Ballade Oil Baffle
#11
Thread Starter
Here is another spot that managed to flatten the baffle.
Lets be real, if I knew what I know now I wouldn't have bought the baffle two years ago and I wouldn't have what is essentially a $3k paperweight. I saw nothing about this before, so I posted it.
Finding metal particles in the oil shouldn't be normal. I don't know if it is the baffle or something else. I don't see anyone reporting a similar problem. The Ballade has some popularity because it doesn't require welding.
However, there are lots of wet sump baffles that are welded in, the Moroso baffle with 2 trap doors, and the Canton pan with 4 trap doors and ports for an oil temp sensor and turbo drain back. Blacktrax sells its baffle welded into a new pan avoiding any issues with welding on an old aluminum casting that has been sitting in contaminated oil for 15 years and gone through thousands of heat cycles. The Canton is a complete, new sheet metal oil pan. The baffles are less than the cost of a tire; the complete pan the cost of a set of tires.
Metal flakes in the oil are not something you want to be worrying about and a damaged engine is not something you want to be spending your time and money on while missing track days.
This is from another thread:
However, there are lots of wet sump baffles that are welded in, the Moroso baffle with 2 trap doors, and the Canton pan with 4 trap doors and ports for an oil temp sensor and turbo drain back. Blacktrax sells its baffle welded into a new pan avoiding any issues with welding on an old aluminum casting that has been sitting in contaminated oil for 15 years and gone through thousands of heat cycles. The Canton is a complete, new sheet metal oil pan. The baffles are less than the cost of a tire; the complete pan the cost of a set of tires.
Metal flakes in the oil are not something you want to be worrying about and a damaged engine is not something you want to be spending your time and money on while missing track days.
This is from another thread:
Last edited by Chibo; 02-24-2019 at 09:36 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Chibo:
lookstoomuch (02-25-2019),
s2000ellier (02-24-2019)
#12
Been running mine for two seasons now, just looked at my last UOA and guess what elevated aluminum. It had been normal prior but spiked at 12 ppm last time. I figured u would give it one more UOA then see, but now I will be dropping the pan.
I just don’t understand how they could be so careless in designing something meant to reduce engine wear and actually maybe cause wear.
I just don’t understand how they could be so careless in designing something meant to reduce engine wear and actually maybe cause wear.
#13
Thread Starter
I UOA'd my first oil change after the pan also because the amount of glitter in the oil had me thinking the motor was about to pop. Elevated aluminum for me too.
I have since changed the oil three times and kept the oil in UOA bottles but not sent it in. The motor may be fine, but a history of having aluminum run through it makes it effectively worth nothing.
I have since changed the oil three times and kept the oil in UOA bottles but not sent it in. The motor may be fine, but a history of having aluminum run through it makes it effectively worth nothing.
#14
Any thoughts as to if this would eventually just wear to a point where it will essentially fix itself? IOW, maybe since I have been running it for two years I just say screw it and keep running it.
#15
Thread Starter
I'm not sure, I need my car together for points so I don't have time to order a Moroso and have it welded before putting it back together. I ended up trimming the rear with tin snips as I have to believe it was still wearing into the pan. I think the sides may not be a big deal since they didn't push through to the cast grain structure like the rear, but I did trim off the part that was clearly bent up by pan contact.
The issue with the rear is that it was made too long to have a sharp cut aluminum edge. The edge allows it to dig into the cast aluminum pan, unlike the sides that are basically flat-on-flat. I think they could get away with their rear length/edge if the baffle was meant to be welded in.
The issue with the rear is that it was made too long to have a sharp cut aluminum edge. The edge allows it to dig into the cast aluminum pan, unlike the sides that are basically flat-on-flat. I think they could get away with their rear length/edge if the baffle was meant to be welded in.
Last edited by Chibo; 02-24-2019 at 11:01 AM.
#16
Community Organizer
THAT SUCKS.
I feel bad for you but props for posting this for others.
I feel bad for you but props for posting this for others.
#17
Thought about one of these
#18
The Blacktrack Performance baffled pan is a known quantity, i.e. safe bet.
Oil pressure data here from full-on race car:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...affle-1090728/
Oil pressure data here from full-on race car:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...affle-1090728/
#19
I strongly recommend a moroso weld-in, ive documented my reasoning a few times in this forum. Hands down best pan baffle option, backed by (real) data from many S2K Challenge drivers.
If you're time-crunched, reach out to rockstar, they can probably source a donor pan and do a core-trade or something to keep you up and running.
If you're time-crunched, reach out to rockstar, they can probably source a donor pan and do a core-trade or something to keep you up and running.
#20
I've had the Blacktrax pan for something around 6-7 years, no issues whatsoever. Never seen a drop in oil pressure while on track. The only time I could think of maybe needing more protection is stepping up to hoosier tires.
I have the EVS bolt in oil pan baffle from Evasive and it has been good so far. I have not seen any aluminum in the oil, but I have not had it tested.
Last edited by exigex; 03-04-2019 at 04:05 PM.