auric

AP2 driven to track:
- stock wheels on RS4's with HKS coilovers
- ducted front and rears
I'm destroying my front brake pads:
- I've had one set of ProjectMu Club Racer pads delaminate (in-spite of having ~ 5 mm of meat on them)
- I terminated a track day early yesterday due to DTC60's crumbling after ONLY 16 laps...

Thinking about maybe trying the DTC70's but seeing as to how poorly the DTC60's held up not sure I want to even bother.
- any advice on any other pads?

I know some of you guys will recommend BBK but I'm trying avoid the cost of the BBK and what I suspect wheels needed to clear said BBK.
- are there any that clear stock wheels?

Chibo

It sounds like you must have a stuck piston in a front caliper or something.
Destroying pads like that is not normal, especially on street tires with ducting.

auric

Calipers looked fine when I swapped the pads last weekend:
- I'll take a look at them once I decided what directions to take:
- Brakes don't squeek though and doesnt pull to one side when car is driven
- Drove back home from track ~ 100 miles without issue,

Would a stuck caliper not be noticeable?

auric

- The clubs delaminated @ about half depth with about ~ 16 twenty minute sessions or so.
- The DTC's as I stated above
- This was @ HPR and I was hitting 117 on the long straight before decelerating into high 60/70 mph to apex C4
- Perhaps I need to re-examine my ducting, I currently get air from bottom of car not from the front "fog lamp" area of the front bumper
- this solution has been adequate in the past, but I have been improving and perhaps no longer adequate...

gtracer

I have DTC-60 fronts and HPS-R (Street race) rear and I have done over 6x 30min racing sessions without an issue. Track is moderate on brake. I have 2.5" ducts all around. Car weighs about 2500lbs. Hoosier R7 in 225.

As Chibo mentioned, I think you may have an underlying issue here unless your track is super hard on brakes and you have slicks and issues with your brake ducts but still. DTC-60 should handle the heat.

Chibo

I removed my previous post with my DTC-60 life because the contents didn't really matter.

Anyhow, I would go find an IR gun, do a few heavy stops to get everything hot, and measure each rotor. What rear pads are you running? It is possible they are not pulling their weight and shifting everything up front.
Also, post a picture of your front and rear rotors. (looking for pad smearing)

auric

I agree and I don't think the caliper is stuck
- to add on both pads the paint was "blistered"
- given both sides were really hot, I"m thinking that I need to re-asses my ducting.

auric

I use an IR gun at the track:
- rears after a cool off lap are ~ 300-400 F
- fronts ~ 500-600F if I was really pushing the car
- fronts ~ if taking it easier on the brakes 300-500F (depending on ambient temps)
- Left/Right close enough (maybe 50 F off)

Chibo

The paint always blisters off pads when tracked, so I wouldn't really take that as too much of a sign.
If your front and rear temps were taken at the same time that is the inverse of the normal temperature gradient I've seen on cars with stock rear rotors, normally the rear is much hotter than the front.

DanielB

I have 2.5" ducting and ran with DTC60s at HPR on stock rotors and never had a problem with the pads crumbling. I did get fade, especially braking into 8 and 13. Definitely check your ducting.

FYI, you are correct that stock wheels go away when you add BBK. I just swapped to the SBG Wilwood kit and had to buy new street wheels - I chose track wheels with a BBK in mind so didn't have an issue with them. Even though it was expensive, I think it was worth it. My confidence really went up. I took nearly 2 seconds off my PB first time out with the new brakes.

BTW, is this Fernando?