headworks on f20c head
#1
headworks on f20c head
hi guys i just wanna ask on how much power an JDM f20c engine will gain from a headworks? like port and polishing etc...... im planin on getting a headwork done on my ap1. is it worth it??? my mechanic will be the one to do the headwork. he has done lots of awesome heads from b series, d series k series and h series and showed dyno proven gains. so im wondering if i am to gain power on my jdm f20c engine.
#3
As long as he knows how to build a really good head you will make power but even still the s2k stock head is already very well built. But ofcourse regardless, building a new head will make more power but wont make as much as you might be expecting without going FI
#4
Registered User
There have been many who have actually lost power after building the head on this motor.
You have to be aware of how difficult it is to gain power on the S2K through porting the head. What people failed to realize is that those that experienced a loss of power is due to the fact that the final combustion chamber size becomes considerably larger than stock so the final compression ratio ends up being lower then the factory compression ratio. It's not a big decrease, but it's still there.
While good for boosted motors, this isn't the best for NA. Even with this drop people have been able to get some minimal gains due to the head flow increase. The intake side sees very decent increase in flow around 5-8%, but the exhaust side gets a big jump at around 16-17%.
However, what you want to do is to keep the comp ratio the same as stock or even increase it for further gains if you desire to do so. The head can be milled and the ratio returned to the stock 11.0:1, which is what people fail to realize before going through with the process.
You have to be aware of how difficult it is to gain power on the S2K through porting the head. What people failed to realize is that those that experienced a loss of power is due to the fact that the final combustion chamber size becomes considerably larger than stock so the final compression ratio ends up being lower then the factory compression ratio. It's not a big decrease, but it's still there.
While good for boosted motors, this isn't the best for NA. Even with this drop people have been able to get some minimal gains due to the head flow increase. The intake side sees very decent increase in flow around 5-8%, but the exhaust side gets a big jump at around 16-17%.
However, what you want to do is to keep the comp ratio the same as stock or even increase it for further gains if you desire to do so. The head can be milled and the ratio returned to the stock 11.0:1, which is what people fail to realize before going through with the process.
#5
Registered User
#7
I'll just back up what has been said above. The head on this car flows very well. The amount of knowledge you need to really make any improvements is extreme. The Company I used does work directly for Honda on race programs. They know more about cylinder heads than the manufactures themselves. Still, I "only" gained 8% flow on the intake side. They were discussing shit on the cylinder head I had no clue about and have never heard another shop discuss. I would be extremely skeptical of the work your average cylinder head guy can do. Including the popular West Coast names.
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#8
I have built a few heads as a favor to guys here and what I do is just to enhance the performance already built into this head.
As said by many, this head is so good from the factory it is more easy to peddle backwards in performance than to improve it.
The port and polish job we do is a port match to the factory gaskets. Then we put a high polish on the exhaust ports but, do not remove any material. On the intake side we put a swirl mat finish that allows the fuel to atomize, no material is removed from the intake side nor do we go to deep into the chamber. The head is surfaced to assure a true flat surface to mate with the engine.
If you keep it simple you should be fine, trying to do more without having high end equipment and a ton of knowledge and experience will most likely get you a bad result.
I am building another head now that I am using an AP2 exhaust cam and an AP1 intake came in. I am also using a set of forged one piece black nitrate valves dished on the intake side and flat on the exhaust side. New factory AP1 springs, AP2 retainers, keepers, guides, and seals.
As said by many, this head is so good from the factory it is more easy to peddle backwards in performance than to improve it.
The port and polish job we do is a port match to the factory gaskets. Then we put a high polish on the exhaust ports but, do not remove any material. On the intake side we put a swirl mat finish that allows the fuel to atomize, no material is removed from the intake side nor do we go to deep into the chamber. The head is surfaced to assure a true flat surface to mate with the engine.
If you keep it simple you should be fine, trying to do more without having high end equipment and a ton of knowledge and experience will most likely get you a bad result.
I am building another head now that I am using an AP2 exhaust cam and an AP1 intake came in. I am also using a set of forged one piece black nitrate valves dished on the intake side and flat on the exhaust side. New factory AP1 springs, AP2 retainers, keepers, guides, and seals.
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