CKit

Sue's front probably looks like that because of lack of alignment. When one of my SPC ball joints shifted positive due to a spin, my front looked like that. The top will tuck in with proper negative camber.

stantaur

Agreed on the lack of alignment hurting the ability to "tuck" the top of the wheel inward. I heard CCW was working with her to get a 5/8" spacer (0.625") which yields 7.875" net of backspacing on a 10" wheel with native 8.5" backspacing. Hoping that this gets her closer to a more normal stance / not having to raise ride height.

I had great luck with CCW on my Z/28's Classic wheels, which bolted up fine once they sent me the proper lug nuts (should have been shipped to me in another package to arrive same day for an ideal customer experience / OOBE).

But it's been umm, a real R&D effort and many phone calls to CCW to get a S2000 setup that fits properly. Surprising since CCW said they had a setup on several S2000s that fit right. We're beta testing for them in many respects until we get an exact setup / backspacing specs / alignment, but that's the purpose of showing all of these pics and sharing the knowledge. My bet is we'll be somewhere between .5 - .6 inches of spacer ( 8.0 - 7.9 net backspacing). Hoping CCW will net out one spacer fee for us once this is all sorted since we're functioning as their R&D arm / beta testers. Wouldn't seem like good "customer experience" to have to pay for multiple spacers to get fabbed / trimmed until we get the right setup.

Best,
Stanford

HvRRZ

I'm curious but why not run with a thinner wheel up front? I'm sure the handling will still be up to par, and it will probably help illiminate some of the issues that arise.

285 rear, and 265 front wouldn't be a bad set up.

blackey

Stanford,

I think the issue is we all have quite different cars. The TCD upper arms really do not allow any more wheel lock, less maybe. I know he fabbed some that had more lock. TCD does not have a CNC any longer, so I'm not sure he can still make them.

I figure the SPC spacers, vs. the TCD arms could be anywhere from 1/2" to an 1" difference of space. I'm fairly certain almost everyone he has done wheels for has the a-arms, as the spacers were not available.

The TCD arms do have a habit of breaking the rod ends. I've never done it, but I've seen two let go. They are wear items, simple as that. You can switch to a 5/8" rod end, but you will lose adjustablity, not that I adjust mine very often.

Bill

FYI at 7 3/8 backspace, my wheels fit inside my fenders... At 7 7/8 (No spacer) they fit really well, but the turning radius is pretty bad.

krazik

you don't lose adjustability w/ the 5/8th heim, you just have to remove an extra nut to adjust them.

Stephenopoly

Most beautiful wheels

blackey

That's what I meant. You have to take apart the upper mount to change the length.

Bill

I also assume the change in suspension length( shortening upper arm vs lengthing lower arm), would change the motion ratio and the subsequent wheel rate.

Spaf

Here's a copy of the useful parts from my post a while ago on SCCAForums...


I run 18x11's front and rear with 285s on the front and 295's on the rear. The 295s are actually a touch narrower but taller, I need the gearing.

My 18x11's have basically a 8.5" backspacing. Same front and rear to keep things simple and interchangeable. In the rear I run ~5mm spacer. In the front I generally run ~10mm of spacer. If you care about hub-centricity get all the wheels with the rear hub bore and have spacers made for the front. The front bore is 70.1mm and the rear is 64.1. Or you can get all the wheels to the front bore and lose rear hub-centricity. Personally, I don't think it makes much difference either way...

For SM2 I'd definitely consider the 315/30/18 in the rear. A 315/30 with a 9300 redline and AP1 tranny puts you at about 73mph in 2nd (~72mph for the 295) which is probably close to right for most typical National style courses. Andy/Erik/JRho would have a better idea than me. You will need to flare ~1" to get the 315 to fit, 285/295s will fit with just rolling and some minor fender-tab/bumper modification depending on the amount of toe you run.

In the front, it just comes down to what compromises you are willing to make. You can not get a 285 on an 18x11 to fit (at low ride heights) and maintain near-full lock without slightly flaring the fenders. By slightly I mean just pushing out the lip ~1/4" so it's no longer vertical. You can do this w/o needing to re-paint and most won't even be able to tell difference. Spring dia. will depend on ride height, camber and caster, although I'd always recommend 2.25" to give you max possible, even if you don't need it.

For BSP I'd generally recommend 18x10.5 F/R as I don't think the extra pain involved with 11s is worth it for most. But for you I think the 315s will be better in the rear, in which case you might as well go for 11s if you're willing to flare.

All of the above is in regard to Hoosier A6s. The 710s are slightly shorter and have less section width. Kumho doesn't have a 295 or 315/30/18, although if/when the 305/30/18 shows up it could make things interesting.

Here's a few pics of my car...




front wheel fitment - notice how the lips are pushed out...


rear wheel fitment

Spaf

Now to follow up on some comments....

Stantaur, with such a small amount of front camber you're going to have fitment issues even with the 10s. FWIW, I run over -3.5 in the front, that's close to .5" more inboard at the top of the tire....

But with 10s and a .575 spacer and ~ -3 should be be ok... The only thing you may still hit is the inner, upper a-arm mount. You'd need to be at fully lock with a fair amount of load (sliding, spinning most likely). If you're running bushings in both arms or heim-joints this may not be a problem...

Once your fender clearance is worked out, your min ride-height will likely be determined by the frame rail in the front.

Andrew Wojteczko

Thanks for the info,

I'm about to order up a set of the C10's, 18*10 with a +64 offset all around, and then run a 7mm spacer up front so I can rotate wheels.
Has anyone tried running 275 35 18? Will it clear the bumper if it is a shaved R888 or similar?

Front fenders are rolled aggressively and inner fender liners modified to make room, and rears are rolled out as well. Currently running 255/40/17 on 17*9 +45 without issue. Based on my calculations the 18*10+57 should sit out just as far as the 17*9+45, however with the plan of being able to use the 285 30 I'm thinking it would be worth while to move the rears in the planned 7mm. Also planning to do 2 piece rotor upgrade all around which will probably add 2-3mm thickness compared to stock rotor fitment.

Alignment is max -camber with front stock arms, -2.2, and rear is at -2.5 camber.

Suspension is Moton Clubsport, 2.25" Spring diameter

Any input/thoughts before I place the order??

Thanks!!

Andrew