brake pad operation temperatures vs rotor temps
03-12-2013, 03:15 PM
#1
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brake pad operation temperatures vs rotor temps
Hi guys,
appologies if this information is elsewhere.. I couldn't find it.
I need new brake pads for track work. I'm pretty happy with going with some form of Carbotech pads but just trying to figure out compound.
I know the operating temperature ranges of their pads and I know what rotor temps I was pulling at the end of a session (after cooldown lap and after parked in the pits).
What I'm wondering is if anyone has experience with how hot the pad gets vs the rotor and therefore what pad operating temps I may have gotten up to?
I measured rear rotor temps of 440C and about 350C front on a short track (~45sec) with 3 stops from ~120->60 (kmh) and one from about 80->40 (kmh).
I run RComps and will be adding brake ducting before whatever chosen pads are used.
Basically at the end of the day I'm trying to workout if I am likely to overheat XP8 at the rear or if I should use XP10 at the rear.
thanks for any advice!
appologies if this information is elsewhere.. I couldn't find it.
I need new brake pads for track work. I'm pretty happy with going with some form of Carbotech pads but just trying to figure out compound.
I know the operating temperature ranges of their pads and I know what rotor temps I was pulling at the end of a session (after cooldown lap and after parked in the pits).
What I'm wondering is if anyone has experience with how hot the pad gets vs the rotor and therefore what pad operating temps I may have gotten up to?
I measured rear rotor temps of 440C and about 350C front on a short track (~45sec) with 3 stops from ~120->60 (kmh) and one from about 80->40 (kmh).
I run RComps and will be adding brake ducting before whatever chosen pads are used.
Basically at the end of the day I'm trying to workout if I am likely to overheat XP8 at the rear or if I should use XP10 at the rear.
thanks for any advice!
03-12-2013, 04:52 PM
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Sorry, I'm in need of front and read as I've never bought actual track pads before - I've only done one track day in my s2k so far but I'm a regular at hillclimbs and motorkhanas that don't heat up the brakes at all.
I last had EBC Red-Stuff front and rear but began to melt them within two sessions on track.
I was planning on getting some combination of XP8/10/12 with the front's either the same compound or one step up from the rears. I'm not overly concerned about the operating temps at the front though as it copes with the heat much better than the rears. Hence asking the question. Figure out what pad is going to suit me in the rear and then go from there - Hopefully that makes some sense?
I'm leaning towards xp12/10 or maybe XP12 front and rear. However I assume with 12/10 instead of 10/8 I really should be changing pads at the track... which is doable but a pain.
Or of course if there is a better pad recommendation - however I know lots of people have their own favourite pad and that's that.
I last had EBC Red-Stuff front and rear but began to melt them within two sessions on track.
I was planning on getting some combination of XP8/10/12 with the front's either the same compound or one step up from the rears. I'm not overly concerned about the operating temps at the front though as it copes with the heat much better than the rears. Hence asking the question. Figure out what pad is going to suit me in the rear and then go from there - Hopefully that makes some sense?
I'm leaning towards xp12/10 or maybe XP12 front and rear. However I assume with 12/10 instead of 10/8 I really should be changing pads at the track... which is doable but a pain.
Or of course if there is a better pad recommendation - however I know lots of people have their own favourite pad and that's that.
03-12-2013, 05:39 PM
#4
Since you've never used race pads before, the Carbotechs are a good place to start. They're compressible and are easy to acclimate to. They won't have the bite of metallic race pads, but at this point, the metallic race pads will feel very on-off to you until you get used to it.
Unless you have REALLY heavy braking zones, I'd start with XP10/XP8, or XP10/XP10, depending on how you like the car to behave under braking.
Unless you have REALLY heavy braking zones, I'd start with XP10/XP8, or XP10/XP10, depending on how you like the car to behave under braking.
03-12-2013, 07:42 PM
#5
How are you measuring your brake temps? The only proper way to do it is with thermal paint/stickers on the rotors. Using an infared gun in the pits after a hot lap doesn't tell you the entire story.
I've tried XP12's, 10's and 8's in the past. Unless you're dead-set on using Carbotech's, from personal experience, try running a set of Performance Friction PFC97's instead,both front and back. They are an endurance pad, and will last significantly longer than the XP's. They also modulate extremely well, and are very easy on rotors. They should be easier to find in Australia as well. Fronts typically cost around $220, while rears are around $135 USD. When installed, use some temperature paint on the rotors to check that you are within the optimum operating temperature range as recommended by PFC. Oh, and one more beautiful thing about these pads... No special bedding required. Slap em on, do a couple laps at moderate speed, bring back to pits to cool and you're ready to rock.
I've tried XP12's, 10's and 8's in the past. Unless you're dead-set on using Carbotech's, from personal experience, try running a set of Performance Friction PFC97's instead,both front and back. They are an endurance pad, and will last significantly longer than the XP's. They also modulate extremely well, and are very easy on rotors. They should be easier to find in Australia as well. Fronts typically cost around $220, while rears are around $135 USD. When installed, use some temperature paint on the rotors to check that you are within the optimum operating temperature range as recommended by PFC. Oh, and one more beautiful thing about these pads... No special bedding required. Slap em on, do a couple laps at moderate speed, bring back to pits to cool and you're ready to rock.
03-14-2013, 05:06 PM
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In the end I've gone with XP12/10 combo. I don't mind if I loose a bit more rotor and I wasn't convinced that XP8 would be enough for the rear end of my car.
As for other brands of pad, I thought about it but found a good deal on Carbotech. Also since it's my first lot more people seem to use them and I may as well give them a go. It was also hard enough to make a choice between 3 compounds let alone between different brands...
I've also ordered SS lines and will be sorting out ducting and hopefully some temperature paint/stickers.
All of this should fix my issues with braking at the moment =). I might move to a BBK once these pads/rotors are gone.
thanks for the advice, I'll let people know how it goes...
As for other brands of pad, I thought about it but found a good deal on Carbotech. Also since it's my first lot more people seem to use them and I may as well give them a go. It was also hard enough to make a choice between 3 compounds let alone between different brands...
I've also ordered SS lines and will be sorting out ducting and hopefully some temperature paint/stickers.
All of this should fix my issues with braking at the moment =). I might move to a BBK once these pads/rotors are gone.
thanks for the advice, I'll let people know how it goes...
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03-14-2013, 06:50 PM
#8
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Keep in mind you will have to bleed your brakes multiple times to get all the air out of the system after a line replacement. You will have a soft pedal unless you bleed a lot. If you do a track day plan to bleed between sessions. It's the only way to get a really firm pedal after a line swap.
You probably won't be impressed with your new brake pads because of the soft pedal. I think the main reason for this is air gets into the ABS system and sits there until the ABS pump comes on and injects into your freshly bled lines.
You probably won't be impressed with your new brake pads because of the soft pedal. I think the main reason for this is air gets into the ABS system and sits there until the ABS pump comes on and injects into your freshly bled lines.
03-14-2013, 10:32 PM
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Keep in mind you will have to bleed your brakes multiple times to get all the air out of the system after a line replacement. You will have a soft pedal unless you bleed a lot. If you do a track day plan to bleed between sessions. It's the only way to get a really firm pedal after a line swap.
You probably won't be impressed with your new brake pads because of the soft pedal. I think the main reason for this is air gets into the ABS system and sits there until the ABS pump comes on and injects into your freshly bled lines.
You probably won't be impressed with your new brake pads because of the soft pedal. I think the main reason for this is air gets into the ABS system and sits there until the ABS pump comes on and injects into your freshly bled lines.
interdasting, no wonder my brakes are mushy.
03-15-2013, 02:32 AM
#10
Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1363315834' post='22404902
Keep in mind you will have to bleed your brakes multiple times to get all the air out of the system after a line replacement. You will have a soft pedal unless you bleed a lot. If you do a track day plan to bleed between sessions. It's the only way to get a really firm pedal after a line swap.
You probably won't be impressed with your new brake pads because of the soft pedal. I think the main reason for this is air gets into the ABS system and sits there until the ABS pump comes on and injects into your freshly bled lines.
You probably won't be impressed with your new brake pads because of the soft pedal. I think the main reason for this is air gets into the ABS system and sits there until the ABS pump comes on and injects into your freshly bled lines.
interdasting, no wonder my brakes are mushy.