Carbotech up front Stock in the rear?
07-24-2009, 12:24 PM
#21
Former Moderator
Originally Posted by 600rr_rocket,Jul 24 2009, 01:10 PM
Yup...not the best trackday I've ever had. 
Hopefully many people will read this thread and learn from my lesson.
I used to use the 3/8" to do my rears, but after so many pads changes, the metal corners facing the center of the piston warped and I couldn't use it anymore. That's when I went to Autozone and bought this for ~$7,
Hopefully many people will read this thread and learn from my lesson.I used to use the 3/8" to do my rears, but after so many pads changes, the metal corners facing the center of the piston warped and I couldn't use it anymore. That's when I went to Autozone and bought this for ~$7,
07-24-2009, 12:50 PM
#22
FWIW, I've tracked on OEM pads, and though not ideal, I am able to get multiple track days out of them.
That said, XP10 fronts with OEM rears isn't something I'd try.
I'd take VitaRenovatio up on his offer of used XP8s a few posts up^
Regarding bias, I've done ~3 or so events with no ABS, and the bias is definitely to the front on my '01. I.e., fronts lock up well before the rears. Which is good...
That said, XP10 fronts with OEM rears isn't something I'd try.
I'd take VitaRenovatio up on his offer of used XP8s a few posts up^
Regarding bias, I've done ~3 or so events with no ABS, and the bias is definitely to the front on my '01. I.e., fronts lock up well before the rears. Which is good...
07-24-2009, 12:54 PM
#23
Registered User
Originally Posted by 600rr_rocket,Jul 24 2009, 10:57 AM
I did the exact same thing once. XP10's front and OEMs in the rear and within 2 sessions, I heard a horrible screeching from my rears. The OEMs were completely destroyed and the pistons put deep grooves into the rotors. In summary, I wasted 50% of my trackday fee, OEM rear brakes, and rear rotors in a single morning. Lucky for you, you can learn from my bad experience. Dino, I have a set of brand new rear Cobalt XR5 (comparable to Carbotech XP8) pads that I recently purchased from Mark (colakitty). I still have some meat on my current rears so I won't need them for the 8/2 event. I can bring the Cobalt's + a piston retractor tool for you on 8/2 if you want. Unfortunately my impact driver wrench just died so we would have to borrow one of those from someone. Let me know!!!
I would think with agressive fronts, the rears wouldn't be an issue, just a bias issue with more front torque than rear = understeer and stable.
07-24-2009, 01:14 PM
#25
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
10 Posts
What I did notice is that the rear rotors are not vented, so that even though they're not contributing more than 1/3 to the overall braking, they can heat up just as hot if not hotter than the fronts.
07-24-2009, 01:32 PM
#26
Registered User
Originally Posted by 600rr_rocket,Jul 24 2009, 02:07 PM
I don't completely understand the physics or theory behind it...all I know is that I once tried the XP10/OEM combo with similar reasoning (front brakes do most of the work so it shouldn't matter what's on the rears) but the result was not good.Perhaps mikegarrison can shed some light:
07-24-2009, 01:49 PM
#28
Former Moderator
Originally Posted by 600rr_rocket,Jul 24 2009, 02:07 PM
I don't completely understand the physics or theory behind it...all I know is that I once tried the XP10/OEM combo with similar reasoning (front brakes do most of the work so it shouldn't matter what's on the rears) but the result was not good.Perhaps mikegarrison can shed some light:
07-24-2009, 01:57 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: LA/OC
Posts: 1,549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by macr88,Jul 24 2009, 01:49 PM
Haha that was my exact reasoning. Plus the fact that I almost never use my rear brakes on the bike unless the rear needs to step out a bit. I don't have the option of not using rear brakes on the car though and that didn't click untill my rear pads were gone. ooops!
BTW, when you said used the rear brake only when the "rear needs to step out a bit," what does that mean?? Like trying drift or slide the rear?
07-24-2009, 02:17 PM
#30
Former Moderator
Yup, dunlops were great for that but michelins weren't nearly as forgiving. I used the clutch to do this going into turn 3, mazda and sweeper at Buttonwillow. I would use the rear brake mostly when screwing around.