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CNC Speedshop 2.4 liter stroker kit installed but making LESS power than before

 
Old 11-02-2016, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MorngWoodStewie View Post
Wow that should be a beast. You should verify by weight distance and time. Would be a quick analysis on if the dyno is playing tricks.
Can you explain what you mean exactly since I didn't understand that.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:21 AM
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Have you done any tuning?
Can't really tell on the picture but it looks like lower plot is AFR? 14.3 and 16.6 AFR at 7500 is really bad.
Like MB asked what kind of intake are you using? Before the throttle body.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:56 AM
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why is it so lean up top.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by flanders View Post
Have you done any tuning?
Can't really tell on the picture but it looks like lower plot is AFR? 14.3 and 16.6 AFR at 7500 is really bad.
Like MB asked what kind of intake are you using? Before the throttle body.
I am not very informed on the Air fuel ratio issues. I am relying for that on a profesional mapper. Before the throtle body I am using a custom cold Air intake that goes under the radiator and in front of it (just behind the front bumper) sucks Air through a cone air filter. What should the correct AFR be in your opinion?
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:58 AM
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Same dyno? What ECU are you using?

Does the car feel faster? Slower?
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by eMotion View Post
I am not very informed on the Air fuel ratio issues. I am relying for that on a profesional mapper. Before the throtle body I am using a custom cold Air intake that goes under the radiator and in front of it (just behind the front bumper) sucks Air through a cone air filter. What should the correct AFR be in your opinion?
If the AFR's are correct on that dyno your crazy lean up top. Like don't drive it your gonna melt a piston lean. Either the AFR's are off on the dyno (entirely possible) or your tuner isn't doing his job.

But that doesn't explain why your TQ curve is a near overlay at the lower RPMs. You should have a change there.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:10 AM
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the AFR from the dyno typically are tail pipe sniffers, so i'd expect half a point delta from a wideband installed in the header, but you are like 3 full points leaner than you should be
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by f20kills View Post
Same dyno? What ECU are you using?

Does the car feel faster? Slower?
I am using a Hondata Kpro S2000. Actually the car felt faster during the first 750 miles after the engine rebiult. The remapping was only yesterday and I haven't driven it get but just saw the dyno graph and decide to ask here. The other problem that I have noticed is that I get an engine check light every time I drive the car. The check light does not come immediately on when I turn on the car but it lights up only after I drive the car for a whole. According to my mapper the engine check light might be caused either by a faulty knock send or a real knock problem that gets detected at higher RPM. My engine cilynder width is stock (87 mm) so would there be a problem of the custom CNC rods slightly touching the cilynder walls only after the engine runs above 4000 RPM let's say.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by eMotion View Post
I am using a Hondata Kpro S2000. Actually the car felt faster during the first 750 miles after the engine rebiult. The remapping was only yesterday and I haven't driven it get but just saw the dyno graph and decide to ask here. The other problem that I have noticed is that I get an engine check light every time I drive the car. The check light does not come immediately on when I turn on the car but it lights up only after I drive the car for a whole. According to my mapper the engine check light might be caused either by a faulty knock send or a real knock problem that gets detected at higher RPM. My engine cilynder width is stock (87 mm) so would there be a problem of the custom CNC rods slightly touching the cilynder walls only after the engine runs above 4000 RPM let's say.
You have Kpro so you can read the code..its for knock?

Yes the rods will hit if your builder did not notch the block for clearance. Also so will your oil squirters will hit the piston if they are not removed or bent slightly out of the way.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:36 AM
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you drove 750 miles without tuning?
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