dparm

2hp? That's well within a dyno margin of error.

Nevermind the whole dyno manipulation thing that's surprisingly easy to do...

chimmike

exactly why I said it'd be hard to test as the margin of error on any dyno is more than 2hp haha

zbrewha863

From personal experience, I would give cooling plates a big

I just got back from an 8 hour endurance race, running an average of 90mph the entire time, and my water temps never rose more than 10 degrees Farenheight above normal operating temp. The only cooling mod I have right now is my cooling plate (haven't gotten around to installing the others) ... I was extremely impressed with it.

Obviously this is not a back-to-back comparison, but obviously a normal car running this sort of race would have temps far higher than mine as well. Just my two cents, hope it adds some real world-ness to this discussion.

SweetS2K

What plate are you running? What intake?

SpitfireS

IMO the S2000 hasn't got any problem with the cooling system.
It's very capable of removing all the heat the engine can generate (N/A)
What does happen is heat bog.
Waiting for a traffic light that takes longer than you want, slow stop-and-go traffic and when you finally go the car almost stalls.
Warm air was sucked in by the intake when driving slowly or at a standstill, now that you're moving again fresh cold air comes in and the ECU goes

The bubble wrap stuff insulates the intake from that heat.
No warm air makes it in there anymore, driving or at a standstill.
As far as I can tell it works.
Sure, it doesn't look that nice but you can't see it with the hood closed.

SweetS2K

True! Has anyone tried the product thermo-wrap? It appears that you lace it up around the intake like a shoe lace. According to product description, it expands to 4" in diameter so it should even work with the AEM V2.

chimmike

thats the product I was talking about that was reviewed in Import Tuner and apparently showed a consistend 2hp gain, and as stated, that's also within the margin of error on a dyno.

IMO, for driving in traffic, wrapping the intake just insures that heatsoak will remain in the piping longer.

dolebludger

The main reason for installing a rad plate of the design of the AUT is to eliminate power LOSS from heat-soak -- not to to add power to an engine that is not suffering from heat soak. The AUT allows cooler air from in front of the radiator and the engine bay to be made available to the inake horn. For this to work, you must remove the stock rad plate, IMO. With an AUT design, you can also do other neat things like installing air scoops from the bottom of the grill up and back to the intake of the AUT to try for a bit of ram air.

Any dyno testing would have to involve a car that is, at first heat-soaked and tested, followed by a test of the same car with the AUT. I suspect gains would do little more than compensate for heat soak. But for those of us who live in hot climates, that is a pretty good deal! And the dyno could not evaluate the "ram air" effect.

But I can say that I get 2 mpg better in the summer with the AUT. And I can say that the car always seems to have a bit more power below vtec. Now, it can be started off at as little as 2Krpm. Additional power can be felt in the 4K to 6K range. Not a lot, but then the mod didn't cost a lot.

zbrewha863

Modified stock box w/ K&N filter - and I'm running a Carbing carbon fiber cooling plate

slackfaster

The forth post hit it --
[QUOTE=carrera4,Oct 6 2008, 09:26 PM]You only need one if you have to remove the stock piece in order to fit an intake.