ConeKiller2

[quote=Fokker]MODEL: 2008 Honda S2000

SUSPENSION:

• Penske 8300 DA - 700/600 Front - Hyperco w/helpers, Rear Hyperco w/o helpers; Front - Karcepts spherical upper mounts, Rear - unknown spherical upper mounts
• Karcepts 0.250 Front Sway Bar
• Karcepts 0.095 Rear Sway Bar
• Stock Bushings
• SPC front offset ball joints

WHEELS/TIRES:

• TRM C3 17x9 +62
• BFG Rival S 1.5 255/40/17
• Enkei PF01 SS 17x9 +60
• Bridgestone RE71R 255/40/17

BRAKES:

• OEM Calipers
• SOS SS Brake Lines
• We Don't Lift Formula AutoX pads front & rear

ENGINE:

• K&N FIPK
• Aftermarket Header
• Berk 63.5mm HFC
• Custom Single Exit Exhaust w/Supertrapp muffler
• Radium Catch Can
• Hasport engine and transmission mounts

ECU:

• OEM - Tuned with Hondata Flashpro

SEATS:

• OEM Seats

MISC:

• Raceseng Custom Slammer shift knob
• Renegade Motorsports shifter bushing
• Removable trailer hitch for tire trailer
• Control box for trailer lighting
• OS/Giken LSD

ALIGNMENT:

[list][*]Front: Camber -3.5

Nate Tempest

I don't think you can even get to -2.8° with them installed in that direction, although I could be wrong.

Fokker

At minimum positive camber (nut was fully inboard), they were able to get it to -2.6° and -2.8° on my car.

BoboTheMonkey

They could be moved more, but they must not be completely straight, or turned forwards enough. They were losing too much caster to get any additional camber. They said they could get it higher, but said it was pretty close to where I wanted it unless I wanted them to charge for at least another hour of labor. Might mess around with it more if I think it's necessary.

pat10295

MODEL: 2000 Honda S2000

SUSPENSION:

• Custom Flatout Suspension ST52 Dual Digressive Coilovers
  • 7" 700lb. Front / 8" 600lb. Rear Springs
  • Set 2 Clicks from full soft front/rear as recommended by the sets former owner.
• Karcepts 0.250 Front Sway Bar set at 3/3
• NC Miata Front Sway on Rear
• Innovative Steel 75A Poly Diff Mounts
• Refreshed Hardrace Hard Rubber front LCA bushings.
  • Have to do the front UCA's and rears at some point.
  • I should probably put this car on scales.
• Ballade Sports Motor/Trans Mounts

WHEELS/TIRES:

• Enkei PF01SS 17x9 +60
• Bridgestone RE71R 255/40/17 Square subject to change depending on track events.

BRAKES:

• Project Mu HC+800 F/R
• DeftMotion SS Brake Lines
• Blank Rotors

ENGINE:

• Bone Stock other than AP2 valve retainers and oil banjo bolts

SEATS:

• Stock

MISC:

• Koyo Radiator
• Innovate MTX-D Oil Temp/Pressure Guage
• Elda Engineering (read: Hard Dog) Roll Bar with Bolt-in Single Diagonal and Harness Bar
• Modiction Anvil 2 Shift Knob
• AP2 OEM Front Bumper and Headlights. BaysonR OEM AP2 Replica lip.
• Billman TCT

ALIGNMENT:

• Front: Camber -2.5, Total Toe 0, Caster 6.5ish
• Rear: Camber -2.5, 0.14deg toe in per wheel

HEIGHT/WEIGHT:

• 12.875" all around measured from hub center to fender
• No Idea on Weight
• 
• From last season before the roll bar and stock seat went in.

Boostmaniac

I believe those two things bump you into BSP but most people wouldn't really care.

BoboTheMonkey

I don't think they make the old banjo bolt anymore, so that would be fine. Someone could protest the retainers, but would be a real jerk for doing so. Also, the TCT is not STR legal technically either. They don't offer any performance advantage... I've never been to nationals, so I guess I don't know.

Fokker

Locally, no one will likely care. At a national level, someone will be a real jerk if they're losing; not everyone, but there will be at least one person.

Nate Tempest

I feel like there should be a general rule similar to comfort and convenience for these sorts of reliability mods that couldn't offer any performance increase. Anything that appreciably changes the weight would be out, but stuff like this, or the Porsche IMS fix or that kind of thing could be covered. Although I guess someone could always argue you could push the more reliable engine to higher rpms or something, so I'm sure it would open a giant can of worms.

IntegraR0064

I also want to disagree with this. For me peak hp on the passwordjdm was equalish to the K&N, and I made a pretty good chunk of power low down in the rpm curve where it's super useful. And it obviously saves a bunch of weight which is the biggest thing.