Data logging without aftermarket ECU
06-13-2016, 11:10 AM
#1
Data logging without aftermarket ECU
Question.
I have been thinking of logging coolant temps and other things while on track. I see an ultragauge which displays live data but no logging. I only want to log when i press record but i havent been able to find a device.
Anyone have a cheap suggestion besides stand alone ecu?
I have been thinking of logging coolant temps and other things while on track. I see an ultragauge which displays live data but no logging. I only want to log when i press record but i havent been able to find a device.
Anyone have a cheap suggestion besides stand alone ecu?
06-13-2016, 12:00 PM
#3
06-13-2016, 12:26 PM
#5
There are really cheap chinese plugs available that should work but these might be a bit more reliable
http://www.plxdevices.com/Kiwi-3-OBD...7346002832.htm
https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/...e/obdlink-mxwf
http://www.plxdevices.com/Kiwi-3-OBD...7346002832.htm
https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/...e/obdlink-mxwf
06-13-2016, 04:38 PM
#7
FWIW if your car is an 06+ then you will get excellent performance from most OBD based loggers, remember pre 06+ will only get 1 sample per second and you will only get what the ECU sees.
For coolant temp this is fine (though ive never worried much about coolant temps, if the gauge is normal, then all is good. If its not normal I get out of it).
The stuff that you would really need better than 1hz is pretty much everything else.
TPS if overlaid with accelerometers and GPS can be good but if the accelerometer and arent 10hz+ it will be very inaccurate (more so if you dont have a GPS solution capable of getting you within a foot).
RPM at 1hz is useless. At 8k the engine completes 133 rotations per second. If you are looking for a rough guess, then maybe, but for much else like finding entery/exit speed differences the variance will be too much to make any decent comparisons with.
Battery/IAT/Speed is about all the rest you will get on the standard OBD port.
The data that you really need at 10hz though is oil pressure / temp and the ecu simply doesnt measure that. That is the data that can move quickly enough it can drop mid-corner and return causing engine damage that you wont notice because youre too busy driving. This bit will require passing it through a standalone or right into a logger if you want to collect it.
On a budget I would take a hard look at the race capture pro project:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...it/description
It should be nearing maturity/shipping. The predecessor has been used by hundreds of LeMons teams and they love it.
I used a bunch of android solutions and in the end they always left me frustrated. The reliability / consistency of the data never was good enough, and too often it wouldn't work for some fiddly reason, usually I found out afterwards when I wanted to get something from it.
If there is an option for spending a bit, I am a huge fan of the AIM Solo DL. It can still pull right from the ECU, at whatever rate the ECU can output, the upside is its 100x the predictive / lap timer that any android solution will be. The analysis software is hands down the best ive used and it can be extended to do anything.
For coolant temp this is fine (though ive never worried much about coolant temps, if the gauge is normal, then all is good. If its not normal I get out of it).
The stuff that you would really need better than 1hz is pretty much everything else.
TPS if overlaid with accelerometers and GPS can be good but if the accelerometer and arent 10hz+ it will be very inaccurate (more so if you dont have a GPS solution capable of getting you within a foot).
RPM at 1hz is useless. At 8k the engine completes 133 rotations per second. If you are looking for a rough guess, then maybe, but for much else like finding entery/exit speed differences the variance will be too much to make any decent comparisons with.
Battery/IAT/Speed is about all the rest you will get on the standard OBD port.
The data that you really need at 10hz though is oil pressure / temp and the ecu simply doesnt measure that. That is the data that can move quickly enough it can drop mid-corner and return causing engine damage that you wont notice because youre too busy driving. This bit will require passing it through a standalone or right into a logger if you want to collect it.
On a budget I would take a hard look at the race capture pro project:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...it/description
It should be nearing maturity/shipping. The predecessor has been used by hundreds of LeMons teams and they love it.
I used a bunch of android solutions and in the end they always left me frustrated. The reliability / consistency of the data never was good enough, and too often it wouldn't work for some fiddly reason, usually I found out afterwards when I wanted to get something from it.
If there is an option for spending a bit, I am a huge fan of the AIM Solo DL. It can still pull right from the ECU, at whatever rate the ECU can output, the upside is its 100x the predictive / lap timer that any android solution will be. The analysis software is hands down the best ive used and it can be extended to do anything.
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06-14-2016, 04:19 AM
#8
IIRC, the "normal" range of 7-8 bars on an AP2 is ~180-230F. An AP2 "normal" bar of 3 goes up to 235F.
Thats way hotter than I would ever prefer my motor to get, Honda has the cooling fans come on around 210F, which tells me Honda didn't want the motor getting much hotter than that.
06-14-2016, 09:15 AM
#9
i plan on starting to log with my ipad i hope. I will be looking into the Kiwi adapter. No plans for anymore track this year so i have a long time to play with it.
Time to find a app to play with.
I am curious if i can run a loggin app on my phone with harry in 95+ heat.
Time to find a app to play with.
I am curious if i can run a loggin app on my phone with harry in 95+ heat.
06-14-2016, 10:58 AM
#10
Originally Posted by anorexicpoodle' timestamp='1465864708' post='23992536
For coolant temp this is fine (though ive never worried much about coolant temps, if the gauge is normal, then all is good. If its not normal I get out of it).
IIRC, the "normal" range of 7-8 bars on an AP2 is ~180-230F. An AP2 "normal" bar of 3 goes up to 235F.
Thats way hotter than I would ever prefer my motor to get, Honda has the cooling fans come on around 210F, which tells me Honda didn't want the motor getting much hotter than that.
I dont have any actual visibility into the coolant temp in the car, nor do i really want to know. Just care about good or bad when driving. Ill leave the numbers for when im in the pit.