Custom CAI fabrication
#11
AEM 21-209EDK Universal DryFlow Clamp-On Air Filter: Round Tapered; 6 in (152 mm) Flange ID; 5 in (127 mm) Height; 7.5 in (191 mm) Base; 5.125 in (130 mm) Top https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DX9EAK..._pX.uzb9VMG03X
This is the filter I'm using. It fits down there but barely. You may be right that it is a restriction, but it seems to work well. I'm not too worried about getting every last job out of the car in NA form now, as I'll be putting on the Ptuning turbo kit in a while, but would be curious to see if this was a good choice or not. How are you reading your vacuum? With no load in the garage freerevving and with a mechanical vacuum gauge tapped in the tube or are you datalogging it?
This is the filter I'm using. It fits down there but barely. You may be right that it is a restriction, but it seems to work well. I'm not too worried about getting every last job out of the car in NA form now, as I'll be putting on the Ptuning turbo kit in a while, but would be curious to see if this was a good choice or not. How are you reading your vacuum? With no load in the garage freerevving and with a mechanical vacuum gauge tapped in the tube or are you datalogging it?
This rather common shape/size filter I tested pulled vac at 7k along with the Comptech foam filter of similar shape/size
Last edited by s2000Junky; 06-28-2017 at 12:05 PM.
#14
Yeah that's fair. I brought my MAP reading up and checked to see if the water sock made any difference and it didn't. Next time I have the bumper off I'll pull the filter and run the bare velocity stack and see. I would imagine it's fine, but who knows. The car did make 229whp 154ft. Lbs on a speed factory's dynapack though. I also have a port matched larger TB
#15
I'm guessing that's in millimeter water, so not much restriction but worth noting.
I think I'm using a similar CT filter (Icebox) that you mentioned with 4" hose to the airbox and I can notice 1-2kPa (10-20 mmH2O) vacuum close to redline.
Think it was similar with just bare velocity stacks and 4x51mm throttle bodies though so not really sure were the restriction is.
I think I'm using a similar CT filter (Icebox) that you mentioned with 4" hose to the airbox and I can notice 1-2kPa (10-20 mmH2O) vacuum close to redline.
Think it was similar with just bare velocity stacks and 4x51mm throttle bodies though so not really sure were the restriction is.
#16
I'm guessing that's in millimeter water, so not much restriction but worth noting.
I think I'm using a similar CT filter (Icebox) that you mentioned with 4" hose to the airbox and I can notice 1-2kPa (10-20 mmH2O) vacuum close to redline.
Think it was similar with just bare velocity stacks and 4x51mm throttle bodies though so not really sure were the restriction is.
I think I'm using a similar CT filter (Icebox) that you mentioned with 4" hose to the airbox and I can notice 1-2kPa (10-20 mmH2O) vacuum close to redline.
Think it was similar with just bare velocity stacks and 4x51mm throttle bodies though so not really sure were the restriction is.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 06-29-2017 at 09:00 AM.
#18
-8 to -10 vacuum is significant for sure.
To think of it from another perspective, it would be like running 5psi of boost if stock was 10psi (not exactly, but same concept). Obviously the more load you can place on the engine, the more performance you will obtain. However I'd be surprised if 0psi or any positive pressure was possible, unless manifold pressure measurements are different than intake tube pressure measurements.
When I was running my SOS kit without the blower, just the aftercooler, the boost gauge was still installed, and vacuum would drop to around -8mmHg near redline and the car DIED up top.
Right now with just the stock intake arm, no airbox, my datalogs show a solid -3mmHg across the rev range. Increasing to 0psi or even positive pressure would be phenomenal however, and surely would increase power.
To think of it from another perspective, it would be like running 5psi of boost if stock was 10psi (not exactly, but same concept). Obviously the more load you can place on the engine, the more performance you will obtain. However I'd be surprised if 0psi or any positive pressure was possible, unless manifold pressure measurements are different than intake tube pressure measurements.
When I was running my SOS kit without the blower, just the aftercooler, the boost gauge was still installed, and vacuum would drop to around -8mmHg near redline and the car DIED up top.
Right now with just the stock intake arm, no airbox, my datalogs show a solid -3mmHg across the rev range. Increasing to 0psi or even positive pressure would be phenomenal however, and surely would increase power.
#19
-8 to -10 vacuum is significant for sure.
To think of it from another perspective, it would be like running 5psi of boost if stock was 10psi (not exactly, but same concept). Obviously the more load you can place on the engine, the more performance you will obtain. However I'd be surprised if 0psi or any positive pressure was possible, unless manifold pressure measurements are different than intake tube pressure measurements.
When I was running my SOS kit without the blower, just the aftercooler, the boost gauge was still installed, and vacuum would drop to around -8mmHg near redline and the car DIED up top.
Right now with just the stock intake arm, no airbox, my datalogs show a solid -3mmHg across the rev range. Increasing to 0psi or even positive pressure would be phenomenal however, and surely would increase power.
To think of it from another perspective, it would be like running 5psi of boost if stock was 10psi (not exactly, but same concept). Obviously the more load you can place on the engine, the more performance you will obtain. However I'd be surprised if 0psi or any positive pressure was possible, unless manifold pressure measurements are different than intake tube pressure measurements.
When I was running my SOS kit without the blower, just the aftercooler, the boost gauge was still installed, and vacuum would drop to around -8mmHg near redline and the car DIED up top.
Right now with just the stock intake arm, no airbox, my datalogs show a solid -3mmHg across the rev range. Increasing to 0psi or even positive pressure would be phenomenal however, and surely would increase power.
At WOT or 35%? throttle opening and above, the pressure between the manifold and intake tube should be equalized/same. Its all based on how far that TB is open. If the filter doesn't breath well enough for what the motor wants at that rpm (cfm goes up with rpm) then its effectively acting like putting another valve/closed TB in front of the intake tube and you start pulling vac again. There is a relationship/fight in essence between what the motor wants at a given rpm and throttle opening and what the end of the straw ( intake tube/filter) can allow it to eat.
Id say to anyone, if they want to see if they are getting the full meal deal out of their custom or off the shelf intake, plumb one of those vac gauges in the intake tube and see if you pull a vac or not. Their primary use was to tell you when it was time to clean or replace your filter. This is a critical part of getting the most out of the motor, and obviously overlooked. Nothing like spending thousands on bolt ons, even good sounds ones, only to find the filter is undersized and squandering a portion of it.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 06-29-2017 at 12:09 PM.