S2000 Modifications and Parts Discussions about aftermarket products and parts including reviews, information and opinion.

DIY Rotors and Brake Lines

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-21-2012, 05:19 PM
  #1  

Thread Starter
 
s2000ellier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,223
Received 80 Likes on 60 Posts
Default DIY Rotors and Brake Lines

This DIY will cover the installation of front and rear rotors as well as brake lines.

Special tools used:
Impact screwdriver - $10 from your local auto parts store
10mm Flared nut wrench - $5 from your local auto parts store
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-tpoc9l.jpg

New parts:
Generic zinc plated and slotted rotors - $150 from various vendors
Challenge Stainless steel brake lines - $110 from various vendors
Name:  Lu77sl.jpg
Views: 253
Size:  40.2 KB

Torque numbers from the manual:
Name:  5HzcKl.jpg
Views: 320
Size:  18.3 KB
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-iwnawl.jpg

Step 1:

Loosen your lug nuts and put the car on jack stands then remove your wheels. You should see this:
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-qnsxml.jpg

Step 2:

Press the impact screwdriver firmly in the Philips head screw. Ensure the bit is lined up perfectly then smite the driver like Oden smites a Frost Giant. Repeat for the other screw. If the screws are not budging give them a blast with some penetrating oil.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-x4pzzl.jpg

Now that the rotor screws are out you should see this.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-fhrn8l.jpg

Step 3:

Next loosen the flared nut from the brake hard line to the brake line. Use a 10mm flared nut wrench. When re-installing this is torqued to 11lbs-ft
Name:  KcOTsl.jpg
Views: 235
Size:  43.1 KB

Don't remove the hard line yet.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-a2rl5l.jpg

Step 4:

Remove the brake line clip that holds the soft line in place. Just grab the edge with your pliers and yank from side to side until it comes off.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-alrqpl.jpg

Step 5:

Now that the clip is removed you can pull the hard and soft lines apart. I put the end of the hard line into a nylon tube so that and remaining fluids drain into a container.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-lfcpcl.jpg

Step 6:

Now its time to remove the brake pads so loosen the bottom caliper pin so that you can rotate up the caliper and remove the pads.
The caliper pin is 12mm
Name:  DehkXl.jpg
Views: 233
Size:  36.5 KB

Rotate the caliper up and remove the pads. They should pull right out, wiggle them if they are getting stuck.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-cy7yxl.jpg

Step 7:

Next, remove the brake line mounting bolt. The bolt is 12mm

Name:  ljg3Ll.jpg
Views: 230
Size:  35.2 KB

Step 8:

Now comes the muscle part. The caliper bracket mounting bolts are torqued at 79lbs-ft. I'd recommend a 6 point socket or box end wrench. Use a breaker bar or hit it with a hammer. The bolts are 17mm and are on tight.
Name:  lWZYRl.jpg
Views: 223
Size:  34.3 KB
Name:  CZFQNl.jpg
Views: 240
Size:  50.8 KB

Step 9:

The caliper can now be removed from the hub and clear the rotor. So remove it and put it on the ground.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-foylzl.jpg

Step 10:

Remove the brake line from the caliper. The bolt is 12mm. Have a rag ready in case any fluid leaks out
Name:  QPAlnl.jpg
Views: 224
Size:  50.3 KB

Wipe the area clean and dry once the line is removed.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-vrbyjl.jpg

Step 11:

Give the rotor a Bruce Lee palm strike to knock it loose.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-ruoznl.jpg

Wiggle the rotor until it comes off.
Name:  7yjVGl.jpg
Views: 232
Size:  37.8 KB


Step 12:

Connect your new brake line to the hard line. I recommend pushing the new brake line up and threading the hard line with your finger to make sure you are threading it correctly.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-do03bl.jpg

Now use your flared wrench and a 17mm wrench to tighten the brake lines to what you think 11lbs-ft is
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-hlxb3l.jpg

Step 13:

Re-install the brake line clip
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-92le0l.jpg

I tapped it with a flat head screwdriver and hammer to seat it fully
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-kyshkl.jpg
Old 03-21-2012, 05:19 PM
  #2  

Thread Starter
 
s2000ellier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,223
Received 80 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

Step 14:

Hold the caliper against the hub and start threading the two 17mm bolts. Evenly torque the two nuts down to 79lbs-ft
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-srf62l.jpg

Step 15:

Use a clamp to push back the piston in the caliper allowing it to clear the new rotors and put your pads back in.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-dvgpfl.jpg

Step 16:

Insert the new bolt and washer on the new brake line then thread the bolt into the caliper. The new bolt was 14mm and torqued to 25lbs-ft
Name:  LbkCZl.jpg
Views: 223
Size:  42.6 KB

Step 17:

Re-install the 10mm bolt from the brake line mounting tab. The torque is 7lbs-ft
Name:  Btay6l.jpg
Views: 228
Size:  44.0 KB

Step 18:

Re-install the 12mm caliper bolt. Make sure you stuck your pads in already. Torque is 24lbs-ft
Name:  IjaXEl.jpg
Views: 230
Size:  41.1 KB
Old 03-21-2012, 05:20 PM
  #3  

Thread Starter
 
s2000ellier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,223
Received 80 Likes on 60 Posts
Default

On to the rears:


Step 1
Wheels off parking brake off and on jack stands again line up the impact driver and whack the rotor screws free.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-swifll.jpg

Step 2
Break loose the nut on the hard brake line
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-sllvhl.jpg

Step 3
Remove the clip holding the soft line to the body. Put the end of the hard line into a nylon tubing so it doesn't drip on you.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-2lzpbl.jpg

Step 4
Remove the top caliper bolt pull down the caliper and remove the pads. Close the caliper and insert the bolt back in
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-qdms0l.jpg

Step 5
Remove the parking brake cover, two 10 mm bolts, then remove the two 10mm brake line mounting bolts
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-ldfaql.jpg
Name:  QqZ77l.jpg
Views: 228
Size:  26.1 KB

Step 6
Remove the brake line from the caliper, 14mm bolt. Have a rag ready to catch any fluid and put the brake line on the ground.
Name:  TjbP7l.jpg
Views: 222
Size:  45.3 KB

Step 7
Remove the two 14mm caliper bracket bolts.
Name:  OsJAgl.jpg
Views: 223
Size:  38.7 KB
Name:  M9tKTl.jpg
Views: 223
Size:  33.0 KB

Step 8
Place the caliper on the lower control arm. Do not let it dangle by the parking brake line.
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-n15dml.jpg

Step 9
Knock the old rotor loose and remove it
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-sdipll.jpg
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-lugphl.jpg

Step 10
Install your new rotor and install the rotor screws
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-iyi81l.jpg

Step 11
Re-install your caliper with the two 14mm nuts, torque each nut to 41lbf-ft

Step 12
Connect your new brake line to the hard line and thread it finger tight
Name:  9rV4Nl.jpg
Views: 226
Size:  32.9 KB

Step 13
Torque the brake hard line nut to what you think is 11lbf-ft using your 10mm flared nut wrench
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-ybg86l.jpg

Step 14
Insert the brake line clip
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-v9oj1l.jpg

Step 15
Position the new brake line on the caliper and tighten the 14mm bolt to 25lbf-ft
DIY Rotors and Brake Lines-hfkxrl.jpg
Name:  xgVttl.jpg
Views: 229
Size:  47.9 KB


Step 16
Mount the brake line mounting tab to the caliper. Two 10mm bolts, 7lbf-ft. Re-install the parking brake cover
Name:  HWnYWl.jpg
Views: 221
Size:  29.2 KB
Old 04-07-2012, 07:30 PM
  #4  
Registered User

 
s2guru's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ft myers, FL
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thank you so much for this excellent DIY guide, Can you tell us about the flush and bleed procedure?
Old 04-07-2012, 08:50 PM
  #5  
Registered User

 
s2000maniac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,032
Received 14 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

Thanks soo much. Can the mods please sticky this if not already done so, thanks
Old 08-07-2012, 09:59 PM
  #6  

 
Timbagoo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wheaton, Il
Posts: 732
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I'm going to be doing this later in the week. Awesome write-up!
Old 08-08-2012, 04:55 AM
  #7  
Registered User

 
aeonracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Perfect write up. I just did my front rotors this weekend and can confirm the steps.

I do have a couple of tips:

1) I would recommend putting those pesky rotor retainer screws back in with the new rotors. I had initially not intended on putting them back in after getting them out but then I noticed that even with everything tightened down the rotor did slightly move when the brakes were applied. Because the lug nut bolts holes in the rotor are slightly oversized, the rotor is allowed to rotate on the hub every so slightly (yes, even with the wheel installed). I personally didn't like that, so I put some anti sieze compound on the screw and put them back in, and it completely eliminated any rotor movement.

2) Ideally, you want to put new brake pads in with new rotors, but it isn't absolutely necessary. Just don't forget to take it easy the first few hundred miles with your old pads / new rotors. The old pads are broken into the old rotors, so you'll need to give the old pads some time to seat themselves onto the new rotors. Until they fully seat, your braking performance will be slightly degraded.

3) Once you put everything back together, your brakes might feel spongy / light. Just pump the brake pedal a few times to get the pads to seat back up against the rotors and get the fluid to stabilize in the lines. Check your brake fluid level after this and add fluid as necessary.

4) Because I'm OCD, I sprayed my new calipers with rustoleum. I hate rust, hate it. I sprayed the inside of the hub area and the outside of the hub area, and the outer diameter of the rotors. I didn't worry about overspray as it will wear off in time, and it provides me a sort of "wear marker" to tell me when the rotors / pads are seated.
Old 08-08-2012, 07:01 AM
  #8  

 
Driven's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 3,045
Received 45 Likes on 34 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by aeonracer
1) I would recommend putting those pesky rotor retainer screws back in with the new rotors.
And counter-point. I hate these things and make a point to remove them from every car I own. They do virtually nothing, other than hold the rotor in place while you bolt everything up. If the rotor is moving while you have the wheels on and torqued down, you have bigger problems. In other words, they are not needed whatsoever. Avoid future frustration and just leave them out.

Also, for step 15, pushing the front caliper piston back into the caliper... Tip: use the old brake pads against the piston. This will prevent any marring of the piston that could happen with the c-clamp.

Finally, for the rear calipers, there's no mention of how to push the piston back in. The best way is to have the brake piston tool, but if you don't have it... a 3/8 ratchet will work. Just leave the socket off, stick the end into the grooves in the piston, and twist it back in.

Great write-up and pictures. Surprised someone hasn't done this before (or has, but it's hiding). Hopefully the photos can be hosted somewhere that won't disappear after 8 months
Old 08-08-2012, 10:51 AM
  #9  
Registered User

 
s2000maniac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,032
Received 14 Likes on 13 Posts
Default

sticky this thread please...
Old 08-08-2012, 12:25 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
spdoran's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

This write up is so helpful. I was just about to do this myself so it couldn't have come at a better time. Thank you so much for taking the time to do all of this.


Quick Reply: DIY Rotors and Brake Lines



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:16 AM.