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You could use an ohm meter and measure the TPS while slowly turning it, sensor obviously needs to be disconnected.
If the resistance is nice and linear the problem should be somewhere else, normal range should be around 0.5-4.5kohm.
But it's probably a ground problem like the tuner suggests.
Check the wiring schematics, it looks like ecu connector C and pin 18, 27 and 28 is end of the line from the TPS.
Check for continuity between these point and also that there is no short to ground.
It's also a good idea to have someone wiggle the wire harness at the same time to force any intermediate faults to show.
I really like the STE synchrometer that I got, not to expensive either.
Your timing seems way low btw, think mine sits around 14 degrees at idle.
Oh wow. I was going to try to set it for 10 to sync, but the only tick mark is 5, so I didn't want to screw it up. Also, is this a good "how to" to sync?
So, my head gasket blew. I am pretty sure it was caused by heat. I was still doing datalogging for the start tune and had noticed several instances of 200 plus temperatures on the AEM software. I assumed it was the calibration. I am now to the point of either stroking the motor or swapping to an LS or K24. This sucks and I leave the country in 75 days, so I am on a schedule to get this thing up to be shipped
I don't want to blow another head gasket, so i am trying to figure out the best way to bleed the coolant next time. There is a nipple on the Hayward system, but I have hooked no coolant lines to the ITBs. So...is that the purposed of the circled plug on the attached picture.
03-16-2018, 07:59 AM
