LED in high beam & DRL?!?!?!
03-25-2016, 07:44 AM
#12
That looks like what we're discussing. I'm curious about the high beam pattern as I'm more concerned with light down the road than the DRL function. It appears these are running the the high beams all the time and only switch them off when the headlights are on low (?).
Less expensive than a good pair of halogens.
-- Chuck
Less expensive than a good pair of halogens.
-- Chuck
03-25-2016, 08:55 AM
#13
there isn't a good dual purpose LED or "Xenon-like" DRL/highbeam bulb or system. as Euroboutique mentioned, you have to choose one or the other. you can either get the DRLs to have a Xenon look, or you can have functional highbeams.
i've talked to the guy whose car is used in that iJDMtoy promo. the highbeam output isn't adequate for driving use. read the comment at the end on the iJDMtoy page:
it's a little misleading to some that don't understand the limitations of LEDs on the market and how they relate to DRLs & highbeams. again, longstory short, you can't have both w/out spending a lot of time & $$$.
i've talked to the guy whose car is used in that iJDMtoy promo. the highbeam output isn't adequate for driving use. read the comment at the end on the iJDMtoy page:
By converting to LED, both DRL and high beam will have a similar or same light output.
03-25-2016, 10:01 AM
#14
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/le...8#.VvV8JxIrJE4
get h7, adapt it to fit H1, don't look back.
DRL function on ap2 is just half voltage to high beam i believe.
iJDMtoy LEDs are a joke in output. TRS led i linked to puts out 3000 lumens. yes, 3000. most h1 halogens seem to rated for around 1800 lumens.
get h7, adapt it to fit H1, don't look back.
DRL function on ap2 is just half voltage to high beam i believe.
iJDMtoy LEDs are a joke in output. TRS led i linked to puts out 3000 lumens. yes, 3000. most h1 halogens seem to rated for around 1800 lumens.
03-25-2016, 10:02 AM
#15
hi everyone, i'm trying to replace the stock H1 bulb in our high beam / DRL, to LED to get rid of that ugly halogen bulb.
i'm aware that if you use LED, u will only get DRL lights function and lose high beam. so i'm planning to buy a load resistor hoping to solve the issue (much like the hyper blinking issue if you replace turn signals with LED). however i'm stuck on the wiring....the H1 bulb is 1 tab only, which then connects to our headlight socket that is 3 tab. looking at this "H1 LED load resistor", how does one connect the wiring????
pls help
i'm aware that if you use LED, u will only get DRL lights function and lose high beam. so i'm planning to buy a load resistor hoping to solve the issue (much like the hyper blinking issue if you replace turn signals with LED). however i'm stuck on the wiring....the H1 bulb is 1 tab only, which then connects to our headlight socket that is 3 tab. looking at this "H1 LED load resistor", how does one connect the wiring????
pls help
that bolded part is bull shit. you don't have can bus, the car doesn't really mind how much power the bulb uses, theres no bulb out warnings. you do not need a resistor.
01-20-2017, 01:27 PM
#17
So I gave this a whirl, the cheap way. Bought a pair of led h1 bulbs off of eBay and installed them as is. The lights turned on and functioned as DRL's perfectly. However if you switch the high beams on they would turn off or flicker until they would turn off.
The interesting part and the part I didn't figure out was that when I turned on my low beams the drls would come on by themselves and flicker constantly. Very weird, I have a pair of load resistors that I'm going to install on them just to see if it makes a difference
The interesting part and the part I didn't figure out was that when I turned on my low beams the drls would come on by themselves and flicker constantly. Very weird, I have a pair of load resistors that I'm going to install on them just to see if it makes a difference
01-20-2017, 03:33 PM
#18
Since March I've determined that LEDs are dim-able. Heck my LED flashlights get dim as the batteries die. 
But I also tried some Cree LEDs in my outdoor garage lights that are on an electronic times. They flicker when they should be Off. Work fine when On. Mystery I don't have time to explore but the timer needs something in the circuit to function and apparently there's not enough load with the LEDs.
-- Chuck
But I also tried some Cree LEDs in my outdoor garage lights that are on an electronic times. They flicker when they should be Off. Work fine when On. Mystery I don't have time to explore but the timer needs something in the circuit to function and apparently there's not enough load with the LEDs.
-- Chuck
01-21-2017, 08:00 PM
#19
anyone consider trying these type?
https://www.xenonhids.com/h11-single...FRC1wAodgw4Agg
(using H1 size of cuz)
https://www.xenonhids.com/h11-single...FRC1wAodgw4Agg
(using H1 size of cuz)
Last edited by aznsupastar; 01-21-2017 at 08:02 PM.
01-22-2017, 09:18 AM
#20
Same price for the H1 bulbs. Looks interesting although running 2x to 3x the cost of halogen bulbs. Don't know how well they'll run at reduced voltage as DRLs. Anyone?
6000K is about the upper limit I'd use for headlights. The human eye sees objects best in sunlight (no surprise there) which is roughly in the 5000K-6000K range. Any bluer than 6000K just produces glare.
-- Chuck
6000K is about the upper limit I'd use for headlights. The human eye sees objects best in sunlight (no surprise there) which is roughly in the 5000K-6000K range. Any bluer than 6000K just produces glare.
-- Chuck