3D Printing Parts
#11
None of the filament used in hobby-priced 3D printers holds up to the environment in automobiles. Simple problems like heat will warp parts on a sunny afternoon. (Is the ABS part in the earlier photo holding up?) Parts need to be translated to more robust materials than the typical PLA and ABS filaments these printers use. More resilient materials require specialized (AKA expensive) extruders and the software to handle them. Parts can be prototyped in this level printer and then translated to better materials on better printers with a bit of work. The different materials have different shrinkage rates so much of this is trial and error getting the dimensions right.
Very time consuming printing in 3D too. The simple oil filter wrench linked below takes eight (8) hours to print and even the little, weak battery hold-down takes three (3).
A few very simple S2000 printable objects.
-- Chuck
Very time consuming printing in 3D too. The simple oil filter wrench linked below takes eight (8) hours to print and even the little, weak battery hold-down takes three (3).
A few very simple S2000 printable objects.
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; 07-21-2018 at 04:40 AM.
#12
Registered User
A buddy of mine (Jason) who does 3D printed stuff recommended Ultrem 1010 for high temp automotive use as it's rated to 217C Tg (glass transition temperature). He can do just about anything 3D printed. Send him an inquiry if you're interested.
XuRacing@gmail.com
The only thing stopping me from deep diving into 3D printed stuff is a lack of ideas of what exactly I want. As soon as I can think of something that's a good application, my buddy can make it.
So, let's hear those ideas! I can't wait to get some 3D printed stuff in my car!
XuRacing@gmail.com
The only thing stopping me from deep diving into 3D printed stuff is a lack of ideas of what exactly I want. As soon as I can think of something that's a good application, my buddy can make it.
So, let's hear those ideas! I can't wait to get some 3D printed stuff in my car!
#13
Now that 3D printers are very affordable and lots of people have them, I'm wondering if there are any people here who have designed or printed some parts for the S2000. With 3D printed parts being primarily plastic, that limits the possibilities of course. I'm not very creative so I don't know of much that could be made that's not already available for purchase.
I know that eventually I want to make some center caps for my Enkei PF01 wheels, but that will be a while as I have no experience in designing things. There are some center cap designs on Thingiverse that I may try to modify and see if they will work eventually.
I know that eventually I want to make some center caps for my Enkei PF01 wheels, but that will be a while as I have no experience in designing things. There are some center cap designs on Thingiverse that I may try to modify and see if they will work eventually.
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-tes...rack-upgrades/
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-par...t-air-testing/
#14
How are the ducts holding up?
Lots of center caps on Thingiverse and even the simple slicer furnished with my Qidi Tech I can do scaling. Just have to get the scale right and print 3 more of the same which can be done on the same build plate at the same time. Save the pattern (or print another set of four) to replace these when they crumble and fall off. PLA will print beautifully but won't hold up to a center cap environment very long. ABS is more difficult but should last longer.
-- Chuck
Lots of center caps on Thingiverse and even the simple slicer furnished with my Qidi Tech I can do scaling. Just have to get the scale right and print 3 more of the same which can be done on the same build plate at the same time. Save the pattern (or print another set of four) to replace these when they crumble and fall off. PLA will print beautifully but won't hold up to a center cap environment very long. ABS is more difficult but should last longer.
-- Chuck
#16
I put them on and take them off at the track. Have like a dozen track days on them and they are just fine. I have not had any off-track excursions though... I imagine they could be damage if you hit a mound of dirt at high speed or some other hard immovable object.
I made some low-buck versions with aluminum angle and neoprene brake duct hose:
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-par...brake-ducts/3/
I made some low-buck versions with aluminum angle and neoprene brake duct hose:
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-par...brake-ducts/3/
#17
None of the filament used in hobby-priced 3D printers holds up to the environment in automobiles. Simple problems like heat will warp parts on a sunny afternoon. (Is the ABS part in the earlier photo holding up?) Parts need to be translated to more robust materials than the typical PLA and ABS filaments these printers use. More resilient materials require specialized (AKA expensive) extruders and the software to handle them. Parts can be prototyped in this level printer and then translated to better materials on better printers with a bit of work. The different materials have different shrinkage rates so much of this is trial and error getting the dimensions right.
Very time consuming printing in 3D too. The simple oil filter wrench linked below takes eight (8) hours to print and even the little, weak battery hold-down takes three (3).
A few very simple S2000 printable objects.
-- Chuck
Very time consuming printing in 3D too. The simple oil filter wrench linked below takes eight (8) hours to print and even the little, weak battery hold-down takes three (3).
A few very simple S2000 printable objects.
-- Chuck
#18
How 'bout based on my personal experience? Sun warped some PLA parts I had just sitting in the car. However the simple 2" square trailer tow filler plug is holding up OK but the printed bolt didn't do well -- may need more fill.
What material are you using?
-- Chuck
What material are you using?
-- Chuck
#19
PLA, PETG, ABS. I've done it all.
I've done PC, Ultem, Nylon, Aluminum, and much more at work. I'm considered an additive subject matter expert in my field.
There are tricks to do PLA for even in car stuff and it will not warp. ABS is pretty much fine right out of the box.
Sorry to be a little on edge, but this is very much a hobby of user knowledge rather than printer sufficiency. I can print the same quality as the $900k Fortus machines I use at work with even my home built printer.
I've done PC, Ultem, Nylon, Aluminum, and much more at work. I'm considered an additive subject matter expert in my field.
There are tricks to do PLA for even in car stuff and it will not warp. ABS is pretty much fine right out of the box.
Sorry to be a little on edge, but this is very much a hobby of user knowledge rather than printer sufficiency. I can print the same quality as the $900k Fortus machines I use at work with even my home built printer.
#20
Thread Starter
PLA, PETG, ABS. I've done it all.
I've done PC, Ultem, Nylon, Aluminum, and much more at work. I'm considered an additive subject matter expert in my field.
There are tricks to do PLA for even in car stuff and it will not warp. ABS is pretty much fine right out of the box.
Sorry to be a little on edge, but this is very much a hobby of user knowledge rather than printer sufficiency. I can print the same quality as the $900k Fortus machines I use at work with even my home built printer.
I've done PC, Ultem, Nylon, Aluminum, and much more at work. I'm considered an additive subject matter expert in my field.
There are tricks to do PLA for even in car stuff and it will not warp. ABS is pretty much fine right out of the box.
Sorry to be a little on edge, but this is very much a hobby of user knowledge rather than printer sufficiency. I can print the same quality as the $900k Fortus machines I use at work with even my home built printer.