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I agree your budget is off.
Both engines are rated negligibly the same Hp anyways. Best bet (for me) If I was U. I would continue running F22 "class" save and get the F20 built/sleeved < all depending if I could not find FRM compatible MAHLE half oversized high comp pistons < and as well depending on how bad the bores are to be re-finished for a compatible FRM (stock sleeve) build.
Since you have both F20/F22 you can save money by messing with cam setups, If you shave deck or head, automatically budget for adj. gears so you can 1: degree back into stock alignment, the cam timing events will be off and or get the most you can. and 2: you can check all variable positions for interference.
OR depending on how much you paid in the first place for a bad F20 Sell crank as its Good, and block as a sleeve donor, and anything else you can. use that and your 1-2K for a good healthy F20. your only losing some trq, like I said they both make roughly the same Hp. Once you have a healthy F20 then save for what ever bolt on you think will make it put out more, I think you would probably be better off buying a healthy F20 get it tuned with your F22 bolt ons, and getting better final drives/gearing to accomodate the drop in trq and improve your track time.
I paid $1000 for the F20C which came with headers, ecu and transmission. I have already modified the AP1 transmission by removing 5th and 6th gear to reduce weight and frictional losses. I have a 3.74 rear end so I will go from about 68-71 mph in 2nd. I've lightened/drilled the OEM pressure plate and removed almost 2lbs from it. The pressure plate and solid 4 puck clutch now weights the same as a stock pressure plate, just waiting for the Machine shop to balance it for me.
The reason I want to keep my F22C and de-stroke it is because it only has about 40,000 miles on it. Good luck finding and F20 with that low miles. My F22 also makes great power, more then they say is possible from the F22. I think a lot of it comes from short exhaust and significantly lighter drivetrain and maybe the dyno is a little generous (The owner didn't think so after questioning) but the torque curve is great. The red and yellow lines are basically with VTech permanently engaged, dark blue 3,800 light blue 4,800ish. I also understand that the dyno numbers don't really mean anything other than comparing against yourself. Nor do I want to get into a pissing match over why my engine does no make that much power.
Here are some pistons I found ~$650 http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...-F20-F20C.html
Here are some Rods ~$800 http://realstreetperformance.com/Sho...024h-00_2.html
Then I need to add the crank and AP1 cams. I am missing something about the price here? A lot of people say these parts are expensive and not achievable on a $1-2K budget.
If your cylinder walls are scratched up really bad sleeving might not bad a bad way to go. These are can be used with FRM though: InlinePRO - F-Series FRM Pistons
Thanks for all your help everyone. I think the reality here is that the juice is not worth the squeeze going with any aftermarket parts. I plan to just swap the in the F20 crank and connecting rods using the F22 pistons. I will then change to the AP1 CAMs and springs but keep the AP2 retainers. Then get a tune and call it good.
Power is not my biggest concern at the moment so i think my money is spent better elsewhere to help drop weight from the car. Later when I want to get more from the engine I will look at E85, ITBs aftermarket CAMs etc.
I thought I would add the progress I am making. The crank and pistons have been replaced and I am in the process of buttoning up the engine. AP1 pistons installed AP1 crank installed F22 on the stand, F20 on the floor. No engine in Scrap Metal.
I thought I would add the progress I am making. The crank and pistons have been replaced and I am in the process of buttoning up the engine. AP1 pistons installed AP1 crank installed F22 on the stand, F20 on the floor. No engine in Scrap Metal.
Jesus Paul, It looks like my work space when I've got a motor out and apart. I refuse to throw anything out till it's in the car and running.
I hear you. Well the engine is pretty much back together. The hardest part of it all was removing the AP1 flywheel. The bolts having been there for 15 years just would not budge. I tried my 300lb impact battery drill, then my 700lb air wrench (from Harbor freight), then went out and bought a nice 800lb air wrench, then I bought a propane torch to heat and cool the nuts, after then I drilled holes through the center of the nuts. They still would not move. Finally I welded larger nuts onto the thin bolt head and used my 2' to finally get them to move. What a pain in the butt.
19mm nut welded onto flywheel nuts.
Anyway tomorrow I should get the transmission attached and maybe get the engine back in the car.
02-15-2017, 07:54 PM
