ATS mission final gear *DIY included!*
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 151
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From: Joliette, Qc. CANADA
ATS mission final gear *DIY included!*
I received and installed ATS's mission final gear (secondary drive gear) in my 04 AP2 a few days ago.
Beautiful product, I can tell quality is top notch.
http://www.ppi-ats.com/Gears/Mission%20Final.html
I chose that route mainly because I use my S2k on the street quite a bit and the combination of highway revs with a 4.44 ratio and a loud exhaust worried me so 4.30 seemed like a good compromise.
Secondly I didn't want to screw around in the rear diff. The install of this gear is so much easier and doesn't require much experience like a diff does.
I also liked the fact that this will not make the driveshaft and diff spin any faster than they did stock compared to a diff final drive since the reduction is in the tranny.
It was also cheaper.
SCROLL DOWN FOR DIY. I SUGGEST THIS DIY SHOULD GO IN THE LIBRARY.
I will keep you guys updated on the results on the street in April and on track early May. I know, Canadian winters suck...
Beautiful product, I can tell quality is top notch.
http://www.ppi-ats.com/Gears/Mission%20Final.html
I chose that route mainly because I use my S2k on the street quite a bit and the combination of highway revs with a 4.44 ratio and a loud exhaust worried me so 4.30 seemed like a good compromise.
Secondly I didn't want to screw around in the rear diff. The install of this gear is so much easier and doesn't require much experience like a diff does.
I also liked the fact that this will not make the driveshaft and diff spin any faster than they did stock compared to a diff final drive since the reduction is in the tranny.
It was also cheaper.
SCROLL DOWN FOR DIY. I SUGGEST THIS DIY SHOULD GO IN THE LIBRARY.
I will keep you guys updated on the results on the street in April and on track early May. I know, Canadian winters suck...
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
I received and installed ATS's mission final gear (secondary drive gear) in my 04 AP2 a few days ago.
Beautiful product, I can tell quality is top notch.
http://www.ppi-ats.com/Gears/Mission%20Final.html
Installation went well, not difficult. About 3 hours.
I could do a DIY, any interest?
I chose that route mainly because I use my S2k on the street quite a bit and the combination of highway revs with a 4.44 ratio and a loud exhaust worried me so 4.30 seemed like a good compromise.
Secondly I didn't want to screw around in the rear diff. The install of this gear is so much easier and doesn't require much experience like a diff does.
I also liked the fact that this will not make the driveshaft and diff spin any faster than they did stock compared to a diff final drive since the reduction is in the tranny.
It was also cheaper.
I will keep you guys updated on the results on the street in April and on track early May. I know, Canadian winters suck...
Beautiful product, I can tell quality is top notch.
http://www.ppi-ats.com/Gears/Mission%20Final.html
Installation went well, not difficult. About 3 hours.
I could do a DIY, any interest?
I chose that route mainly because I use my S2k on the street quite a bit and the combination of highway revs with a 4.44 ratio and a loud exhaust worried me so 4.30 seemed like a good compromise.
Secondly I didn't want to screw around in the rear diff. The install of this gear is so much easier and doesn't require much experience like a diff does.
I also liked the fact that this will not make the driveshaft and diff spin any faster than they did stock compared to a diff final drive since the reduction is in the tranny.
It was also cheaper.
I will keep you guys updated on the results on the street in April and on track early May. I know, Canadian winters suck...
I had been wondering if such gears were available. But, to change the ratio the other way. I'd like to at least a 10% reduction in engine RPM (turbo)
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 151
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From: Joliette, Qc. CANADA
Yes it's a single gear replacement for AP2. Since there is only 1 tooth difference it works fine with the output shaft oem gear. Maybe just a difference in backslash, I'm no gear expert.
Do you have AP1 or AP2?
Do you have AP1 or AP2?
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
I have an AP2. I wrote the ATS guys to see if it's possible to go the other way. Otherwise I'll have to change rear gears.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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I would like to go the other way too, and have considered swapping in an AP1 secondary gear set. However, it would be nice if someone would offer a gear that doesn't require swapping in the AP1 shaft. I assume the effort to swap both would be significantly higher.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 151
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From: Joliette, Qc. CANADA
ATS AP2 S2000 mission final gear installation DIY
If you need a DIY to change your oil this is NOT for you. I am not responsible for any problems.
Not difficult if you do most of the work on your car yourself and have the proper tools.
A shop manual for consulting and torque specs is suggested.
Special tools needed : pullers (I used 2 sizes), gear puller, 38 mm socket and a new 29mm countershaft nut from Honda:
-First put your car up on stands, high enough to be comfortable working underneath it. Or a lift if you are lucky...
-Remove transmission filler plug and oil drain plug, let it empty itself while you start in the car.
-Remove shifter knob and center console.
-Put in neutral.
-Remove rubber boot with a flat screwdriver where there are point marks on the plastic ring (stick in and pull in while pulling up on plastic ring with hook):
-Remove shifter by removing 3 bolts under another rubber boot:
-Support transmission with jack and wood bloc:
-Detach driveshaft, driveshaft support, and let it hang or completely remove drive shaft.
-Remove transmission mount bolts.
-Remove 4 bolts holding shifter dust boot to the tunnel underneath.
-Lower transmission about an inch or two for easier access of the 4 bolts holding the shifter base inside:
-Remove bolts and shifter base from underneath. There are dowel pins so you might have to lower transmission a bit more.
-Push shifter linkage forward (3rd gear) and remove bolt and bracket:
-Pull shifter linkage back to neutral with a screwdriver, the driveshaft flange should rotate freely underneath.
-Loosen transmission end cover bolts in a cross pattern.
-Completely remove them, push O2 sensor wire brackets back out of the way.
-Use a pry bar or large flat screwdriver and detach transmission cover slightly, breaking the gasket seal.
-Pull gently to remove cover, be careful for lower pump gear not to fall. Remove oil pump gear. You should end up with this (oil pump gear removed):
-"Un-stake" the 29mm nut (I used a chisel and a hammer):
-Put in 1st gear and lock front crank pulley bolt with a ratchet:
-Remove 29mm countershaft nut (CLOCKWISE!!!) with a long ratchet.
-Remove spring washer.
-Install bearing puller:
-Pull bearing off:
-Pull gear off:
-Align ATS gear and tap in (I used a large socket and hammer). You will feel it when it's all the way in, confirm with pump gear alignment on small sprocket:
-Align bearing and tap in:
-Reinstall spring washer conic side up.
-Lock front crank pulley bolt the opposite way.
-Install new 29mm nut COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, torque to 127 ft/pnds, stake the nut.
-Clean surfaces from oem gasket sealer with a razor blade and solvent (brake cleaner), do not scratch.
-Put transmission in neutral.
-Reinstall pump shaft and gear.
-Put gasket sealer and realign cover with dowel pins, push in.
-Reinstall bolts, the 2 long ones go where the dowel pins are.
-Tighten gently in a cross pattern and torque to 20 ft/pnds in a cross pattern.
-Reassemble rest in reverse order of disassembly. Grease shifter pivot and base, torque shifter rod bracket bolt to 30 ft/pnds.
-Have a beer.
If you need a DIY to change your oil this is NOT for you. I am not responsible for any problems.
Not difficult if you do most of the work on your car yourself and have the proper tools.
A shop manual for consulting and torque specs is suggested.
Special tools needed : pullers (I used 2 sizes), gear puller, 38 mm socket and a new 29mm countershaft nut from Honda:
-First put your car up on stands, high enough to be comfortable working underneath it. Or a lift if you are lucky...
-Remove transmission filler plug and oil drain plug, let it empty itself while you start in the car.
-Remove shifter knob and center console.
-Put in neutral.
-Remove rubber boot with a flat screwdriver where there are point marks on the plastic ring (stick in and pull in while pulling up on plastic ring with hook):
-Remove shifter by removing 3 bolts under another rubber boot:
-Support transmission with jack and wood bloc:
-Detach driveshaft, driveshaft support, and let it hang or completely remove drive shaft.
-Remove transmission mount bolts.
-Remove 4 bolts holding shifter dust boot to the tunnel underneath.
-Lower transmission about an inch or two for easier access of the 4 bolts holding the shifter base inside:
-Remove bolts and shifter base from underneath. There are dowel pins so you might have to lower transmission a bit more.
-Push shifter linkage forward (3rd gear) and remove bolt and bracket:
-Pull shifter linkage back to neutral with a screwdriver, the driveshaft flange should rotate freely underneath.
-Loosen transmission end cover bolts in a cross pattern.
-Completely remove them, push O2 sensor wire brackets back out of the way.
-Use a pry bar or large flat screwdriver and detach transmission cover slightly, breaking the gasket seal.
-Pull gently to remove cover, be careful for lower pump gear not to fall. Remove oil pump gear. You should end up with this (oil pump gear removed):
-"Un-stake" the 29mm nut (I used a chisel and a hammer):
-Put in 1st gear and lock front crank pulley bolt with a ratchet:
-Remove 29mm countershaft nut (CLOCKWISE!!!) with a long ratchet.
-Remove spring washer.
-Install bearing puller:
-Pull bearing off:
-Pull gear off:
-Align ATS gear and tap in (I used a large socket and hammer). You will feel it when it's all the way in, confirm with pump gear alignment on small sprocket:
-Align bearing and tap in:
-Reinstall spring washer conic side up.
-Lock front crank pulley bolt the opposite way.
-Install new 29mm nut COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, torque to 127 ft/pnds, stake the nut.
-Clean surfaces from oem gasket sealer with a razor blade and solvent (brake cleaner), do not scratch.
-Put transmission in neutral.
-Reinstall pump shaft and gear.
-Put gasket sealer and realign cover with dowel pins, push in.
-Reinstall bolts, the 2 long ones go where the dowel pins are.
-Tighten gently in a cross pattern and torque to 20 ft/pnds in a cross pattern.
-Reassemble rest in reverse order of disassembly. Grease shifter pivot and base, torque shifter rod bracket bolt to 30 ft/pnds.
-Have a beer.