increasing hp
I want to slowly start building up my motor so I was curious if anybody has any input?
I was thinking starting with the basics, air flow, flywheel, cams, ecu. Then go from there. any ideas? |
You need a super charger or turbo.
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After reading through a good deal of the information on the boards here, the only way to make a good increase in power is to go FI. The OEM engine is tuned pretty well from the factory and bolt ons won't show dramatic changes in hp and tq. Of course, that shouldn't stop you as the bolt ons do change other aspects of the vehicle including aesthetics, sound and handling.
The best mods seem to be: test pipe, high end header, 70mm catback exhaust (single is better, although dual might be more pleasing to the eye) and intake (K&N FIPK seems to be the favorite all around, but any CAI will produce some decent gains) N/A mods require alot more money for alot less power. Go with the basics, keeping in mind what FI will require down the road, and save up for FI. Good luck! |
cheapest way to go fast is FI. If you want it the hard way, go N/A.
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You F/I guys go back to your own section.
Yes F/I is way cheaper but that's not the point. You just can't beat the feel of an N/A motor. |
Originally Posted by Revenge,Aug 30 2010, 01:20 PM
You need a super charger or turbo.
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Get an intake, exhaust, headers, tune and you can get 15-20whp
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Originally Posted by boy blue11,Aug 30 2010, 04:32 AM
I want to slowly start building up my motor so I was curious if anybody has any input?
I was thinking starting with the basics, air flow, flywheel, cams, ecu. Then go from there. any ideas? 1. walk over to car 2. remove wallet from pocket, some use back pocket, i prefer front pocket 3. remove money from wallet 4. throw it at the car 5. walk away. |
G force chip for extra 60 hp.
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Originally Posted by Vik2000,Aug 31 2010, 11:46 AM
G force chip for extra 60 hp.
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i like FI as well, but i will probably keep my s2k n/a. it is generally more reliable on a honda, but that can be subjective.
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Originally Posted by boy blue11,Aug 30 2010, 12:32 AM
I want to slowly start building up my motor so I was curious if anybody has any input?
I was thinking starting with the basics, air flow, flywheel, cams, ecu. Then go from there. any ideas? without going into the internals.... you can expect 20-25 hp increase at most typically with all the bolt ons and tuning.... you will need some sort of EMS to make the most out of it.....with the right parts you can lower VTEC to about 3500 and pick up a large chunk of mid range |
would you be able to use a vafc for tuning, or would you recommend something else?
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Originally Posted by XtianDobbZockOn,Sep 3 2010, 08:47 AM
would you be able to use a vafc for tuning, or would you recommend something else?
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Originally Posted by camuman,Aug 31 2010, 11:12 AM
man this answer is so simple.
1. walk over to car 2. remove wallet from pocket, some use back pocket, i prefer front pocket 3. remove money from wallet 4. throw it at the car 5. walk away. |
Hytech Header
SOS BB throttle body HKS 75mm single AEM V2 Okada Coils AEM EMS end of story. |
If you have to go NA...
Fast Forward/PLM header FIPK/CAI + Snorkel 70-75mm exhaust 70-75mm test pipe Tune And what makes probably the most dramatic difference is gears. 4.56's or 4.77's will make an NA S2000 much faster. Loses top end but increases your 0-100~ runs. |
My bolt on plan's
FIPK intake, BPI stack, AUT cooling plate(might try a custom 3.5" pipe) Big throttle body Hytech or J's header 75mm test-pipe HKS 75mm single exhaust AEM EMS I'm still looking into intake manifolds. |
No expert, but trying to improve on the factory IM wont get you very far. I think it has good enough flow characteristics. I would get your exhaust, tp/HFC, header, and EMS, and then spare yourself the cash on getting a SOS TB, Okada coils, and working on the IM and putting the money towards I-vtec or ITBs.
SOS TB and the coils will yield benefits, but after the basic bolt ons, the money you spend to get those benefits wont be nearly as significant as they will be getting ITBs. Assuming you have access to a good tuner. Of course, it just depends how long you intend to have the car, and what kind of NA monster you really want. Happy modding! :thumbup: |
Originally Posted by H22toF20,Aug 31 2010, 02:58 AM
You F/I guys go back to your own section.
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It really depends on what your looking to get out of the car. Is this going to be a daily driver? Track car? ect?
My personal favorite N/A modification would be gears. 4.56 or 4.77's are a great way to capitalize on the stock F20C. N/A cars are very hard to gain power out of unless your planning on running higher compression. On a mild DD, I'd run a Fujistubo Legalis R exhaust or J's 60RS. On a car you don't mind being louder, a 70RR or 70RS would be great. I really love J's products, but you can substitute in your own personal likings. If your serious about getting the most out of your N/A power, then a AEM EMS is probably the best way to get the most out of every mod. Otherwise a VAFC would do the trick in terms of cost. As for the flywheel, a 11-13 lb would be great on the street. Anything lighter wouldn't preform quite as well at freeway speeds and such. A 8 lb flywheel is pretty good for road racing. It really depends on what you want in terms of performance. But my #1 pick for N/A performance is gears. PuddyMod is a great guy to work with. Think of the diff as an early investment if you plan on driving the car hard. Use the search tool to see how many people have blown their diffs on S2Ki ;) Good luck, and there are plenty of guys in the FI forum that have a lot to contribute to both the N/A and FI sections. |
Ok i need to add my 2 cents...........
I have had NUMEROUS cars, many of them being hondas and this whole bolt on for 15-20hp in nonsense. Exhaust being the biggest scam of them all. Most of the parts these guys have listed i.e; intake,exhaust,header are EXPENSIVE, for a decent exhaust system DECENT, your looking at well over a $1000, an intake will run u $200+ new, and will give u 1hp, an exhaust (minus the noise) 3hp on a good day. Gears are a good idea btw On top of that, why would u buy an EMS to tune an intake and exhaust? Your talking $2000 if not more, for what? 20hp? My point being, i learned from buying NA bolt ons, and with all the money i ended up spending i could have been 3/4 way to a turbo kit. yes going turbo has its cons, and can be expensive, and yes eventually it all becomes a big f^#*% waste of money. Not hating on NA guys, i love NA motors, but ur already hungry for power. At what point is your $1500 15hp (if even) investment going to not be enough anymore? Now your out $1k or more, and still want more power. |
Originally Posted by ap1_tot,Sep 3 2010, 01:17 PM
Hytech Header
SOS BB throttle body HKS 75mm single AEM V2 Okada Coils AEM EMS end of story. |
really?placebo effect?lol
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Yea okada's in the simplest way to say it, use coilpacks from other cars the s2000's being from a k24 motor. If im correct it just basically gives a higher & longer pulsewidth then stock ones, but all they did was take k24 coils and put their name on them and sell them for $$$$$$$$
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Originally Posted by RedLineS2k10,Sep 4 2010, 08:24 PM
Ok i need to add my 2 cents...........
I have had NUMEROUS cars, many of them being hondas and this whole bolt on for 15-20hp in nonsense. Exhaust being the biggest scam of them all. Most of the parts these guys have listed i.e; intake,exhaust,header are EXPENSIVE, for a decent exhaust system DECENT, your looking at well over a $1000, an intake will run u $200+ new, and will give u 1hp, an exhaust (minus the noise) 3hp on a good day. Gears are a good idea btw On top of that, why would u buy an EMS to tune an intake and exhaust? Your talking $2000 if not more, for what? 20hp? My point being, i learned from buying NA bolt ons, and with all the money i ended up spending i could have been 3/4 way to a turbo kit. yes going turbo has its cons, and can be expensive, and yes eventually it all becomes a big f^#*% waste of money. Not hating on NA guys, i love NA motors, but ur already hungry for power. At what point is your $1500 15hp (if even) investment going to not be enough anymore? Now your out $1k or more, and still want more power. I decent power producing exhaust for the S2k wont cost $1000..it will cost $600-700...AEM intake will cost $300..or about the same for K&N... As for the test pipe...it netted me 1whp on my F20c with I/E...but it was worth it to get rid of the annoying exhaust drone. headers.....we have shown that the OEM is hard to beat once you add EMS.....with out EMS you can gain 5-10whp over stock As for max whp for bolt ons....we have seen 235whp on our dyno..which is roughly 20-25whp on the DBW cars..... Tuning doesn't really add peak, but makes a ton in the mid range by allowing VTEC to go as low as 3500rpm....... AEM EMS/Hondata KPRO/Flash Pro.....worth every penny and should be the first mod for any serious build NA or FI...... I for one, want more NA power for track days...225whp would be awesome out of my F20c..and still super reliable... To me FI is not an option for a car that sees at least 500 miles a week of harsh street driving and 75-100 track miles a month..... my 2 cents |
Ok to join the discussion. It seems plenty of people only focus on peak power. They forget the whole power band. Intakes, Exhaust can net people some nice midrange gains and at times top end. It all depends what you are trying to do with your car.
No one should have even responded to the OP. He was to broad in his question. |
buy your parts used
injen intake cost me $50 greedy filter $5 new at greddy fest k&n fiintake free with car spoon exhuast + tespipe w/silenser $350 okada project coil pack free, came with car toda header $500 maybe, pending |
ive seen used parts here and cl for cheap
oh vafc seem rhem for 60-100 |
I feel like this has been discussed at least 100 times :deadhorse:
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Originally Posted by UMS Tuning,Sep 8 2010, 10:00 AM
Everyone has their own opinion on what works for NA
I decent power producing exhaust for the S2k wont cost $1000..it will cost $600-700...AEM intake will cost $300..or about the same for K&N... As for the test pipe...it netted me 1whp on my F20c with I/E...but it was worth it to get rid of the annoying exhaust drone. headers.....we have shown that the OEM is hard to beat once you add EMS.....with out EMS you can gain 5-10whp over stock As for max whp for bolt ons....we have seen 235whp on our dyno..which is roughly 20-25whp on the DBW cars..... Tuning doesn't really add peak, but makes a ton in the mid range by allowing VTEC to go as low as 3500rpm....... AEM EMS/Hondata KPRO/Flash Pro.....worth every penny and should be the first mod for any serious build NA or FI...... I for one, want more NA power for track days...225whp would be awesome out of my F20c..and still super reliable... To me FI is not an option for a car that sees at least 500 miles a week of harsh street driving and 75-100 track miles a month..... my 2 cents The poster before mentioned it can be a strong upgrade in speed by going smaller(help 0-100). My car is just a DD...never track..so over 100 is kinda mute for me anyway....would love to increase 0-100. Any resource areas to read more about the gearing options? thanks! |
Originally Posted by merckx racer,Sep 11 2010, 07:15 AM
Any opinion on gears?
The poster before mentioned it can be a strong upgrade in speed by going smaller(help 0-100). My car is just a DD...never track..so over 100 is kinda mute for me anyway....would love to increase 0-100. Any resource areas to read more about the gearing options? thanks! |
2k gets everything listed in my sig with the tune... Trying to sell the car.. Best NA setup I've owned
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Originally Posted by EVAN&MONICA,Sep 11 2010, 01:54 PM
The NA forums common topics thread that is stikyd at the top has links to a couple good ones ;)
is some good reading at the locale you sent me to! ps....I like your sig..."wash and wax wacko" not that I've ever heard that before :hello: |
Originally Posted by cboyarskirn,Sep 11 2010, 04:27 PM
2k gets everything listed in my sig with the tune... Trying to sell the car.. Best NA setup I've owned
251hp and 180lb.ft. to the wheels is impressive for NA... so much for the FI types that say nothing can be gained. |
Originally Posted by merckx racer,Sep 11 2010, 09:08 PM
Wow!
251hp and 180lb.ft. to the wheels is impressive for NA... so much for the FI types that say nothing can be gained. you realize in some instances dynapack dynos read incredibly high. shutter the thought that this may infact be one of those instances ;) if its too good to be true, than it prolly isnt. otherwise, his car is the strongest bolt on tuned s2k EVAR. |
Originally Posted by camuman,Sep 11 2010, 06:12 PM
lol.
you realize in some instances dynapack dynos read incredibly high. shutter the thought that this may infact be one of those instances ;) if its too good to be true, than it prolly isnt. otherwise, his car is the strongest bolt on tuned s2k EVAR. |
some dynapacks do read high..... but they are few and far between.
the real question is what where the gains? not the final numbers.... |
Originally Posted by camuman,Aug 31 2010, 03:12 PM
man this answer is so simple.
1. walk over to car 2. remove wallet from pocket, some use back pocket, i prefer front pocket 3. remove money from wallet 4. throw it at the car 5. walk away. |
Well the car was 226 stock, when 240 with all the bolt ons, and 251 after the tuning.. The graph in my sig is comparison of just bolt ons vs tuning.. Whether it reads high or not, same dyno for all 3 and significant gains throughout
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Originally Posted by cboyarskirn,Sep 13 2010, 10:13 AM
Well the car was 226 stock, when 240 with all the bolt ons, and 251 after the tuning.. The graph in my sig is comparison of just bolt ons vs tuning.. Whether it reads high or not, same dyno for all 3 and significant gains throughout
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Originally Posted by cboyarskirn,Sep 13 2010, 02:13 PM
Well the car was 226 stock, when 240 with all the bolt ons, and 251 after the tuning.. The graph in my sig is comparison of just bolt ons vs tuning.. Whether it reads high or not, same dyno for all 3 and significant gains throughout
thank you for the clarification and the confirmation that the dyno was generous in the numbers produced. however, the delta is very real and very healthy. very nice increase. |
if you want to go faster N/a, weight is Key. :light:
i only have intake/exhaust/tp @ under 2600lbs. with ap2 transmission(about ~4.29FD) Car moves. |
forget boost and forget intakes and exhausts. the real key is stickers and lots of them
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Originally Posted by elvir,Sep 13 2010, 12:09 PM
forget boost and forget intakes and exhausts. the real key is stickers and lots of them
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really!?
i always thought it was 20 whp per sticker. |
Originally Posted by camuman,Aug 31 2010, 11:12 AM
man this answer is so simple.
1. walk over to car 2. remove wallet from pocket, some use back pocket, i prefer front pocket 3. remove money from wallet 4. throw it at the car 5. walk away. |
After Intake Header Exhaust Test pipe, what would be my next step? Throttle bodies?
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Originally Posted by it'S2klean,Sep 14 2010, 09:05 AM
After Intake Header Exhaust Test pipe, what would be my next step? Throttle bodies?
you should consider engine management to tied it all together.... |
yea i want to take it a past step the bolt ons
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Originally Posted by camuman,Sep 13 2010, 10:51 AM
ok, this is really good, now we can see there is a 25whp delta from stock to modded.
thank you for the clarification and the confirmation that the dyno was generous in the numbers produced. however, the delta is very real and very healthy. very nice increase. |
Originally Posted by merckx racer
(Post 19465420)
Any opinion on gears?
The poster before mentioned it can be a strong upgrade in speed by going smaller(help 0-100). My car is just a DD...never track..so over 100 is kinda mute for me anyway....would love to increase 0-100. Any resource areas to read more about the gearing options? thanks! This is the difference gears make https://youtu.be/sY47a0Q4Pww |
From one N/A enthusiast to another, let me be the brutally honest one. Get ready to open that wallet VERY wide to pull some good N/A power out of your car. Yes, start with the bolt ons and get a good EMS and tuner to make the most out of the mods. The honest truth is. if you want any real N/A power from this engine, you are going to have to start thinking about internals. I am currently having my engine built as we speak with a high compression 2.4L stroker kit along with a fully built head and ITB's. I'm sure it will be fun BUT IT WAS NOT CHEAP!!!
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