What else should I change while I have the head off for a head gasket replacement?
#1
What else should I change while I have the head off for a head gasket replacement?
Hello, please show mercy as this is my first post, and I could not find the answer with the search function - hopefully I didn't screw that up.
I have a n/a 2002 S2000 that I plan to track much more in the coming months. I plan to stay n/a, but might one day go to aftermarket cams/ECU. I want to keep it as reliable/cheap/OEM as possible internally for now. I have already installed SuperTech valve springs/retainers, a baffled oil pan, 04-05 oil jet banjo bolts, and an AP2 valve cover/aftermarket catch can in an effort to reinforce the known weaknesses.
My head gasket and timing chain cover are leaking and both will need to be replaced/re-sealed in the near future (definitely before my next track day). Obviously, it takes a lot of time and effort to get that far in there, and I am wondering what else I should replace while I'm at it.
Below is a list of things I'm planning to do related to the cylinder head removal:
- remove and replace head gasket (planning on Spoon Sports head gasket)
- remove and replace head studs (planning on ARP or OEM - up for debate)
- remove and replace intake/exhaust manifold gaskets (planning on Hondata, might do the whole exhaust manifold if $$$ lines up)
- remove and replace timing chain, guides, and any other associated parts with the typical timing chain service (OEM - What parts am I missing here?)
- reset timing chain tensioner (aftermarket Ballade Sports TCT)
- reseal timing cover and complete oil change with full synthetic 5W-40 and OEM oil filter
- remove and replace water pump and thermostat (OEM - I know the water pump is external, but is it smart to do this with the timing chain?)
And some other things I'm doing at the same time just for reference:
- remove and replace starter (OEM - separate issue not related to head removal)
- remove and replace serpentine belt tensioner (OEM - separate issue not related to head removal)
- remove and replace radiator, hoses, and stays (Jackson Racing oil/water - separate issue not related to head removal)
- remove and replace differential mounts (Innovative billet 95A - separate issue not related to head removal)
Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there with easy access to everything? Or should I remove anything from the list that's overkill?
Thanks in advance everyone! I really appreciate this community and the wisdom/experience available here!
I have a n/a 2002 S2000 that I plan to track much more in the coming months. I plan to stay n/a, but might one day go to aftermarket cams/ECU. I want to keep it as reliable/cheap/OEM as possible internally for now. I have already installed SuperTech valve springs/retainers, a baffled oil pan, 04-05 oil jet banjo bolts, and an AP2 valve cover/aftermarket catch can in an effort to reinforce the known weaknesses.
My head gasket and timing chain cover are leaking and both will need to be replaced/re-sealed in the near future (definitely before my next track day). Obviously, it takes a lot of time and effort to get that far in there, and I am wondering what else I should replace while I'm at it.
Below is a list of things I'm planning to do related to the cylinder head removal:
- remove and replace head gasket (planning on Spoon Sports head gasket)
- remove and replace head studs (planning on ARP or OEM - up for debate)
- remove and replace intake/exhaust manifold gaskets (planning on Hondata, might do the whole exhaust manifold if $$$ lines up)
- remove and replace timing chain, guides, and any other associated parts with the typical timing chain service (OEM - What parts am I missing here?)
- reset timing chain tensioner (aftermarket Ballade Sports TCT)
- reseal timing cover and complete oil change with full synthetic 5W-40 and OEM oil filter
- remove and replace water pump and thermostat (OEM - I know the water pump is external, but is it smart to do this with the timing chain?)
And some other things I'm doing at the same time just for reference:
- remove and replace starter (OEM - separate issue not related to head removal)
- remove and replace serpentine belt tensioner (OEM - separate issue not related to head removal)
- remove and replace radiator, hoses, and stays (Jackson Racing oil/water - separate issue not related to head removal)
- remove and replace differential mounts (Innovative billet 95A - separate issue not related to head removal)
Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there with easy access to everything? Or should I remove anything from the list that's overkill?
Thanks in advance everyone! I really appreciate this community and the wisdom/experience available here!
#2
Feel for you bud this forum was so good years back but FB has killed it.
Im the same as you I have taken the rocker cover of and all the other pipes etc of and ready to start to take the rest apart but needing help where to turn is a problem.
hope some body gets in touch.
Im the same as you I have taken the rocker cover of and all the other pipes etc of and ready to start to take the rest apart but needing help where to turn is a problem.
hope some body gets in touch.
#5
Posts here indicate the OEM valve train parts, springs (etc) are better than the "Supertech" variety so you may want to reconsider while the head is off. Same for the timing chain and cams. The little engine is pretty much maxed out for power unless you go to forced induction anyway. Find the Speed Academy BASASS2000 series (their site) and see that even individual throttle bodies didn't add that much power. Intake and exhausts may be limited if you want the car to remain street legal. Billman's "GenX" timing chain tensioner remains the gold standard. It requires a core exchange but your car is down anyway with the head off.
The power obtained on the high power VTEC cam only comes in at 6000 rpm. AKA VTEC Yo! An aftermarket ECU and professional tuning can drop that significantly (mine comes on at 3600 rpm) for more mid-range power increases. Peak power at the top of the rev range is largely unchanged.
-- Chuck
The power obtained on the high power VTEC cam only comes in at 6000 rpm. AKA VTEC Yo! An aftermarket ECU and professional tuning can drop that significantly (mine comes on at 3600 rpm) for more mid-range power increases. Peak power at the top of the rev range is largely unchanged.
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; 11-18-2017 at 05:11 AM.
#6
Well, lesson learned - never use quick reply. I tried to reply to everyone weeks ago, but no dice. Thank you all for the responses. I spun a rod bearing shortly after posting. I am doing a full AP2 swap from a low-mileage car now, and will hopefully be rebuilding the F20 later on.
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