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Brake Pad Recommendations (fronts)?

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Old 06-08-2018, 04:35 PM
  #11  

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auric's Avatar
 
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yah, it's me.
- Finally decided to trust the car and myself
- Knocked off 6 seconds off my previous PB
- I hit multiple 2:10's and I know there is more time to be had on the stagger setup
- Brakes were toast coming up C8 and went 4 off after hitting two 2:10 lap times in row
Old 06-08-2018, 05:41 PM
  #12  

 
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I know brake threads can be like oil threads but, I was eating GLoc r10, r8 on a similar staggered setup w/RS4s Switched to Raybestos st43 and was amazed. I then proceeded to crack a rotor within 1.5 track days. Guessing it was a bad rotor however and I do not have any ducting either.

Measured the pads after 3 track days and less than 1 millimeter was lost. I've never run the DTC 60 so cannot compare to those.
Old 06-08-2018, 06:16 PM
  #13  
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Winmax W5
Old 06-08-2018, 08:56 PM
  #14  

 
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Which rotor are you using? Did you check if the brake ducts are blocked or not venting into the rotor?
Old 06-09-2018, 04:28 AM
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I think you said that you didn't want to cut the front bumper cover, so placed the inlets below? Perhaps there's less airflow there vs. the more traditional inlets cut into the bumper cover.

You and I run similar times and I was at the limit of (actually a bit over) the thermal capacity of the stock rotors, even when ducted. I think part of the issue is the track is around 5k ft elevation and the thinner air doesn't help cooling. But to be clear, I never had an issue with the DTC60 pads crumbling, just some fade and an occasional off at 8
Old 06-09-2018, 04:49 AM
  #16  

 
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Can you post a pic of where you mounted the flange on your dust Shield?

When you take temps again, try and take some with the inside and outside face of the rotor.
Old 06-09-2018, 05:48 AM
  #17  

 
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Crumbling of Club Racers are more common than not. They are not a popular option for this reason. Haven't heard of DTC-60 crumbling when hot. Are you running blanks or drilled/slotted rotors?
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