Installing new short block
#1
Installing new short block
So I'm gonna be replacing my short block I currently have in my car. It's got 160k miles on it and has low oil pressure. I picked up a new F20 short block with 60k miles on it that has been rehoned, new rings, rebalanced, ACL bearings and a fresh oil pump. It hasn't even been installed since all that has been done to it
Anyways, what else would you replace when installing the block if you were doing it?
Keep in mind, this engine will get boosted to 400-450whp in the future, probably no more than 15psi.
So far a list that I have consists of;
OEM gasket kit
headstuds (oem or aftermarket?)
clutch / flywheel bolts
driveshaft bolts
Would you change out the main seals?
Anything else you would do or things that I have listed that you wouldn't worry about?
Any input would be awesome!
Thanks
Anyways, what else would you replace when installing the block if you were doing it?
Keep in mind, this engine will get boosted to 400-450whp in the future, probably no more than 15psi.
So far a list that I have consists of;
OEM gasket kit
headstuds (oem or aftermarket?)
clutch / flywheel bolts
driveshaft bolts
Would you change out the main seals?
Anything else you would do or things that I have listed that you wouldn't worry about?
Any input would be awesome!
Thanks
#3
Community Organizer
I would go through the head as you will have some guide and valve seat wear I think new stock head bolts would be adequate especially if you supercharge it. what was your oil pressure? as they don't have crazy high oil pressure at idle on a hot motor I have 12-15 psi and around 70 psi cursing. be careful with the knock sensor as it is easily broken good luck and make sure you have the crank tool
#6
Guides and valve seats may be a good idea. I went through the head and did a big maintenance on it about 10k miles ago, valve adjust, ap2 intake retainers, replaced any bolts that stretch and inspected everything else.
Would you just go OEM with seats and guides?
Manic - I never put a gauge on it, but i had other symptoms that pointed to low oil pressure (oil light flicker when car shakes because you almost stall it on a bad start up, and unable to have vtec mechanically kick in any lower than about 5k rpms)
Would you just go OEM with seats and guides?
Manic - I never put a gauge on it, but i had other symptoms that pointed to low oil pressure (oil light flicker when car shakes because you almost stall it on a bad start up, and unable to have vtec mechanically kick in any lower than about 5k rpms)
#7
Community Organizer
it would be interesting to find where the oil pressure is going just to know what wears out more. the light flicker and no vtec do point to oil pressure. wonder if the bypass valve in the oil pump could be stuck? on head studs I would go h11 I run them in my diesel truck with 60 psi boost 20k miles no problems just need to retorque the studs after a few heat cycles and don't over tighten them into the block. I take it you are going to keep the supercharger now?
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#8
honestly the oem stuff is good enough for 450whp, if everything was gone through in the head why are you worried about seats and guides ?
if it were me and I had the head off I'd just go a little more then actually needed for that extra peace of mind.
rebuild block (done)
oem head gasket
full blown h11 head studs
new seats, guides, valves, springs, retainers and locks (probably $1200-$1500)
all new seals throughout the engine
new chain, guides and tensioner.
that would make it MINTY MINTY fresh ready to handle 450whp for a long life (provided the tune is a very solid tune)
as well before you start the engine, pull your fuel pump relay or fuse, and crank it over for 30 sec at a time, 4 times. quickly plug in fuel pump relay and fire it up, so the head isnt dry.
everything above will make that motor happy for many many boosted miles !!!
good luck with whatever route you choose
if it were me and I had the head off I'd just go a little more then actually needed for that extra peace of mind.
rebuild block (done)
oem head gasket
full blown h11 head studs
new seats, guides, valves, springs, retainers and locks (probably $1200-$1500)
all new seals throughout the engine
new chain, guides and tensioner.
that would make it MINTY MINTY fresh ready to handle 450whp for a long life (provided the tune is a very solid tune)
as well before you start the engine, pull your fuel pump relay or fuse, and crank it over for 30 sec at a time, 4 times. quickly plug in fuel pump relay and fire it up, so the head isnt dry.
everything above will make that motor happy for many many boosted miles !!!
good luck with whatever route you choose
#9
Thanks for the tips! I'm considering all options right now. The car has 160k miles on it, and I'm debating on how many miles I will really want to keep this car for, which in turn will determine how intensive I do this refresh / rebuild.
#10
It's still listed for sale, I just bumped the price up to what I think it's worth, rather than my previous "quick sale price."
If it sells by the time the engine is rebuilt, then I will go ptuning, if it doesn't sell then I will just keep the SC and spend the left over funds on making the car track ready and start really having fun with the car. I'm so torn between both of those options that I will be happy with either honestly, so I'm letting the universe decide for me.
If it sells by the time the engine is rebuilt, then I will go ptuning, if it doesn't sell then I will just keep the SC and spend the left over funds on making the car track ready and start really having fun with the car. I'm so torn between both of those options that I will be happy with either honestly, so I'm letting the universe decide for me.