CuriousGeorge

When adjusting the height I noticed the spring doesn't spin like it does on YouTube for other brands. Is that right? I see the perches turning along with the shock body since the perch is locked but the spring stays in a fixed position. Is that what others experienced?

Cpt. Spock

anyone running stiffer springs front and rear and had to lower the car more than ohlins recommended to yield their desired ride height? i have RCA's in the front so that helped with the 13k springs in the front to get the height i was looking for. but the rear at the -15mm ride height setting with 11k springs in the rear, still have a massive rake, and a pretty big wheel gap. I am going to try and pre-load the bushings again to see if that helps, but i would think it would be a little bit closer to my ideal ride height given the pictures B_serious posted of his car. Any info is appreciated.

B serious

**I'd like to note that earlier, I made a bit of a mistake in the way I did my calculations for spring load.

Use traditional wheel/spring rate conversions going forward.

Also...I think Gernby's car ended up higher than he thought because he used 700LB to calculate wheel rates. 700LB is a typical corner weight...but it is a combination of sprung and unsprung weight.

You only need SPRUNG weight to properly calculate wheel rates as related to the spring.

Idk what the sprung weight of the car is.

I can say, however, that my springs compressed 1.53" with a full (or close) tank...no driver.

My car has the following sprung weight reduction mods:
-No soft top (OEM hardtop)
-No spare or trunk carpeting
-Recaro PP's on factory rails
-T1R 70EM single (steel) exhaust

B serious

With 11K springs, you'll need to use either a helper spring for the preload portion or let your 11k spring hang loose a bit.

You cannot use 2mm preload and get to my ride height with 11k springs.

You'll need to lower the bottom bracket BEYOND (neg) 15mm. Bottom it out all the way.

Then start to unload/lower the spring until you get your ride height. You'll end up with a loose spring at full droop (oh well, no biggie). But at static height, you'll probably have about 0.8" of shock travel before bumpstop. With a 11k spring, that should be plenty. I am using 0.6" with a 8k spring.

I suggest you do the initial setting WITHOUT your dust boot. That way, everything is visible.

With any spring rate higher than or equal to 8K, to have my ride height, I think your max travel will be 0.8" before bumpstop with the stock ohlins bottom bracket. I am guessing a bit here.

Some people (an Ohlins distributor I met up with at a track day) hinted to possibly modding the lower bracket or threads to get more adjustment. I have not had time to mess with mine yet...but may take apart my suspension and look at the components soon. The car will be headed to storage any day now.

B serious

With properly clocked bushings, and a 11K spring. And the stock Ohlins bottom bracket completely bottomed out, you may actually not have a rattling/loose spring with the wheels in the air.

You won't know til you try, though.

On a bench, I'd *guess* you need like 0.25" spring freeplay (freeplay is the opposite of preload) along with a bottomed out bottom bracket. Once installed on a full weighted car with properly clocked bushings, you should end up at 0.8" of shock free travel at static height.

Maybe that's as good of a place to start as any. Then go from there.

thomsbrain

I have 12K rears and got my desired ride height, but I have RCAs in the rear that give about 12mm lowering.

Cpt. Spock

appreciate your guys' responses. so i "split the difference" of the distance between the preload collar and the bottom collar (15 mm to 7-8ish mm) and its closer, definitely better, but not there yet..i kept the ohlins recommended pre-load setting to see where it would be. i may try maxing out the bottom bracket first before messing with the preload, i think after doing that i will be pretty close.

CuriousGeorge

Hey B , just wanted to thank you for all the help, took a break from the car for a bit, but i did take out the driver side rear , tighted the top nut which was difficult to hold with an allen key to keep the shock from spinning. This help eliminate the rattle i had. Measured it all on the bench and reinstalled and preloaded the suspension, still came out a little taller on the driver rear, i am sure i might be getting some bind with the sway somewhere. So hopefully after i get an alignment , it will balance out.


Car rides great, and bumps dont unsettle the chassis , i am happy with the ohlins, and although it was the most i ever spent on suspension, it was worth it and makes the car fun to drive. And thing can only get better with a proper alignment next.

Apex1.0

Just started driving my Ohlins now. It's very impressive. I will post a review when I am done trying the range of damping settings. So far they are combining everything I loved with the oem shocks and everything I loved with the konis together in a perfect blend.

ZSAK

good to hear! I just ordered a set this morning can't wait to try them