3D Printed Front Bumper Brake and Intake Cooling Air Ducts
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lab_rat (09-11-2019)
#22
Here are more details on how I'm planning on reducing heat soak in the stock airbox.
The plan is to add an additional source of air to the intake via my duct on the passenger side. By flipping the horn so it mounts to the other side, there's space for this 3D printed 2.5" tube.
I'm very interested to see how much of a difference this makes in the summer once air intake temps get ridiculous here. I'd like to do some IAT and pressure logging with this setup.
I feel like it'll be enough to just create a cool air chamber inside the fender area where the tube is inhaling from. I'm tempted to add some sort of plate that seals the rest of the hole too. Would like to hear some feedback on this!
The plan is to add an additional source of air to the intake via my duct on the passenger side. By flipping the horn so it mounts to the other side, there's space for this 3D printed 2.5" tube.
I'm very interested to see how much of a difference this makes in the summer once air intake temps get ridiculous here. I'd like to do some IAT and pressure logging with this setup.
I feel like it'll be enough to just create a cool air chamber inside the fender area where the tube is inhaling from. I'm tempted to add some sort of plate that seals the rest of the hole too. Would like to hear some feedback on this!
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lab_rat (09-11-2019)
#24
Very cool. I presume the airbox mod requires cutting into it?
And here's a question - how securely are the vents attached to the bumper? Would it be possible to incorporate other mods there, like a license plate mount?
And here's a question - how securely are the vents attached to the bumper? Would it be possible to incorporate other mods there, like a license plate mount?
#25
#26
^ Looks oem
#29
Any update to these or pictures of the airbox and airbox mod outside of the vehicle?
I think if you could do the resonator side so you chop that off and have a way to the air filter it would be good as well but probably not the best to have air flowing in two channels
I think if you could do the resonator side so you chop that off and have a way to the air filter it would be good as well but probably not the best to have air flowing in two channels
#30
I have a rougher, non 3d printed version of this airbox mod. I didn't originate it, been around a while. Mine is a 3" hole in roughly same place on passenger side of airbox. I added a 3" bulkhead duct to the hole, so I could attach an elbow and a 3" flex hose running to that same fender opening.
The plan was to eventually connecting hose to a scoop in radiator opening area. But connecting to a real vent where the fake one is now would be much better.
But I'd prefer if it were a 3" opening instead of just 2.5".
It does seem to make a difference with heat soak and throttle response. It also adds some nice induction noise. Kinda like a toned down version of lidless. Same sound, less volume. Like maybe 40% of the lidless volume (lidless gets old after a week or so of daily use
Just too loud.)
My other eventual plan was to add a flapper valve to the existing stock rectangular airbox opening. That way if engine needed the extra duct, it could pull air from there. But if more air was coming in from cold duct on side of airbox than engine could use, when it tried to blow the excess backwards through the stock rectangular opening, it would just force the flapper valve closed. A simple plastic plate hinged at the top, on the inside of airbox.
That would seem like another ideal part to 3d print. The right rectangular shape and curve to perfectly close against inside of airbox duct. With holes premade to match an appropriate size home depot hinge. No need to spring load it. Let gravity hold it shut.
The plan was to eventually connecting hose to a scoop in radiator opening area. But connecting to a real vent where the fake one is now would be much better.
But I'd prefer if it were a 3" opening instead of just 2.5".
It does seem to make a difference with heat soak and throttle response. It also adds some nice induction noise. Kinda like a toned down version of lidless. Same sound, less volume. Like maybe 40% of the lidless volume (lidless gets old after a week or so of daily use
Just too loud.)
My other eventual plan was to add a flapper valve to the existing stock rectangular airbox opening. That way if engine needed the extra duct, it could pull air from there. But if more air was coming in from cold duct on side of airbox than engine could use, when it tried to blow the excess backwards through the stock rectangular opening, it would just force the flapper valve closed. A simple plastic plate hinged at the top, on the inside of airbox.
That would seem like another ideal part to 3d print. The right rectangular shape and curve to perfectly close against inside of airbox duct. With holes premade to match an appropriate size home depot hinge. No need to spring load it. Let gravity hold it shut.
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Live Fast (11-16-2019)