Supra PCV install DIY
 

Hello all,

There have been numerous threads on krank vents, catch cans, crank case ventilation, etc. Today a thread was posted about using a PCV valve from a 97 TT Supra. Although it was quite helpful, I figured I could expand on it a bit. So, here is my version of the Supra PCV install on a Honda S2000.

DISCLAIMER - although this is a simple install requiring little mechnical skill, YOU CAN STILL CAUSE MOTOR DAMAGE if you install it improperly. If your motor fails, don't come looking for me!

On to the tutorial.

1) Gather up the parts. Here's what you need:

- 1997 Toyota Supra Turbo PCV valve - Pep Boys sells an OEM replacement: Purolator PV1009M. Cost: $4.79

- 15/32" ID Anti-Smog/PCV hose. $4.49 for 1 foot. You'll use very little.

- 1/2" x 3/8" brass coupler. Cost: $1.93 from Lowes.

- Assorted zip ties / hose clamps.

Attachment 126312

2) Remove the hose between the stock PCV valve and the intake manifold:

Attachment 126313


3) Cut the OEM hose in half. Cut a roughly 3" section of the 15/32" hose you purchased. Lay out your parts as follows:

Attachment 126314

** NOTE ** The larger side (1/2" side) of the PCV valve goes TOWARDS the valve cover. The idea is pressure can escape the crank case, but should not be let in from the intake manifold. To verify, if you blow into the bigger end air will go through but if you blow through the smaller end, air will not pass. If you get this backwards, excess pressure may build in your crank case and cause valvetrain damage. (Photo curteousy of OyATL of S2K Atlanta).

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...l/DSCN4577.jpg

4) Assemble the parts you laid out in step 3:

Attachment 126315

5) Reinstall the new PCV valve assembly. You'll have to trim one of the ends of stock hose as you've increased the overall length by adding a new hose section, coupler and valve:

Attachment 126316

6) Start up your motor and verify there are no leaks.

The jury is out on this mod having any power benefits. There has been evidence to show it might. But above all, this mod is to relieve crank case pressure and save your valueable valvetrain!

If you have any questions, corrections or additions, please let me know.

i've heard something like this is a MUST for FI -- is this true?

Around $11 for an added piece of mind is good enough for me.

Awesome write up Hokie! :woot: :pat:

dumb question.. but what does the supra valve do that the stock one cant?

The short answer to this is, it can't hurt (unless you install it backwards ;-))

The theory is this: with a significant amount of horsepower added over stock, the velocity of air is substaintially higher. Because the stock valve is not designed for that kind of power, the check valve in it can actually let air from the intake manifold back into the crankcase. When this happens, pressure can build and cause seals and gaskets to prematurely fail.

This accomplishes the exact same thing the krankvents do, although at a tenth of the cost!

I wouldn't expect to pick up horsepower. Some claim that because they were losing so much from the stock PCV valve letting air leak that they gained power. There has been conflicting dyno results where I've seen one car picked up 20whp (?) and another picked up none.

So, this is one of those kinds of mods where it's added peace of mind.

It's much stronger, made of metal and built to withstand the pressure from a boosted car.

The only thing I am not 100% on is difference between AP1 and AP2. I know if you look at AP1's they have the plastic elbow type PCV valve but it appears the AP2 has a screw in metal type and I'm not sure if it's any stronger.

Just an FYI - I ran AutoX today, and things ran fine.

thanks for the explanation

I had the supra valves bfore going FI and still have them in. plus its kinda cool to hear the swooooosshhhh when i pull the oil dipstick out :D

Nice write up man! :thumbup: :thumbup: