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Is it typical to Use an AP1 Head and an AP2 Bottom End?

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Old 01-03-2014, 08:58 PM
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Default Is it typical to Use an AP1 Head and an AP2 Bottom End?

So here's my situation, and I hope you guys could shed a little light on it for me?

I've got an 2006 S2000 rolling shell, my first Honda, It doesn't have a motor but I have access (for free) to 2 motors...
The first being an AP1 with a spun bearing, the second is an AP2 motor with a bad head.

So my thoughts were to take the AP1 head and put it on the AP2 bottom end thus netting me a good motor.
I heard this is a typical race set up as you get the displacement from the AP2 and the 9K head from the AP1.
If my understanding correct in that mating the 2 together will be flawless, short of the check engine light for the air ducts that the the head doesn't have? From my understanding all that's needed is a Flash pro to clean that up.

Am I right to say that all the accessories will swap over from the AP1 motor? (brackets and pulleys)

Basically,

My question is what are the differences between the ap1 and AP2 motors that would be an issue when mating the 2 (ap1 head) and the (ap2 bottom end)

Any resources that you guys know of that could point me in the right direction?

Thanks guys.
Old 01-04-2014, 06:08 AM
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there is no real difference between ap1 and ap2 heads, the 06+ heads just dont have the air pump passages, everything else is the same.

ap1 cams are a little bigger than ap2 cams, the ap2 retainers are a better, but if you're doing all that work you'd probably be upgrading those parts anyway.

the ports and such are all the same.
Old 01-04-2014, 08:02 AM
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you still shouldn't rev above 8300 rpms with that set up.
Old 01-04-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by s2000maniac
you still shouldn't rev above 8300 rpms with that set up.
That's Due To The Stroke Of The 2.2 Bottom End right?
Old 01-04-2014, 01:32 PM
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stock ap2 bottom end is ok to 8500... the rods will get mad at you if you take it much past that on a regular basis
Old 01-05-2014, 10:58 PM
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Swap over the valve keepers and retainers from the bad ap2 head to the good ap1 and bolt it down. I have had a stock boosted F22 that I regularly ran to 9k and it lasted about 80k miles, before I scored the cylinders from running to lean. The stock rods are strong, and i'm pretty well convinced it would have lasted much longer. If you want to get a bit more rpm out of the engine (and it will want to rev with the ap1 cams)to be on the safe side, the equivalent f20 piston speed on the f22 is supposed to be 8500rpm.
Old 01-06-2014, 05:12 AM
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I would not take parts from a bad head and put on a good head.. seen people do it and 75% of the time they end up with 2 bad heads. Put some upgraded stuff in it if you do anything.

Also remember if you use an ap1 head on an 06+ up motor the air pump passages wont be blocked off at the intake manifold. You'll need to get an air pump block off plate for the 06+ intake manifold.
Old 01-06-2014, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by wadzii
I would not take parts from a bad head and put on a good head.. seen people do it and 75% of the time they end up with 2 bad heads. Put some upgraded stuff in it if you do anything.

Also remember if you use an ap1 head on an 06+ up motor the air pump passages wont be blocked off at the intake manifold. You'll need to get an air pump block off plate for the 06+ intake manifold.
Of course. I wont be swapping out parts in the heads. I've got a good AP1 head and a Good AP2 Bottom end. I'll be mating them together.
The head will be overhauled and contain upgraded valve springs and retainers.

Based on what you've said, would it be possible to use an AP1 intake and just stick an AP2 throttle body on it instead?
Old 01-06-2014, 06:02 AM
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The 06+ throttle body bolt pattern is different and bigger than the ap1 stuff.

There are several sponsors that sell the block off plates for just a few $. The 06+ intake has the same bosses for the air pump valve/plate its just not got the bolt holes tapped.
Old 01-06-2014, 02:22 PM
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I don’t know what failed on the f22 head to warrant it bad, but if all the retainers and keepers are good after inspection no sense in chucking them, or buy new ones if that makes you feel better, but there is no sense in spending money on arguably less reliable aftermarket replacements if your build wont require it to function properly. Its just not needed if your planning on revving the motor under 9500rpm (which you are) ap2 are beefier then ap1, stout enough to bend valves before cracking retainers, and steel last longer/more reliable (doesn’t prone to crack). The reason why aftermarket titanium is an option is because it’s lighter, and when coupled with using aftermarket cams, the valve spring rate goes up and so does the need to mate the proper retainers/keepers and lighter controls a higher rpm. Are you going to run aftermarket cams? I didn’t see that in your post.

op if you have a 04-05 F22 its the same ap1 design, just bolt on and go. DBW 06+ has the changes mentioned.


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