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Engine failure looking for rebuild advice.

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Engine failure looking for rebuild advice.

 
Old 01-06-2018, 10:49 AM
  #11  
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I would steer away from a head thats been outfitted with "upgraded" springs and retainers unless you have to have them because you are running aggressive lift cams that need stiffer springs. OEM is the most reliable. Stiffer springs creates added seat pressures and you will increased wear rate on the cams and all related components, and some unlucky guys here find out the hard way with broken/chipped ti retainers. Then your back to where you started.

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Old 01-06-2018, 04:28 PM
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I thought S2Ks had an issue with spring retainers cracking so ithought it would be a win win rebuilding.
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Old 01-06-2018, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gfunkitron94 View Post
I thought S2Ks had an issue with spring retainers cracking so ithought it would be a win win rebuilding.
No, that is due to a mechanical over rev, not from just happening randomly. F22 did get a upgraded oem retainer which in a mechanical over rev situation more times then not will bend a valve rather then break a retainer and drop a valve, which is better, but if you dont money shift the car to begin with, you dont have a problem to worry about in either case. The better recommendation many do when running stock cams is to change out to the ap2 retainers and keepers on their f20's for some measure of peace of mind in a money shift situation.

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Old 04-17-2018, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by gfunkitron94 View Post
I recently went through every S2K owners Nightmare of engine mechanical damage. I was leaving work and the engine just quit, there was no wierd noises the engine just said no and died. The next day I towed my S to the shop I worked at and started diag. Found codes for the CKP tested the sensor and just couldn't get a good reading. During cranking I noticed the engine just didn't sound right and decided to remove the oil cap and wacth the cams while cranking. My heart sank, intake cam didn't budge. Removed valve cover and found the cam gear nut loose and woodruff key sheared off. Removed cam brigdes and found number 2 welded to the intake cam, heart sank further. I want to keep my S and find a complete head with cams or cams and bridges, I cannot find just the bridges and saw another S owner that has gone through a similar situation and replaced individual bridges. I need help finding parts or possibly an upgraded complete head assembly. Any input would be greatly appreciated thank you for your time.
Ah no! That is so sad
How did the number 2 cam bridge get welded on to the intake cam? Regardless, its too late now... maybe purchase a whole stock engine and have the peace of mind of OEM unopened F20/22 then part out what is undamaged (VTEC solenoid, valve cover, etc)? That's of course if money allows that to happen. Hope it works out soon.
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky View Post
If someone is considering going to that length, then just find a used long block and bolt it in. It will be cheaper, and some would argue for piece of mind being an uncracked factory engine. Ive spent over 3k having a well known tuning shop build me an F22 in the past and it drank an excessive amount of oil from the start and was unusable after just 20k miles. A lot of things have to go right tearing and re assembling an engine for it to be factory reliable. Too risky for me, as well as costly. If you are your own engine builder and confident in the task, thats entirely a different matter. But regardless this isn't the most friendly engine to rebuild, its very limited in tolerances before you are having to sleeve it, and that opens up a new compromise in piston longevity due to the looser spec required. You pay someone $2500+ to yank and tear down an engine, only to find out the bore measurements wont take FRM pistons anymore, now your half invested deciding if you should spend another $3000 sleeving and re assembling/installing, or just buying a used 50k mile F2x for $3000 from the start and another $1000 in labor for removal/install. Or as i previously suggested, removing oil pan/inspection and then buying a used head, inspect/replaced timing components/oil pump and hope the roughly $2000 your out here did the trick. None of these 3 options are great, I hate situations like this, been in many myself, but the OP has to look at risk vs cost/reward and decide which makes the most sense for him.
I wouldn't trust aftermarket built engines. Honda OEM F20/22 are super solid and built to exacting standards. Save for Spoon and J's short blocks/heads you'd be hard pressed to find a solidly built up engine that can be as reliable as Honda OEM...
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Old 11-24-2018, 02:41 PM
  #16  
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In replacing a head gasket has anyone used a dressing such as Permatex copper spray-a-gasket?
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