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Megan Tie Rods - Bump Steer Sorted?

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Old Apr 24, 2025 | 10:32 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by B serious
Your tie rod boots didn't wear prematurely due to the angle.

You don't need a bumpsteer kit at a 1" drop. Honda does sell just the boots for the tie rods.
Interesting. This revelation frees up the budget for other parts
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Old Apr 24, 2025 | 10:34 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jub
Unless there is a way that I am not aware of to get the new boot on the tie-rod, which is totally possible, it's not worth the time. I think a boot is like $15 and a tie-rod end is like $60. I couldn't get the stupid boot on and I ripped it. Cost me $75 instead.

LMK if I'm dumb and there's an easy way to get the boot on. It was a side project and I was frustrated so I failed.
Do you have a part number for those boots? I need to try this as well.

P.S. I presume your ride height had nothing to do with your tie rod boots ripping if you're an inch or less lower than stock.
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Old Apr 24, 2025 | 10:35 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BrewDay09
Thanks for the responses. I'm going to attempt the replacement this weekend.

I don't have an arbor press, but will give it a try with my Harbor Freight ball joint/bushing kit. It has a large C-clamp and can work like a press.

I found the post referencing the 32mm 12-point.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-br...boots-1214311/
I'd like to try the replacement boots as well. Please let us know how it goes
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Old Apr 25, 2025 | 04:36 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by RolanTHUNDER
Do you have a part number for those boots?
53546-S30-005 Boot
94030-12280 Castle Nut
94201-30220 Split Pin

The manual suggests replacing the ball joint castle nut and split pin. You could potentially re-use them.
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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 10:03 AM
  #15  
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I installed the tie rod boots today. Easy-peasy. Total time for both sides was about 90 minutes including jacking and cleanup.

The 32mm 12-point socket is a perfect fit. And the Maddox ball joint/bushing tool from Harbor Freight worked a treat. It didn't take much force to put the boots on, and I almost got them on by hand tightening the tool.



The old boots came off with a small flat-head screwdriver, I packed the joints and new boots with Lucas Oil Red 'n Tacky which was already in my grease gun.

I also replaced the nuts and cotter pins. The nuts are not castle nuts like I thought I remembered, and probably don't need to be replaced. 40 ft-lbs is the torque spec.


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Old Apr 26, 2025 | 05:17 PM
  #16  
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^Looks good

You got a little too much grease in there though, from the look of the boot.

Otherwise, congrats on the successful install.
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Old Apr 27, 2025 | 06:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by B serious
You got a little too much grease in there though, from the look of the boot.
What is the effect of too much grease in the boot? When I test drove it, the steering felt like it wanted to hang up in the last position turned rather than return to center. Is it possible the ball joint is not moving freely and causing this?

This is a track car and I only have about 5° of caster. I could be just imagining things.
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Old Apr 28, 2025 | 11:02 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BrewDay09
What is the effect of too much grease in the boot? When I test drove it, the steering felt like it wanted to hang up in the last position turned rather than return to center. Is it possible the ball joint is not moving freely and causing this?

This is a track car and I only have about 5° of caster. I could be just imagining things.
The grease will probably just ooze out of the boot and make a mess. In rare cases, the boot can rupture.

It won't cause your steering hang up.
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Old Apr 28, 2025 | 11:27 AM
  #19  
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Gotcha. I don't normally drive it on the street so I was probably just noticing the effect of low caster and high camber combined with road crowning and pavement grooves.
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