CNC Speedshop 2.4 liter stroker kit installed but making LESS power than before
11-02-2016, 04:15 AM
#11
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11-02-2016, 04:21 AM
#12
Have you done any tuning?
Can't really tell on the picture but it looks like lower plot is AFR? 14.3 and 16.6 AFR at 7500 is really bad.
Like MB asked what kind of intake are you using? Before the throttle body.
Can't really tell on the picture but it looks like lower plot is AFR? 14.3 and 16.6 AFR at 7500 is really bad.
Like MB asked what kind of intake are you using? Before the throttle body.
11-02-2016, 04:57 AM
#14
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I am not very informed on the Air fuel ratio issues. I am relying for that on a profesional mapper. Before the throtle body I am using a custom cold Air intake that goes under the radiator and in front of it (just behind the front bumper) sucks Air through a cone air filter. What should the correct AFR be in your opinion?
11-02-2016, 05:03 AM
#16
I am not very informed on the Air fuel ratio issues. I am relying for that on a profesional mapper. Before the throtle body I am using a custom cold Air intake that goes under the radiator and in front of it (just behind the front bumper) sucks Air through a cone air filter. What should the correct AFR be in your opinion?
But that doesn't explain why your TQ curve is a near overlay at the lower RPMs. You should have a change there.
11-02-2016, 05:10 AM
#17
the AFR from the dyno typically are tail pipe sniffers, so i'd expect half a point delta from a wideband installed in the header, but you are like 3 full points leaner than you should be
11-02-2016, 05:30 AM
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I am using a Hondata Kpro S2000. Actually the car felt faster during the first 750 miles after the engine rebiult. The remapping was only yesterday and I haven't driven it get but just saw the dyno graph and decide to ask here. The other problem that I have noticed is that I get an engine check light every time I drive the car. The check light does not come immediately on when I turn on the car but it lights up only after I drive the car for a whole. According to my mapper the engine check light might be caused either by a faulty knock send or a real knock problem that gets detected at higher RPM. My engine cilynder width is stock (87 mm) so would there be a problem of the custom CNC rods slightly touching the cilynder walls only after the engine runs above 4000 RPM let's say.
11-02-2016, 05:35 AM
#19
I am using a Hondata Kpro S2000. Actually the car felt faster during the first 750 miles after the engine rebiult. The remapping was only yesterday and I haven't driven it get but just saw the dyno graph and decide to ask here. The other problem that I have noticed is that I get an engine check light every time I drive the car. The check light does not come immediately on when I turn on the car but it lights up only after I drive the car for a whole. According to my mapper the engine check light might be caused either by a faulty knock send or a real knock problem that gets detected at higher RPM. My engine cilynder width is stock (87 mm) so would there be a problem of the custom CNC rods slightly touching the cilynder walls only after the engine runs above 4000 RPM let's say.
Yes the rods will hit if your builder did not notch the block for clearance. Also so will your oil squirters will hit the piston if they are not removed or bent slightly out of the way.