When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So i ended up buying the Skunk2 Ultra race manifold version 2 for the F20/22. Im probably going to test it on my buddies 2.4 before i put it on mine and buy a throttle body and fitting/regulator for the new IM setup. I already have injectors and rails for the OEM intake manifold setup, but if the big manifold makes power on our big displacement engines then I'll keep it of course. I know it works for boost and isnt ideal for a stock compression F engine but we'll see what happens with super high compression and cams.
The runners on that IM are too short for NA. But I have the K-series Skunk2 Ultra race with a custom F to K adapter on my 2.4L. IIRC the adapter adds just over an inch to overall runner length.
As for TB, I found the K-tuned 80mm to work well for my setup. Uses a K-series IACV and TPS. Think Ktuned also has 90mm too. Avoid skunk2 TB, sticks like crazy no matter what.
The runners on that IM are too short for NA. But I have the K-series Skunk2 Ultra race with a custom F to K adapter on my 2.4L. IIRC the adapter adds just over an inch to overall runner length.
As for TB, I found the K-tuned 80mm to work well for my setup. Uses a K-series IACV and TPS. Think Ktuned also has 90mm too. Avoid skunk2 TB, sticks like crazy no matter what.
I did measure the runner vs stock and it is an inch shorter which like you mentioned isnt ideal for NA. Now if i understand correctly, the VE of the engine also dictates how much runner is needed. Cause if longer always meant more power, we'll see manifold with 2 ft ruunners sticking out of hoods. But when lets say you have rules to cap compression and or stroke, then you need to increase velocity through then IM into the head. Depending what happens on the test on my buddies car would dictate whether i keep it or not. The idea of the spacer to add runner lenght is very good and i did consider that. Maybe i should go ahead and make one to also test back to back. BUT one thing i would not like is the injector being further away form the port. I would have to research that and how that affects fueling characteristics for better or worse.
How much compression does your engine have? Whats your final output power and torque?
If you spend the money and time building a engine with aftermarket lightweight rods and pistons and then bolt up an 11lb flywheel to it instead of an 8lb, you just negated the whole point. Your working against yourself. If you want the engine to rev up and down fast and free the flywheel has just as much influence on this as the internal engine parts, however the flywheel is the low hanging inexpensive fruit and the engine components are the last thing you would focus on because they are the most expensive and have the least amount of weight savings. Period end of story. Just trying to help you out here. Don't waste your time and money on the engine unless your going to take it all the way. If it were me, id leave the stock engine alone and just run the 8lb flywheel, its a beautiful combo I run with no shortage of free revving responsiveness over stock and it will also reduce some load stresses on the mains too. But you have to weigh out your main focus here. The factory internals are capable of 9k rpm for several hundred K as oem designed. You building the engine to take 10k+ rpm? If not, internals are the last thing that should be on your mind.
You have not negated the whole point. You have if you go heavier. Taking weight from the piston and rod reduces load on the wrist pin. Reducing load on the wrist pin means you can run a smaller wrist pin. Smaller wrist pin in a stroker setup ultimately means better rod stroke ratio with a custom piston and rod combo. Which is what I did, Im over a 1.5 R/S ratio with the 99mm crank. A standard setup is around 1.46
What I believe you are trying to say is if you did custom internal to lose rotating mass, its best to get the lightest flywheel, in this case the 8lb as to further compliment what you did with internals. Which I agree with to a certain point. I think where it would get to extreme for a street car is with a super light PP and clutch combo like those mini combos. Then street drivng becomes a burden when taking off from a stop, which i have first hand experience with. So I have been taking all that into consideration and with the OEM clutch with ACT PP combo, the 8lb should not be to bad and further compliment lightening the rotating mass.
Factory internals wont get me over 300whp NA. The 2.5 will be taken to 9000. The cams will not make power to 10k.
I have started assembling the block. The guys doing my head also said, they are just about done. I have found a few interesting details that I would like to share for info for those building their own engines.
1st - after you have your blue printing done, recheck everything you can. Some how the rod clearance was way off, i guess I am to partly to blame, it was my idea to use a different half bearing to get near our desired clearance. I didnt have to measure initially to know something was wrong. When i torqued the first rod I immediately noticed it had no play and would barely spin. I loosened the bolts and the rod was free. Since i bought 3 sets of ACL race rod bearings, I put a set of the standards to test if its a bearing issue and i was fine. I was using .025 (tighter) originally based on the machine shop measuring I was to loose on a extra clearance set. So I begin to check the clearances with plastigauge, I opted use the set of the STDX (slight extra clearance or standard) and was at .014" meaning on the std I would be around .012-.013. On the rods im aiming for .015-.017. OEM calls for .012 -.021. So after this finding, I end up pulling the main caps out to check that as well as I have now lost trust in the info I was given. The mains are using std clearance ACL race bearings. The mains are perfect, .013-.014. OEM calls for .007-.016. I was thrilled about that. The crankshaft end play with ACL thrust bearings is at .0055-.006, OEM calls for .004-.014, perfect. The last major measurement I need is how far out of the deck the piston is coming, then i can buy the headgasket. Almost there.
On the head side, they had to shim the valve springs to get the advertised seat pressure Ferrea gives of 80lbs. He did mention before I even bought springs that its likely it would have to be done from their experience. They are also going to CC the head so I can know exact compression ratio I will be running once everything is properly spec'd.
And yet there was another interesting find LOL. I am using OEM main bolts. I bought 2 new sets, 1 for inline pro to use for align honing and one for me to use on assembly since these are torque to yeild. Well out of the box on one set after giving the bolt the 60 degree turn FROM 22 ft/lbs (22ft/lb first then 60 degree turn) it was stretching early and not giving me the correct torque. The digital torque wrench would end up calculating 70-75 nm's of torque after the 60 degree turn ( was avg 63 degrees , im not a robot LOL), 1 brand new bolt would only gave 59, thats no good. So I ended up using one from the second set and it worked out. I had to do this on 3 bolts IIRC after I torqued them twice since i had to recheck clearances. So they all averaged 70-75nm when done. This was with oil on the threads not ARP or Carrillo Lube.
So today I will try to source a set of rod bearings that are a little looser to get the clearance I want and hopefully have the block assembled.
Last edited by xBoostx; Jun 23, 2020 at 09:53 PM.
Reason: uw
Yes! Progress continues. The biggest hold up has been the headgasket. Cometic has been 3 weeks behind due to business pausing. But as of today, the headgasket arrived at the parts shop, so i will be picking it up tomorrow. Before finalizing the assembly I have to verify PTV clearance. Per the math we are 100%, but that has to be checked. Block has been assembled for a month now. Im doing some porting and cleaning on the Skunk2 IM. The head came in about 3 weeks ago as well and Im super happy with the job JBR did. It'll be on the road soon! And on to progress pictures.
Cleaning up the casting inside the manifold and opening up the runners a little more up stop along with cleaning and port matching.
The intake port with new Ferrea valves, bronze guide and homemade porting
Look how deep the piston goes into the bore! Pull in more air!!!! And on TDC the piston peaking outside the deck
So I went out and bought a longer bolt to help install the damper. The ATI is interferance fit and we never want to pull through with just a few threads, so the longer bolt ensured I have a bunch of threads in before pulling in the damper and easily it drove in the damper.
I also applied a little oil to the threads as to further make the process easier and safer. Love these dampers.
I hope the engineering was done correctly for that wristpin/piston combo. That pin looks scary small along with minimal meat on the piston pin area..it literally looks like a piston out of a 450 dirtbike.
The guys doing my head also said, they are just about done. I have found a few interesting details that I would like to share for info for those building their own engines.
