SPAL Extreme performance fan installed
#21
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by passmans2kny,Jul 23 2010, 11:02 PM
oh and im doing them as a push type, i dont think these would fit as puller ones, they r just a little too big, and yes i have no ac, so no condenser
If you don't have AC (and thus no AC pipe running across the crossbeam), then I can't see why they wouldn't fit in the stock location
#22
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well they are reversible so u can do it either way, i prob should have bought 12" ones but i got the 13s, theres a few reasons i wanna do em as a push type, 1 being that these fans would hit my ic pipe, 2 they just dont fit, 3 u wont see the fans. Even if i lost 20% like ur saying im still gonna flow 2496 cfm which should be more than enough, also u dont see many push type set ups
#23
Spec ops, thanks for the review and suggestion! My crappy one fan that came with the Visteon is NOT ENOUGH! although it's a spal fan, there's only one and there's no shroud, so it's not very well designed, especially for a turbo setup/FMIC. With AC on? forget about it!
That being said, is it a direct replacement for the stock radiator shroud w/o modding or cutting?
Passman, does the FR kit fit the OEM radiator without cutting anything?
I'm thinking of just going back to stock for now and utilize this fan with the OEM shroud & AC fan.
Btw Spec, is there a extreme replacenment for the AC fan too? That would be awesome!
Thanks in advance for any info!
That being said, is it a direct replacement for the stock radiator shroud w/o modding or cutting?
Passman, does the FR kit fit the OEM radiator without cutting anything?
I'm thinking of just going back to stock for now and utilize this fan with the OEM shroud & AC fan.
Btw Spec, is there a extreme replacenment for the AC fan too? That would be awesome!
Thanks in advance for any info!
#25
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Sarek,Jul 25 2010, 12:16 AM
Spec ops, thanks for the review and suggestion! My crappy one fan that came with the Visteon is NOT ENOUGH! although it's a spal fan, there's only one and there's no shroud, so it's not very well designed, especially for a turbo setup/FMIC. With AC on? forget about it!
That being said, is it a direct replacement for the stock radiator shroud w/o modding or cutting?
Passman, does the FR kit fit the OEM radiator without cutting anything?
I'm thinking of just going back to stock for now and utilize this fan with the OEM shroud & AC fan.
Btw Spec, is there a extreme replacenment for the AC fan too? That would be awesome!
Thanks in advance for any info!
That being said, is it a direct replacement for the stock radiator shroud w/o modding or cutting?
Passman, does the FR kit fit the OEM radiator without cutting anything?
I'm thinking of just going back to stock for now and utilize this fan with the OEM shroud & AC fan.
Btw Spec, is there a extreme replacenment for the AC fan too? That would be awesome!
Thanks in advance for any info!
(ignore the wiring for now, never got around to hiding it yet...wanted to make sure it worked first)
I used some universal mounting brackets and just cut them to size. As you can see, you do not use the stock radiator shroud (I think that's partially why there is increased flow to the radiator now).
Unfortunatly, they only make 11 / 12 / 16 inch extreme performance fans, the AC fan is a 14" (and fairly powerful too) so no direct replacement. I'm sure a second 12" extreme fan would be just the same if not more powerful and will increase flow to the rad as well.
#26
Thanks guys that looks great (wires ignored )
Passman, I'm using the OEM hoses and clamps. It looks like there's a small leak at the bottom hose and no shroud, etc.
I thought it would just work better with the OEM (I also thought that I would retained the shroud, but it doesn't seem to need it from Spec's results)
I may try a different hose clamp to resolve and maybe keep it.... unless someone wants to trade me their koyo?
Passman, I'm using the OEM hoses and clamps. It looks like there's a small leak at the bottom hose and no shroud, etc.
I thought it would just work better with the OEM (I also thought that I would retained the shroud, but it doesn't seem to need it from Spec's results)
I may try a different hose clamp to resolve and maybe keep it.... unless someone wants to trade me their koyo?
#27
Time for one of the PWR Radiators and dual SPAL fans ( two on the radiator) and one on the PWR air to water intercooler.
During today's race/autoX ( 3 co drivers so no rest for the car) water hit 245 deg F and oil hit 230 deg F
101 ambient Air temps 112 track temp a couple drivers fell out today due to heat related issues.
Even had an water temp related misfire and the car shut down on course on one of the other drivers.
and I already have the:
1/2" thicker then stock Mugen Radiator
mugen thermostat
Mugen fan switch
and Mugen cap.
During today's race/autoX ( 3 co drivers so no rest for the car) water hit 245 deg F and oil hit 230 deg F
101 ambient Air temps 112 track temp a couple drivers fell out today due to heat related issues.
Even had an water temp related misfire and the car shut down on course on one of the other drivers.
and I already have the:
1/2" thicker then stock Mugen Radiator
mugen thermostat
Mugen fan switch
and Mugen cap.
#28
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^with those temps, the koyo R thickness rad is about the only thing that will suffice. its a 2.08" thick CORE. and 4" thick top and bottom collectors. tons more fluid capacity= more time in the rad to cool and more cool fluid on tap.
seen it too many times on poor rx7's and miatas out there. switched all of our Ariive and Drive cars out to the thickest koyo's... even rx7s with their extreme temps were under 220 with enduro and hot laps.
do you run scca? if so, what class? SPO?
seen it too many times on poor rx7's and miatas out there. switched all of our Ariive and Drive cars out to the thickest koyo's... even rx7s with their extreme temps were under 220 with enduro and hot laps.
do you run scca? if so, what class? SPO?
#29
Originally Posted by teamvalorracing,Jul 25 2010, 07:40 PM
more time in the rad to cool and more cool fluid on tap.
do you run scca? if so, what class? SPO?
do you run scca? if so, what class? SPO?
There has got to be sufficient time for the fluid to be exposed to the cooling "sink" medium.
Off Topic
SSM locally but if some on protested me I should be in X prepared due to reinforced frame (+ I am going to stitch weld the frame as soon as the cold weather comes in)
SPO; its getting there the G loads the car is capable is driving a fuel cell up grade. It is a requirement for me to keep the fuel between 3/4 to full or I start to have fuel starvation issues. But the local group does not recognize the SPO classing.
Our local site ( old air port)
Depending on course setup I have hit 100 to 111 before.
The guys keep asking me to do the local "Crow Mountain Hill Climb"
But I like my car to much to risk leaving it on the Mountain.
Time attack last year Nashville ( Import Alliance)
Not using Falkens any more they screwed me over on my sponsorship
Bridgestone RE-01R if I can find them or the RE-11 for street tires
Kumo 710 this year will be stitching over to the Hossires A6 soon
New shop sponsorship in the works as Static X Closed there doors. [/b]
#30
Originally Posted by teamvalorracing,Jul 25 2010, 07:40 PM
^with those temps, the koyo R thickness rad is about the only thing that will suffice. its a 2.08" thick CORE. and 4" thick top and bottom collectors.
PWR6173.
Cant find it on the web except on PWR's Australian website.