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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1437944542' post='23693545
The only real consideration with forced induction is when making it a closed loop system, you don't hook the lines up to a boosted port on the intake tract. This is mostly an issue when people boost cars that were not previously boosted and reconnect the PCV/CCV systems like factory, in which case they blow out seals because they are not pressurizing the crankcase. Other than that, it operates the same with more volume.
Link to those instructions? None of the ones I found online to the three companies you referenced said anything about location other than keeping it away from heat. Coincidentally, some heat isn't a bad thing as it keeps it from turning into sludge and clogging lines. This is a probably on even a factory Subaru since they mounted metal CCV pipes onto an intercooler. In winter, it transfers that cool temperature very well and causes the lines to get gummy.
As far as taking turns... I respond to misinformation. If you keep posting it, especially without a credible source to back it up, I will respond, especially to you at this point in time. Aside from me understanding exactly how these work and why people run them, I literally just showed you the information from the three said companies you tried to nail me against and not a single one of them supported your claim about mounting location or "If there are dipsdips in the hoses oil vapor can condense and either block or drain back, defeating the purpose of the catch cans".
Catch cans and Air Oil Seperators are implemented to keep oil out of the intake tract. Oil in the intake will gum up anything it comes in contact with over time, reduce cooling efficiency of intercoolers, and lowers octane. The AOS' I run on both my STi and S2000 PURPOSELY drain the "contaminates" back into the crankcase for a no-maintenance setup. I put my AOS on my STi when I did my first turbo and intercooler upgrade. After several years, the turbo and intercooler were completely dry when I took them off to sell. Prior to that, you could pour oil out of the intercooler and turbo.
Hey Yamaha, since we're friends now , I've got a question for you.
Just SC'ed my car...when it comes to catch cans, I'll probably get the Michi dual cans. Do you think the proper way to install them is same as the stock lines with the SC? In other words, one between the PCV and the intake manifold, and one between the valve cover and the place in connects on the SC air intake?
And, I may decide to drain them back into the oil pan, even Lake Speed says no big deal on that (basically he said that all the crap came out of the engine in the first place, so dumping that small amount back into the pan is fine), But, we'd still want a valve on that closed all the time unless I drain it, correct?
Provided you keep it a sealed system and each one of those cans is separate (internally) from the other, that will work. I would highly recommend draining it back to the engine as you'll likely fill those little things up rather quickly if you do more than sane street driving.
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1453518741' post='23860578
[quote name='yamahaSHO' timestamp='1437944542' post='23693545']
The only real consideration with forced induction is when making it a closed loop system, you don't hook the lines up to a boosted port on the intake tract. This is mostly an issue when people boost cars that were not previously boosted and reconnect the PCV/CCV systems like factory, in which case they blow out seals because they are not pressurizing the crankcase. Other than that, it operates the same with more volume.
Link to those instructions? None of the ones I found online to the three companies you referenced said anything about location other than keeping it away from heat. Coincidentally, some heat isn't a bad thing as it keeps it from turning into sludge and clogging lines. This is a probably on even a factory Subaru since they mounted metal CCV pipes onto an intercooler. In winter, it transfers that cool temperature very well and causes the lines to get gummy.
As far as taking turns... I respond to misinformation. If you keep posting it, especially without a credible source to back it up, I will respond, especially to you at this point in time. Aside from me understanding exactly how these work and why people run them, I literally just showed you the information from the three said companies you tried to nail me against and not a single one of them supported your claim about mounting location or "If there are dipsdips in the hoses oil vapor can condense and either block or drain back, defeating the purpose of the catch cans".
Catch cans and Air Oil Seperators are implemented to keep oil out of the intake tract. Oil in the intake will gum up anything it comes in contact with over time, reduce cooling efficiency of intercoolers, and lowers octane. The AOS' I run on both my STi and S2000 PURPOSELY drain the "contaminates" back into the crankcase for a no-maintenance setup. I put my AOS on my STi when I did my first turbo and intercooler upgrade. After several years, the turbo and intercooler were completely dry when I took them off to sell. Prior to that, you could pour oil out of the intercooler and turbo.
Hey Yamaha, since we're friends now , I've got a question for you.
Just SC'ed my car...when it comes to catch cans, I'll probably get the Michi dual cans. Do you think the proper way to install them is same as the stock lines with the SC? In other words, one between the PCV and the intake manifold, and one between the valve cover and the place in connects on the SC air intake?
And, I may decide to drain them back into the oil pan, even Lake Speed says no big deal on that (basically he said that all the crap came out of the engine in the first place, so dumping that small amount back into the pan is fine), But, we'd still want a valve on that closed all the time unless I drain it, correct?
Provided you keep it a sealed system and each one of those cans is separate (internally) from the other, that will work. I would highly recommend draining it back to the engine as you'll likely fill those little things up rather quickly if you do more than sane street driving.
[/quote]
That's the plan. Each one will be separate and sealed. Thinking about getting bigger ones, but, just a hassle to find mounting locations.
Sorry to bump an old thread but I have a Saikou Michi Dual Oil Catch Can that I need to install. I understand the standard way to setup is like I quoted above. But I'm thinking of having the outlet connection from both Catch Cans route to a 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8" brass tee-connector that connects to the Intake hose. The reason I'd prefer this is it'd be one less hose that needs to be routed back to the intake manifold. My only concern is that there wouldn't be adequate vacuum (particularly for the PCV side of the catch can)?
Originally Posted by papdoc
I was very fond of the closed loop setups, BUT the PCV hose "produces" about 500ml of oil in every track session. The Saikou Michi wasn't even big enough to cope with this amount of oil, and I removed it immediately. The closed loop setups were great for street driving, but in the track it was really annoying to drain the OCC after every session, so I moved to the open loop setup.
I just had RAIN H8R modify my AP2 VC's baffle to eliminate excessive oil from the PCV. Curious to know if all the oil you were catching was due to not having modified the VC baffle?
Sorry to bump an old thread but I have a Saikou Michi Dual Oil Catch Can that I need to install. I understand the standard way to setup is like I quoted above. But I'm thinking of having the outlet connection from both Catch Cans route to a 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8" brass tee-connector that connects to the Intake hose. The reason I'd prefer this is it'd be one less hose that needs to be routed back to the intake manifold. My only concern is that there wouldn't be adequate vacuum (particularly for the PCV side of the catch can)?
I heard back from Saikou Michi and he said this will not work. Something to do with the Tee being pulled in 2 directions (fresh air vs vacuum source). Anyway, I'll just be running the standard setup (without the tee).
My setup:
PCV w/ hose to intake manifold, same as OEM.
Breather tube run across to 'catch can' (empty motul 600 bottle with a hole in the cap and the hose run into it just below the cap) stuck safely infront of the clutch reservoir. I've run the car like this for 3 years without any issues, I 'emptied the catch can once after about a year...it had a miniscule amount of oil in it.
Beats the $300 catch cans from various companies, mine cost me litterally nothing, as I had all of the tubing and the empty bottle just lying around. Then I spent the $300 on slotted rotors and Hawk Blue pads.
01-23-2016, 12:10 PM
, I've got a question for you.
