InlinePro stage 3 cams on 2.2 stroked f20c engine
#11
Well got an answer from InlinePro. They take a bit to respond but till now they are beeing helpfull.
So they gave me two "solutions"
- Rev the car to 9k
- If there is not enough clearance you can either move the valve further into the head or make deeper intake valve reliefs on the pistons.
So i´m a bit over the bridge..
Is it safe to run 9k? only topics i see about this is running 9k on stock bottom end, wich is not my case and the discussion always tends to go to the "9k is useless as the power curve drops before that" (also not my case)
As for altering the pistons or valves i could do it but only if i was sure it would have significant results..wich i cant know also before actually doing it and then i already spent the money and cant go back.
Any thoughts on this?
So they gave me two "solutions"
- Rev the car to 9k
- If there is not enough clearance you can either move the valve further into the head or make deeper intake valve reliefs on the pistons.
So i´m a bit over the bridge..
Is it safe to run 9k? only topics i see about this is running 9k on stock bottom end, wich is not my case and the discussion always tends to go to the "9k is useless as the power curve drops before that" (also not my case)
As for altering the pistons or valves i could do it but only if i was sure it would have significant results..wich i cant know also before actually doing it and then i already spent the money and cant go back.
Any thoughts on this?
#13
i´m no mechanical engeneer to make those calculations and even if i made them i couldnt take any conclusions...
What i usually see discussed is force applied to cylinder walls and rotating mass but all that relating to OEM parts. In my case, pistons are lighter, rods are lighter and cylinder walls are not FRM but steel.
What i usually see discussed is force applied to cylinder walls and rotating mass but all that relating to OEM parts. In my case, pistons are lighter, rods are lighter and cylinder walls are not FRM but steel.
#14
I don't think spinning it to 9000 RPM with your engine build is going to destroy the motor but what do you expect the lifetime of the motor to be? If you plan to pull it apart regularly and ensure things aren't taking a beating and replacing components that are then you can do whatever you want.
If you are doing a street build, it will probably last a long time. If you are wanting to do 9000 rpm in a track setting where you are sustaining that kind of usage for 20-30 minutes at a time you should not expect it to last forever.
If you are doing a street build, it will probably last a long time. If you are wanting to do 9000 rpm in a track setting where you are sustaining that kind of usage for 20-30 minutes at a time you should not expect it to last forever.
#15
I don't think spinning it to 9000 RPM with your engine build is going to destroy the motor but what do you expect the lifetime of the motor to be? If you plan to pull it apart regularly and ensure things aren't taking a beating and replacing components that are then you can do whatever you want.
If you are doing a street build, it will probably last a long time. If you are wanting to do 9000 rpm in a track setting where you are sustaining that kind of usage for 20-30 minutes at a time you should not expect it to last forever.
If you are doing a street build, it will probably last a long time. If you are wanting to do 9000 rpm in a track setting where you are sustaining that kind of usage for 20-30 minutes at a time you should not expect it to last forever.
sure i´m not expecting OEM reliability. I usually pull the engine out or at least check bearings once a year and the car is mainly for track use. Trackdays not competitions. About 4 or 5 events a year.
What would be a safe rpm limit then? I was running 8250. I think TODA recomends 8400 or 8500 for their stroker kit but i always want to be on the safe side. Just wondering if i´m beeing too conservative.
#16
9k RPMs on track and it will last about 25min...max lol. My experience with stock 2.2 bottom ends on track is they dont last long above 8500 consistent use. I ran mine (along with many others) at 8200 for years with good oil analysis.
Sell the cams or build around them.
Sell the cams or build around them.
#17
The 9k was a last resort. But it´s out of question considering the "feedback".
I wonder if having steel liners and aftermarket pistons and rods helps with the rpm or not. TODA recomends 8500 and they usually are quite conservative with their recomendations.
As for building arround them i only got left the piston idea as i´m out of more options
I wonder if having steel liners and aftermarket pistons and rods helps with the rpm or not. TODA recomends 8500 and they usually are quite conservative with their recomendations.
As for building arround them i only got left the piston idea as i´m out of more options
#18
The 9k was a last resort. But it´s out of question considering the "feedback".
I wonder if having steel liners and aftermarket pistons and rods helps with the rpm or not. TODA recomends 8500 and they usually are quite conservative with their recomendations.
As for building arround them i only got left the piston idea as i´m out of more options
I wonder if having steel liners and aftermarket pistons and rods helps with the rpm or not. TODA recomends 8500 and they usually are quite conservative with their recomendations.
As for building arround them i only got left the piston idea as i´m out of more options
Your rod bolts are probably more of a factor than the rods/pistons being able to handle 9k