midnightsunset

I doubt if many of us bought an S2k for the hp and tq. Redlining @ 9k and hearing that sweet music has always been the focal point of
owning this particular car.


The ability to get another 1000-2000 rpms of "musical notes" out of the engine would be very appealing even if power wasn't gained.

Just a thought......

Back S2k

^ yea but if ur going through the trouble of getting that extra 1-2krpms im pretty sure you would like the power to keep climing. Oh and you missed one other thing why we buy this car the handeling. The handeling + 9k = instant smile

S2Kage

Yeah very true. Although with cars like the 370Z coming out with a more powerful engine and around the same weight as us its going to be difficult to stay on top of the game haha so having that extra 1-2k rpms with the mechanical advantage of gearing would be nice. Atleast so i think.

57udl3y

^i think the fact that we're driving around a car thats 9 years old makes it hard to stay on top of the game

midnightsunset

Well, when all else fails to stay ahead of the game you can always go turbo....

Back S2k

screw the game build your car for yourself

zbrewha863

There was an article about a year ago in Honda Tuning w/ a Silverstone that was revving to 10,500, but the shop wouldn't release any info on the top end of the engine.

As with everything NA w/ the S2000, I'm sure Hytech could build this for you, but as with everything Hytech, good luck getting them to find the time to do it.

EDIT: Does anyone have airflow #s for an F20/F22 around 10k, or are you able to approximate them? I wonder if you would need FI or ITBs to flow enough air, or if you could do it with a higher-flowing intake (such as a snorkel design)?

Lukerw51

I'm not sure your goal should be to spin the motor that quickly. It is obviously a huge enterprise getting the engine to breathe way up there - not to mention keeping the motor running trouble-free for a long enough time to justify the enormous cost of the project. I think that the f20c is about as high-strung a motor as there can be that still maintains a degree of reliability.

The load on any reciprocating part is a factor of the rpm^2. This doesn't even include the work that needs to be done in regards to the actual processing and combustion of fuel/air. So, if at 9000 revs the con rods are dealing with an amount of load, at 10500 revs the rods are dealing with 36.1% more load. I'm not sure if the equations for the valve train are as simple, but I'm certain that the relationship of rpm-load is parabolic for everything in the engine.

Titanium isn't that great for valve retainers and the like (unless you plan on replacing them often); the metal doesn't do well with high frictions associated with an intricate cylinder head like the f20c's - 30k miles sounds optimistic, to me. I guess if you were going to build an engine this high strung, you'd be doing regular maintenance quite a bit more often than 30k miles, so it might not matter to you.

Im the end, why bother with such a costly approach to get very few extra ponies a the expense of thousands and thousands of dollars and decreased reliability? You may as well pursue the engine swap or forced induction of your choice, at that price. Why not just get a 4.56 fd and use a touch of tastefully-applied nitrous to make up for the missing torque? That would be much easier on your engine than revving it up so high.

chimmike

or, just nitrous instead of gears altogether

a properly set up 50 shot would be perfectly reliable, and shock the hell out of most people on the street, lol.

redap186

hey im runin a 50 shot zex dry kit. =D n dam it kicks in hard lol... im also runin alot of other stuff 2 like intake,headers,testpipe,retune ecu, 6puck clutch n flywheel, swaybars, drilled n sloted rotors, n brake pads