2 holes on the intake elbow (1" for the recycle valve, 5/8" for the air pump line). Last thing I changed out were the plugs (NGK Iridium IX #8, gapped at .032")
[attachment=94272:aftercooler fitted.JPG] [attachment=94273:system overview.JPG]
Since I had already tuned for ID1000's prior to the install, I was able to start the car without making any tuning adjustments. I'll have to gather some data to see if I should make some minor adjustments at idle, but for now, it seems fine. I will start street tuning soon, if the weather holds up this week...
Here's a short video of the car idling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neAqGBMIr4w
3/30/16 - Removed crank pulley, and installed SOS crank pulley & adaptor.
With Rob's (LBPS2K06) help, we broke the crank bolt loose in 5-10 minutes!
1) Put a 10"-12" bar on the crank bolt removal tool, and rest it against a rigid structure.
2) Use a 3/4"-drive breaker bar (48") and impact socket on the bolt. Depending on the bar & socket, it may be easier access to use an extension piece such that the bar ends up between the radiator fan and the cross-member.
3) Give a couple of quick jolts, and the bolt should break loose.
I put the SOS crank pulley on first, and then put the adaptor over it. You should be able to put the adaptor on the crank pulley first, since there's plenty of clearance - no shaving/cutting required.
4/2/16 - Removed front bumper, air control valve, air pump, air pump relay, etc.
To remove the air control valve, remove the 2 bolts holding it in place, the vacuum hose, and the air hose. I capped it with a PuddyMod blank piece. It was recommended in several other threads.
[attachment=93132:air_ctrl_vlv.JPG] [attachment=93133:air_ctrl_vlv_capped.JPG]
Removing the air pump and the relay was pretty simple. I think it was 4 bolts (2 for the air pump bracket, and 2 for the relay). The pump inlet pipes to the air intake, and the outlet pipes to the air control valve. All of that can come out. The vacuum hoses that run from the manifold to the air control valve solenoid, vacuum tank, and air control valve can also be removed. On the electrical side, I taped up the connectors and zip tied them out of the way.
[attachment=93134:air_pump.JPG]
4/10/16 - Mounted the supercharger.
The mounting brackets are easy to assemble and install. There's one on the VTEC solenoid side, and one on the alternator side. After that, the mounting plate gets installed on the supercharger, and the oil inlet/outlet adapters are installed, or re-positioned, since they shipped attached to the supercharger. At this point, the instruction gives you an idea for the orientation of the charger "cover" (painted black) with respect to the rest of the unit. I was worried that I wouldn't have it lined up quite right just based on the pictures shown, but I found that it's possible to adjust once you assemble the mounting plate onto the brackets.
[attachment=93465:sos_brackets.JPG] [attachment=93466:sos_plate.JPG]
Putting the serpentine belt back on was a bit of a pain, especially with a new belt that has less slack. Putting the charger belt on was a breeze, and the tensioner on the idle gear is easy to adjust. I made the mistake of not loosening the nut on the idle gear prior to adjusting the tensioner - that will only cause the tensioner bolt to move, not the gear!
[attachment=93467:sos_mounted1.JPG] [attachment=93468:sos_mounted2.JPG]
4/16/16 - Installed heat exchanger & water pump.
Since I've had experience taking the front bumper off, I thought installing the heat exchanger would be easy. It only has 3 mounting points, but it turned out to be a huge PITA trying to line it up and fasten the bolts. In hindsight, it may have helped to remove the plastic shroud between the bumper and radiator and fasten the 2 top mounting bolts from above.
[attachment=93693:heat_exchanger.JPG]
Since I took out the air pump, I had a lot of room to work with, so I mounted the water pump slightly differently from what was instructed. I think it's pretty clean, and hopefully, it'll turn out to work well. It looks like the 06-08 kit comes with some different hardware for mounting the water pump, which looks like a good option for owners of earlier models who have removed the air pump. Wiring the pump back to the interior fuse box was straight forward, although, I wish SOS had provided a thicker wire.
[attachment=93694:water_pump.JPG]
4/17/16 - Installed aftercooler.
This part isn't too bad, but requires some patience. It helps to get the water hoses lined up. The return line should be trimmed to the correct length (basically it should come up to the compressor outlet). I found that the feed line can be trimmed at the coupler end (near the water pump). With the water hoses connected, it's easiest to couple the aftercooler to the compressor outlet, then rotate it towards the intake manifold.
I'm using the Turbosmart Dual Port BOV with the lightest spring (blue, I think). And since I took out the air pump, I went to pick up a 1/4" NPT plug to plug the air port on the bottom of the aftercooler.
[attachment=94089:aftercooler.JPG]
5/1/16 - First fire.
I adjusted the aftercooler, and it sits closer to the throttle body now. There's about a half inch clearance between the aftercooler body and the alternator mounting bolt. I plugged the 2 holes on the intake elbow (1" for the recycle valve, 5/8" for the air pump line). Last thing I changed out were the plugs (NGK Iridium IX #8, gapped at .032")
[attachment=94272:aftercooler fitted.JPG] [attachment=94273:system overview.JPG]
Since I had already tuned for ID1000's prior to the install, I was able to start the car without making any tuning adjustments. I'll have to gather some data to see if I should make some minor adjustments at idle, but for now, it seems fine. I will start street tuning soon, if the weather holds up this week...
Here's a short video of the car idling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neAqGBMIr4w
03-26-2016, 11:45 AM
#4
Your username looks like a part # to me lol.
Looks like you've already made some good ground work. Good luck, I think you'll really enjoy the results!
What clutch are you going to be using? Also, I'd recommend flushing the fluid in your diff and putting in some fresh Amsoil to help preserve it, if you haven't changed it recently.
Looks like you've already made some good ground work. Good luck, I think you'll really enjoy the results!
What clutch are you going to be using? Also, I'd recommend flushing the fluid in your diff and putting in some fresh Amsoil to help preserve it, if you haven't changed it recently.
03-26-2016, 11:57 AM
#5
I'm running the CC stage 2 clutch. It's been in the car for 10-15k miles. It should be enough for my setup, but we'll see...
I will definitely be replacing fluids along with the install, but right now I'm just trying to get this stubborn crank bolt off!
I will definitely be replacing fluids along with the install, but right now I'm just trying to get this stubborn crank bolt off!
03-26-2016, 12:13 PM
#6
I'm not sure what the CC Stage 2 is rated for... I definitely hope it holds up, because I know how much of a PITA it is to switch out the clutch in our cars.
I seem to remember there's some sort of tip/trick to taking the crank bolt out. I can't honestly remember what I ended up doing. I know you can get removal tools for like $20 that make the job a lot easier; may be a worthwhile investment.
Otherwise just put the car in 6th and try to go full Muscle Beach on that bitch with a breaker bar
