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Mine never slides well, as its difficult to align both sides, left rail and right rail, when final tighten mounting bolts to floor. They aren't perfectly parallel. So seat binds in rails as it slides.
Maybe this is your issue. If it is, loosening the mounting boots you can reach, front ones, should alleviate. Allow rails to rotate on rear mounting bolts to become parallel as seat is slid.
It'd still be a fight, as rear bolts still tight, so seat woukd need to use leverage of length of rail as a crude wrench to loosen bolts enough become parallel as it slides.
So maybe help it along by grabbing rail at front and wiggle them, try slide again.
Following up; you're the GOAT for this. I got mine out by doing exactly what you said. Glad this nightmare saga is over! Rails and seats are now sold. Hopefully PCI sliders don't get stuck like these things...
Why can't you just use rear bolts with lower heads?
In my case and in the cases of most others with the rails, it's not the bolts causing a binding issue, instead, it's the rail mechanism itself; it's very finnicky. If the rails get even slightly out of alignment and aren't perfectly parallel, the slider mechanism will not work. I did my due diligence installing these rails & seats because I had educated myself ahead of time; they still got stuck. BYS rails are neat, but they don't make as massive of a difference as you'd be lead to believe. Definitely not worth the hassle after having had the rails on both seats; both of which, got stuck...
I think the only fix would be to allow one rail to be floating. Like add a sleeve to both bolts on one side, where bolt can be torqued down into sleeve so bolt doesn't loosen, yet sleeve is slightly taller than rail bracket, yet narrower than bracket bolt hole. This might require enlarging bolt hole on that rail.
This would allow one rail to float and not cause binding. Allow rail to actually slide without throwing out your back.
The seat would be able to move up and down on that side, so sleeve would need to be just barely taller than bracket.
Another option might be to weld or bolt cross braces at front and rear connecting one rail to the other, being extremely careful to make sure rails are locked perfect in parallel.
In my case and in the cases of most others with the rails, it's not the bolts causing a binding issue, instead, it's the rail mechanism itself; it's very finnicky. If the rails get even slightly out of alignment and aren't perfectly parallel, the slider mechanism will not work. I did my due diligence installing these rails & seats because I had educated myself ahead of time; they still got stuck. BYS rails are neat, but they don't make as massive of a difference as you'd be lead to believe. Definitely not worth the hassle after having had the rails on both seats; both of which, got stuck...
Ever since I incorporated my fix, I haven't had any issues. It limits mobility but it hasn't gotten stuck at all. No complaints since.
I just ran into this issue myself with a new installation. The rear floor bolt on the inboard side (closest to the tunnel) was interfering with the rail, preventing the seat from sliding back fully (and getting stuck if slid forcefully).
I bought some lower profile bolts at Ace Hardware, and now the seat slides without issue.
Photo attached for reference. Stock bolt on the left. New bolt & spring washer on the right.
Thread Pitch & Length: M10-1.25 x 20
Last edited by seawolfxix; Nov 11, 2024 at 05:56 AM.
This is one of those threads that make forums so special! I finally removed mine after fighting it like no other. Advice to future readers, spray and respray the silicone spray, keep trying, don't give up.
When you get the fronts removed, keep wiggling both rails as much as you physically can.
