Understanding the "flange" ap2 diff. In ap1
 

Killed the diff. Found an ap2 to go into my 2001.


so the whole issue is that I need to remove my current flange (thing that comes out of the diff. And Bolts to the driveshaft) and reinstall it onto the ap2 diff? Because the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the flange are different? I'm reading that the torque on this nut is very precise. Can anyone verify that this info is correct, how much the torque should be....and, why is it so important that the torque be perfect (just because I WANT TO KNOW kinda thing)


thanks!

Doing this type of work without a service manual? It's available for download (there's a link here somewhere). 1970 pages (yep!) is easier to search in digital form than the paper book.

Chapter 16 has the data (to my untrained eye).

Several torque specs to the drive shafts that need special bolts and nuts.

Prop shaft to diff uses 8mm bolts pre-04 and 10mm bolts 04 and later. And different toques.

-- Chuck

you can get the service manual searching online.

However Bishko offers just-like-honda reprints.

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/search.cgi?year=2001&make=Honda

If you wish for a service manual in paper

Info and writeup on swapping flanges is on this site.

I wish I knew where... ive been looking for days

The torque is important because you are bolting down the pinion inside the differential and there is a "crush" collar in there. The more you tighten the bolt, the further the pinion gear moves away from the ring gear. If you do not have the correct rotational torque, or just jam the nut on the end, you're going to sheer the gears right off the pinion first rip you do.

The problem with just doing a flange swap is the crush collar. There is a specific torque for the initial crush during assembly because then the ring gear is adjusted to correctly ride on the pinion, it's inaccurate to go to the same torque and think it's fine. Plus you would need to measure the rotational torque with a beam type wrench, and if you keep adjusting the nut and end up going too far - you'll have to open the up the diff, install a new crush collar and start all over again AND now have to deal with adjusting the position of the ring gear.

It's not worth it for a DIY swap.

It's better to not disturb the diff and instead get an AP2 driveshaft and AP2 transmission flange as the transmission flange is a simple unbolt/bolt on procedure.

Disclaimer: I'm half asleep right now, if something isn't right someone can correct me.

Thanks. So, that's what I was wondering about. The crush collar. I didn't know if i needed a new one...

if I send the two differentials out to a specialty shop and have them retorque the (new) nut, I should be fine?

Talk to Puddymod

PuddyModRacing (____AT____) tampabay.rr.com

:thumbup: for Ben

Doesn't matter if the nut is new or old, that part is irrelevant. The point is that the crush collar is INSIDE the differential housing on the pinion shaft. If you're replacing the collar with a new one the entire diff needs to be taken apart, re-assembled and then the gear spacing needs to be set.

yeah, imean Ive read lots of old threads where people are replacing the flange and not getting a new crush collar.. or.. are they getting one and just not telling us about it in the thread???

the yes or no question I need answered is.. do I NEED to replace the crush collar? apparently on some rear ends you must change it every time.

and.... why even do all this if you can just run to the hardware store and buy some bolts that just fit in the new flange!!!?

I understand ap2 bolts will not fit in the ap1 driveshaft (per billman)
I understand that I should get a new nut but if I don't then use some blue locktite (billman)
it seems like I should just go buy some bolts and put this thing together.....????.