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Ballade Oil Baffle

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Old 03-07-2019, 08:52 AM
  #21  

 
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Since this looks like it bolts in before the pan goes on, why not clay the baffle? We always had to hand finish our crank scrapers on our drag engines after claying and I would do the same with a bolt in pan baffle.

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Old 03-07-2019, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rrounds
Since this looks like it bolts in before the pan goes on, why not clay the baffle? We always had to hand finish our crank scrapers on our drag engines after claying and I would do the same with a bolt in pan baffle.

Rod
Weren't those scrapers cut to closely follow the outline of the crank throws and rods?

On a separate note, a technically savvy poster who runs NASA TT5 competitively with Hoosier tires runs without any baffle and thinks it is unnecessary if the oil level is adequate. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra.../#post24570205
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Old 03-08-2019, 04:31 PM
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If you never drive on tracks with high banking like Daytona or Homestead, sure.
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Old 03-09-2019, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Weren't those scrapers cut to closely follow the outline of the crank throws and rods?

On a separate note, a technically savvy poster who runs NASA TT5 competitively with Hoosier tires runs without any baffle and thinks it is unnecessary if the oil level is adequate. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra.../#post24570205
Another technically savy poster who ran in the now defunct TTC class has blown up 3 motors running at Summit Point and similar tracks in the region...

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...-sale-1029789/
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Old 03-09-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullwings
Another technically savy poster who ran in the now defunct TTC class has blown up 3 motors running at Summit Point and similar tracks in the region...

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...-sale-1029789/
@Sickdayracing "There is no reason to upgrade the pan on these cars or add a baffle/anti-slosh plate. The sump is so low that it's basically kissing the bottom of the pan. As long as you have proper oil levels you won't have an issue even on ultra sticky tires." https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showpost...5&postcount=16

From that thread, which had lots of conversation about brands of synthetic oil:

@robrob " I never let the oil level go below the half mark so I don't know what happened. " https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra.../#post22635290

I think the answer may be there...

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Old 03-09-2019, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullwings
Another technically savy poster who ran in the now defunct TTC class has blown up 3 motors running at Summit Point and similar tracks in the region...

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...-sale-1029789/
If you are talking about Rob Robinette’s car, I purchased it from him with a blown engine. It had a new Honda short block that spun a bearing with around 10hrs as per Rob when I bought it from him. On tear down, it had a anti-slosh plate with cracks in most of the welds. Rob is a fast driver who ran without an oil cooler which contributes to high temps and was running the slosh plate which I and many other believe inhibit flow back to the pick up. The plate also had cracks in the welds at only 10hrs so that could’ve contributed to FOD in the oil system. Additionally, these motors burn a lot more oil when new so no telling what the oil levels were at the point of failure. Two of my friends run the same setup with me in the same class on sticky tires; no issues to report with the stock pan, consistently checked oil levels, and an oil cooler.
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Old 03-11-2019, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidNJ
Weren't those scrapers cut to closely follow the outline of the crank throws and rods?

On a separate note, a technically savvy poster who runs NASA TT5 competitively with Hoosier tires runs without any baffle and thinks it is unnecessary if the oil level is adequate. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra.../#post24570205
Yes they do, we ran 0.012 clearance on our SBC. It cut down on airation at high rpm's that lead to higher hp on the dyno.

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Old 04-24-2019, 12:30 PM
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I pulled my oil pan which had one of these baffles installed. There was some damage to the pan but not near as significant as Chibo. I'll be pulling this thing out and on the fence whether I'll be putting in the weld in pan from Blacktrax or just keep an eye on oil levels. I'm running 200TW tires and I'm kinda slow anyway so probably not a necessary safeguard.

Also hoping someone can share what needs to be put back into to the bolt locations where the Ballade one mounts. I'm 100% certain I saved these bolts somwhere but having trouble locating them....
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Chibo
There is associated wear on the baffle panel, but this is what the pan looks like. It has been dumping the aluminum into the oil the entire time, yet has not caused a failure. My oil changes all started looking like the last image since I put the baffle in, but I was not 100% sure it was the baffle until I pulled the pan for something unrelated today.
Just wanted to say thanks to Chibo for sharing.
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Old 01-16-2020, 09:29 AM
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i spun a bearing this past spring (unrelated it was a failed o-ring on the oil filter relocation) i saw this post so made a mental note to check mine out for signs of the same wear. i have none. no interference anywhere, no scrape marks, nothing that looked bad, no bolts loosened up or anything to make me worry. i installed it on the replacement engine and ran it all season with no issues thus far. i was on of the first to buy it but didnt get around to installing it for the start of the 2019 season. its not a super trap door design or overly baffled or really seem to inhibit flow back into the sump area. honestly it basically reminds me of like a stock d-series or moroso pan for the d/b's and im sure many more

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