omgitsoop

So my 2004 that I've had since 2006 is starting to get up there in miles, about to break 150,000 running totally fine but I'd like to do a rebuild on her before anything major does show up. My primary goal is RELIABILITY, it's not a track car but I do go on extended road trips and she's never stranded me, and I don't want it to start now, BUT I would like to get a few more horseponies if I could. I bought an AEM but haven't installed it yet, not super interested in raising the redline but would like more midrange. Do aftermarket rods and all that really give me an advantage if I'm sticking to an 8000 redline or no? Any suggestions? Had originally intended on going 100% OEM but I can't help but want to be a little adventurous.

Kermdaddy

Why do you think you need a rebuild? Mine has 165k miles and it is about to be boosted. Other than the general maintanence it has needed nothing. My compression is consistant and good and it doesn't burn a drop of oil. What symptoms are you having.

Raising the redline will not get you any midrange. Fuel cut off is 8300 so if you want OEM stick to that. I personally am setting mine to 8500.

Why do you need rods? If you are going to do that then just go ahead and stroke it and there is your midrange.

You haven't given a budget or goals. I understand reliability, but as with anything even stock parts break. Every car has the possiblity of breaking down.

There is nothing OEM that you can put on the car to get more midrange. If you are worried about not changing from OEM drop weight. Gut the trunk, take the spare tire out, etc.

wadzii

If you want midrange stick a 2.4 crank in it

omgitsoop

As I said, it runs fine and doesn't NEED a rebuild, but it's something I'd rather do now before an issue pops up. I also know that raising the redline won't improve midrange, which is why, as previously stated, I'm not planning on raising it. I also know that nothing OEM will improve my midrange, which is why I had suggested something that would maybe make a difference when tuning, i.e. lighter rods or something like that.

Budget is $3000 to $5000 on the motor, maybe more. The goal is however much more HP and TQ $3000 to $5000 gets me.

omgitsoop

Should I just pick up an inline pro kit, or do you suggest something else?

Car Analogy

You should do a compression test, and an oil analysis. If it all comes back healthy, I would absolutely NOT rebuild it. You want reliability, but a rebuild is just going to cause you issues, and solve issues you likely don't have.

When you do that much disassembly involved with a rebuild, so many things are touched, there is a lot of risk in something not going back together perfectly. It will take time to sort these things out before you get your 'reliabilty' back.

This is one of those ain't broke don't fix it things. There are plenty of examples of these cars going well over 300k miles and still running very strong. The things that kill them, missed shifts, running low on oil, can happen at any time, whether rebuilt or not.

So my advice, unless oil analysis or comprsssion test shows an issue, your best bet for reliability is to not mis shifts, and not to run low on oil.

You are throwing money out the window, and causing yourself issues not curing them, to rebuild an engine that doesn't need rebuilding.

Kermdaddy

If I had $5 grand to blow on the car, I would put a supercharger on it and call it a day.

Maybe that is what is happening now

All jokes aside if you want to stick to NA, get with one of the venders on here wadzii, Urge, InlinePro and have them work up some parts for you that will work together. Also look at your long term goals. If you even have the hint of going turbo at some point then to me waisting money on a header that eventually you will remove later isn't something you want to do.

If you are paying for labor $5 large won't get you much.

KnottsHerrington

Do a thorough check of the engine, compression, leak down, and bore-scope it. If all looks well leave it be. I bought my ap1 with a performance rebuild and have regret it ever since, I've been shifting through all the PO bone head decisions and it has made my wallet light It's to the point that I'm considering a new short block and sending the head out to be put back to stock (getting rid of Ti retainers and keeper). If more mid-range is what you're looking for check out URGE there head work is pretty bitchin!