flywheel bolts... help
05-05-2017, 08:54 PM
#12
Bolt (12mm)
I work in the Engine plant in Canada and current model 2.0L, 2.4L bolts actually come oiled no loctite here.They are installed by a robot but I work in final repair and we do not angle these bolts. Could be different on the S. My 2 cents.
Part Number: 90011-PCX-B01
05-01-2019, 08:55 AM
#13
Hi All, I did a ton of searching on here and am very confused and had to resserect this thread to get some more info.
My stock AP1 clutch @ 132k is giving out. I purchased a competition clutch and am having a hard time finding the best flywheel bolts for the pressure plate and crank with ARP. Problem is I am not technical at all.
I called ARP and they are asking me the following info on the bolts: head height, shoulder length, thread length, under head length, thread size, socket size, flange (dont know what this is).
Can someone please help me and post me a link for me? SO confused.
My stock AP1 clutch @ 132k is giving out. I purchased a competition clutch and am having a hard time finding the best flywheel bolts for the pressure plate and crank with ARP. Problem is I am not technical at all.
I called ARP and they are asking me the following info on the bolts: head height, shoulder length, thread length, under head length, thread size, socket size, flange (dont know what this is).
Can someone please help me and post me a link for me? SO confused.
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apextc (05-02-2019)
05-01-2019, 09:21 AM
#15
They are being very pedantic, and asking you to supply every spec for the bolt. The threaded part they want to know how long it is, how thick it is, and what the threads need to be (how far apart one thread is from the next, etc).
For the bolt head they want to know how thick it is, and if it has a flange or not.
Its kinda ridiculous. If you knew all these details, you wouldn't need their help to order the bolts!
But I gotta ask. What makes you think stock clutch is inadequate?
What makes you think stock flywheel bolts are inadequate?
Unless you're running a lot of boost, stock clutch is very good. If you want a bit of upgrade, use an act pressure plate and everything else stock. Make sure you use Honda parts. There is a clutch called Exedy oem, and its not oem and it sucks.
For the bolt head they want to know how thick it is, and if it has a flange or not.
Its kinda ridiculous. If you knew all these details, you wouldn't need their help to order the bolts!
But I gotta ask. What makes you think stock clutch is inadequate?
What makes you think stock flywheel bolts are inadequate?
Unless you're running a lot of boost, stock clutch is very good. If you want a bit of upgrade, use an act pressure plate and everything else stock. Make sure you use Honda parts. There is a clutch called Exedy oem, and its not oem and it sucks.
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apextc (05-02-2019)
05-01-2019, 10:15 AM
#16
They are being very pedantic, and asking you to supply every spec for the bolt. The threaded part they want to know how long it is, how thick it is, and what the threads need to be (how far apart one thread is from the next, etc).
For the bolt head they want to know how thick it is, and if it has a flange or not.
Its kinda ridiculous. If you knew all these details, you wouldn't need their help to order the bolts!
But I gotta ask. What makes you think stock clutch is inadequate?
What makes you think stock flywheel bolts are inadequate?
Unless you're running a lot of boost, stock clutch is very good. If you want a bit of upgrade, use an act pressure plate and everything else stock. Make sure you use Honda parts. There is a clutch called Exedy oem, and its not oem and it sucks.
For the bolt head they want to know how thick it is, and if it has a flange or not.
Its kinda ridiculous. If you knew all these details, you wouldn't need their help to order the bolts!
But I gotta ask. What makes you think stock clutch is inadequate?
What makes you think stock flywheel bolts are inadequate?
Unless you're running a lot of boost, stock clutch is very good. If you want a bit of upgrade, use an act pressure plate and everything else stock. Make sure you use Honda parts. There is a clutch called Exedy oem, and its not oem and it sucks.
When I purchased the car (year 2000) with 125k miles I decided I want to at some point, make this the best every day summer daily driver in Chicago that is focused on excellent handling. As I replace the clutch kit I figured I should spend some $ as my goal is to keep the car and put the best parts possible as I upgrade along the way.
The goals for this car are: Supercharge, install coilovers, replace rims and tires and paint/wrap it (all in stages). When I purchased the car the previous owner sold it as a package of car and turbo kit. I sold the turbo and kept the clutch kit, injectors and differential for when I supercharge it.
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY!
05-01-2019, 10:23 AM
#17
You guys just jumped to the conclusion that you need aftermarket bolts?
1. You are not suppose to reuse the stock bolts more then once.
2. You should be torquing the bolts down.
3. You should be using thread locker on the bolts
4. This also goes for the PP
5. ARP won't be any less prone to backing out if not installed correctly to start (other then being new)
2. You should be torquing the bolts down.
3. You should be using thread locker on the bolts
4. This also goes for the PP
5. ARP won't be any less prone to backing out if not installed correctly to start (other then being new)
You can re use the bolts.
The torque spec is only valid for the exact condition that the manual calls for.
Loctite will alter the torque/tension relationship. If you call and ask Henkel how much the friction factor changes, they will likely tell you to determine via experimentation.
It *might* not cause harm to use it in the real world. But why would you want to use it? You plan to count on an anaerobic sealant to retain FLYWHEEL bolts??
That's like using a set of suspenders as an additional safety strap for an elevator. The argument of "well they can't hurt to use" is technically true. But...why TF is that part of your safety equation...and why TF are you relying on that?
You should be counting on an absolutely clinical installation. Not loctite.
OP...you should probably find out what your friend did wrong. Those bolts don't come loose from the factory. So why do his come loose?
When shifting gears when I rev the engine the car does not accelerate. I'm assuming that's the clutch?
When I purchased the car (year 2000) with 125k miles I decided I want to at some point, make this the best every day summer daily driver in Chicago that is focused on excellent handling. As I replace the clutch kit I figured I should spend some $ as my goal is to keep the car and put the best parts possible as I upgrade along the way.
The goals for this car are: Supercharge, install coilovers, replace rims and tires and paint/wrap it (all in stages). When I purchased the car the previous owner sold it as a package of car and turbo kit. I sold the turbo and kept the clutch kit, injectors and differential for when I supercharge it.
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY!
When I purchased the car (year 2000) with 125k miles I decided I want to at some point, make this the best every day summer daily driver in Chicago that is focused on excellent handling. As I replace the clutch kit I figured I should spend some $ as my goal is to keep the car and put the best parts possible as I upgrade along the way.
The goals for this car are: Supercharge, install coilovers, replace rims and tires and paint/wrap it (all in stages). When I purchased the car the previous owner sold it as a package of car and turbo kit. I sold the turbo and kept the clutch kit, injectors and differential for when I supercharge it.
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY!
The following users liked this post:
apextc (05-02-2019)
The following users liked this post:
apextc (05-02-2019)
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