Brake rotor upgrade - Lightweight brake rotor options?
#12
Registered User
You're going to crack your expensive lightweight rotors just the same. The only way to stop this is to keep your rotors cooler under stress - which either means going easier on them or installing a brake duct system for track use.
#15
Registered User
Anything is possible, but the take home point was that thermal stress cracks rotors and the only way to reduce or eliminate cracking is to keep rotors cooler. Ducting keeps rotors cooler, but may or may not eliminate cracking depending on any one of about a dozen different variables. Spending huge money on rotors while not doing something for cooling is silly.
99% of the owners of this car will never crack a brake rotor so the point is moot for most people.
Getting back to the heart of the OP's question... Multi-piece rotors are going to the only real way of savings weight on brakes - and even then it's a LOT of money for not much benefit. General consensus is to save weight elsewhere.
99% of the owners of this car will never crack a brake rotor so the point is moot for most people.
Getting back to the heart of the OP's question... Multi-piece rotors are going to the only real way of savings weight on brakes - and even then it's a LOT of money for not much benefit. General consensus is to save weight elsewhere.
#16
Thanks for all the replies. That helps. I was hoping that some of the vaned rotors would be ligher without having slots or cross drilling. Sounds like i should stick with stock or something similar. I dont currently plan to do anything more than occasional track use. Are there any recommended brake mods for cheap that are worth doing? I will be replacing pads and getting rotors replaced or ground. Should i go stock or upgrade?
#17
BTW the Spoon rotors seem to be some of the lightest saving around 2.5 lbs front for over $200 a rotor. But they are drilled which i dont want.
http://www.nengun.com/spoon/brake-rotors
http://www.nengun.com/spoon/brake-rotors
#18
I would probably go this route:
Rotors: Bosch Lifetime Warranty from Oreilly or Autozone Duralast (2 yrs)
Pads: Project mU HC+800 or Hawk HP+ (Front and rear)
Lines: this doesn't matter stop tech, good ridge, technafit
Fluid: Castrol SRF or Torque RT700
If it's been awhile since your calipers have been serviced I would suggest:
-brushing off the brake dust
-lubing the guide pins with honda urea grease
-honda pistol rebuild kit with new piston boots
but just be aware as they saying goes, brakes don't stop cars, tires do - so if your tires are crap don't expect your car to stop any better
Rotors: Bosch Lifetime Warranty from Oreilly or Autozone Duralast (2 yrs)
Pads: Project mU HC+800 or Hawk HP+ (Front and rear)
Lines: this doesn't matter stop tech, good ridge, technafit
Fluid: Castrol SRF or Torque RT700
If it's been awhile since your calipers have been serviced I would suggest:
-brushing off the brake dust
-lubing the guide pins with honda urea grease
-honda pistol rebuild kit with new piston boots
but just be aware as they saying goes, brakes don't stop cars, tires do - so if your tires are crap don't expect your car to stop any better
#19
BTW the Spoon rotors seem to be some of the lightest saving around 2.5 lbs front for over $200 a rotor. But they are drilled which i dont want.
http://www.nengun.com/spoon/brake-rotors
http://www.nengun.com/spoon/brake-rotors