Any issues with the latest runs of Canton oil pans?
#12
Community Organizer
Has the pan material changed from the old one? Has the oil capacity changed from the old design?
#13
The install article is interesting...someone spent a lot of effort for a product on a 20-year-old car 10 years out of production.
As I understand it, there the stock S2000 pan is pretty advanced for a street pan. There are several simple baffles. But there are only 2 trap-door baffled alternatives: Moroso's that welds into the stock pan and Canton's. Canton's seems to have a more complete trap-door baffle system but loses the cooling of the finned aluminum pan. It also has ports for an oil temp sensor and a turbo drain back.
The Canton pan looks pretty slick. A dry sump could cost 8x to 12x as much and adds plumbing issues.
As I understand it, there the stock S2000 pan is pretty advanced for a street pan. There are several simple baffles. But there are only 2 trap-door baffled alternatives: Moroso's that welds into the stock pan and Canton's. Canton's seems to have a more complete trap-door baffle system but loses the cooling of the finned aluminum pan. It also has ports for an oil temp sensor and a turbo drain back.
The Canton pan looks pretty slick. A dry sump could cost 8x to 12x as much and adds plumbing issues.
#15
Here's a newer picture...I think of the actual pan MotoIQ has. Notice the holes along the antislosh plate. It will be interesting to see what Mike and the guys at MotoIQ think of it. I respect them, and Mike is a good writer as well.
#16
There is no reason to upgrade the pan on these cars or add a baffle/anti-slosh plate. The sump is so low that it's basically kissing the bottom of the pan. As long as you have proper oil levels you won't have an issue even on ultra sticky tires.
You are opening up yourself up to leaks and other issues with the Canton pan. You are potentially risking your motor with an anti slosh plate. Our motors run at very high PSI and they can inhibit oil flow back to the sump. Honda designed this car to go on the track albeit not with Hoosiers, the car handles them just fine.
Here is a video from testing today at Summit Point. The gauges are Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Water temp, in that order. The red warning light is setup to flash if the oil pressure drops below 20psi, (which it does at warm idle). Notice the oil pressure fluctuates slightly but stays 80psi + everywhere, even on the long right hand sweeping T10 at Summit. I check oil every session and have done so for 3 seasons on this and have no issues to speak of. The car is on Hoosier R7s. Factory pan with Mishimoto Oil Cooler.
You are opening up yourself up to leaks and other issues with the Canton pan. You are potentially risking your motor with an anti slosh plate. Our motors run at very high PSI and they can inhibit oil flow back to the sump. Honda designed this car to go on the track albeit not with Hoosiers, the car handles them just fine.
Here is a video from testing today at Summit Point. The gauges are Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Water temp, in that order. The red warning light is setup to flash if the oil pressure drops below 20psi, (which it does at warm idle). Notice the oil pressure fluctuates slightly but stays 80psi + everywhere, even on the long right hand sweeping T10 at Summit. I check oil every session and have done so for 3 seasons on this and have no issues to speak of. The car is on Hoosier R7s. Factory pan with Mishimoto Oil Cooler.
#17
There is no reason to upgrade the pan on these cars or add a baffle/anti-slosh plate. The sump is so low that it's basically kissing the bottom of the pan. As long as you have proper oil levels you won't have an issue even on ultra sticky tires.
You are opening up yourself up to leaks and other issues with the Canton pan. You are potentially risking your motor with an anti slosh plate. Our motors run at very high PSI and they can inhibit oil flow back to the sump. Honda designed this car to go on the track albeit not with Hoosiers, the car handles them just fine.
Here is a video from testing today at Summit Point. The gauges are Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Water temp, in that order. The red warning light is setup to flash if the oil pressure drops below 20psi, (which it does at warm idle). Notice the oil pressure fluctuates slightly but stays 80psi + everywhere, even on the long right hand sweeping T10 at Summit. I check oil every session and have done so for 3 seasons on this and have no issues to speak of. The car is on Hoosier R7s. Factory pan with Mishimoto Oil Cooler.
You are opening up yourself up to leaks and other issues with the Canton pan. You are potentially risking your motor with an anti slosh plate. Our motors run at very high PSI and they can inhibit oil flow back to the sump. Honda designed this car to go on the track albeit not with Hoosiers, the car handles them just fine.
Here is a video from testing today at Summit Point. The gauges are Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Water temp, in that order. The red warning light is setup to flash if the oil pressure drops below 20psi, (which it does at warm idle). Notice the oil pressure fluctuates slightly but stays 80psi + everywhere, even on the long right hand sweeping T10 at Summit. I check oil every session and have done so for 3 seasons on this and have no issues to speak of. The car is on Hoosier R7s. Factory pan with Mishimoto Oil Cooler.
#18
The oil pressure is remote mounted. Oil pressure stays steady at high rpm and under load. I also have a the 20psi warning pressure switch remote mounted.
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